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1. jere - Member

   I've just received a Quad XPG MCPCB (32mm) and optic that i ordered from cutter but the optic is too small for the MCPCB .... does anyone have quad optic of the right size that i can buy to get me started?

   Also what size wires do i need to use because the holes on the maxflex are tiny? and what amp rating do the cables need to be?

   Also any other top tips would be helpful

   Posted 2 years ago #
2. markyd - Member

   wiring can all be fairly light weight, not much current draw. What optic did you get?

   Posted 2 years ago #
3. jere - Member

   Ok thanks i think i'll have to get some smaller stuff as i only have car wiring cable

   I got the PL115106 Quad but i think i should have got the PL1152xx Quad ...not sure if ordered the wrong one or cutter sent me the wrong one so have emailed them but the drop down option on their website is the same

   Posted 2 years ago #
4. trout - Member

   I have a quad XPG optic spare but dont know which one you mean
   will have a rummage and get a pic of it

   Posted 2 years ago #
5. aracer - Member

   wiring can all be fairly light weight, not much current draw.

   
   First time I've heard 1.5A described as "not much".

   Posted 2 years ago #
6. jere - Member

   Hi Chris i hoped you might be able to help. The board is 32mm diameter and has four holes in it presumably to locate the optic. the cutter code is XPGMR11Q.

   Ah 1.5A is quite a bit, what sort of CSA do the cables need to be then?

   Posted 2 years ago #
7. jere - Member

   Just been reading the maxflex manual and that's the bit i'm dreading the most think it will take a while to understand how to configure it.

   Posted 2 years ago #
8. Vortexracing - Member

   I use the 3amp cables from maplin for all my conversions. It is rated at 3amp at a certain temperature (can't remember what though)

   never been a problem with it and it is more than flexible enough. Which is sometimes a requirement especially if fitting in small housing

   just take your time with the set-up it is quite easy once you get into it.

   Posted 2 years ago #
9. aracer - Member

   Ah 1.5A is quite a bit, what sort of CSA do the cables need to be then?

   
   Well I'm currently using http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=65, but with two of the conductors joined together to make 14 0.2mm strands - (I use that because I have a controller remote from lighting head and it seals reasonably well on grommets). Have also used 16/0.2mm wire. The thing is the holes on a maxflex will only take about 12 strands of that, so you have to cut a couple off, but you still get the benefit of the extra strands for most of the wiring length. I'm sure most people are using 7/0.2mm wire though - fine for short runs with 1A. If you do want to run 1.5A through your LEDs that's not quite up to the job in theory - but you probably only actually want to run at 1A I'd guess.

   I've never understood why George doesn't make the holes on his drivers just a little bigger so you can use unadulterated 16/0.2 wire (maybe nobody's ever suggested it - perhaps I should).

   Posted 2 years ago #
10. Luminous - Member

    I've discussed solder hole sizes with George, in the past. But I appreciate that theres only so much room available on the board.

    That he has managed to squeeze on, an additional GND for the latest MaxFlexs though, is of a greater benefit imo, as people don't then need to create additonal cable splices, etc.

    I don't have an issue with the hole size though and like the MaxFlex the size it is.
    

    L.

    Posted 2 years ago #
11. trout - Member

    This is the one I have spare I am nearly sure it is a PL 115206

    
    

    Posted 2 years ago #
12. aracer - Member

    That he has managed to squeeze on, an additional GND for the latest MaxFlexs though, is of a greater benefit imo, as people don't then need to create additonal cable splices, etc.

    
    With my installations I've never really had a problem with that - both power cables using the holes from one side of the board, the switch coming from the other side of the board, with the ground wire for that soldered onto the two ends of wire sticking out - is a low power connection, so less direct is fine (and keeps the power connections more direct than if you spliced). Personally I'd have voted for very slightly bigger holes - we're only talking ~20% bigger.

    Posted 2 years ago #
13. Luminous - Member

    Splicing is accepted practice. Bit more expensive, but good practice if its required.

    Probably just as important to use good wire, correct size for the holes, etc. But that sort of stuff comes in 50m + lengths, etc, so unless your making lights, then your choice is reduced I suppose.

    

    L.

    Posted 2 years ago #
14. aracer - Member

    What is the correct size wire for the holes? I presume it's something with thinner strands than the normal stuff.

    p.s. I don't suppose you'd be interested in custom Maxflex firmware for your lights?

    Posted 2 years ago #
15. Luminous - Member

    Hhmmm. Always interested to see what others are doing.

    Mail in Profile.

    What is the correct size wire for the holes? I presume it's something with thinner strands than the normal stuff.

    Exactly. As I've been trying to point out about my work. I use good stuff, from Aero/motorsport industry.
    Its expensive and comes only in larger quantities, so I would not execpt a homebrew enthusiast to use it. It just wouldn't be econmical for them.
    Supplier MoQs are a PITA, imo

    Ta

    Luminous.

    Posted 2 years ago #
16. jere - Member

    Hi trout yes that looks like a PL 115206 but got an email back from cutter to say that the optic to fit the board i've got are the GT-XP4 ones so look like i'll just have to wait for one to arrive as they kindly aren't charging me postage. Thank you anyway

    Thanks for the advice on the wire rating i'm going to make trip to maplins tomorrow but will have to waut to get some alumina epoxy anyway so won't have it working for a while.

    One other question i have is how to you hold the optic in place and still make them removable if you have to change them later?

    Posted 2 years ago #
17. jere - Member

    bump

    Posted 1 year ago #

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