My S3 Landy has a puncture in a back wheel.

It’s offroad only but we need it in winter to negotiate our mile long driveway/access road when the snow comes.

Couldn’t shift the wheel nuts. Suspect they haven’t been off for many, many years.

Tried heating them with a gas stove then using a long pole slid over the wheelbrace but no joy. The wheel brace is a poor fit and angled/bent funny so was worried about rounding off the nuts too.

Have ordered a new 27mm socket which may help but any good tips?

Another angle may be – there was an inner tube within the tyre and managed to actually pull it out with the tyre still in place. Is it possible to squeeze a new one in with the wheel still mounted?

Land Rover mechanics rules;
Rule 1 – Use a hammer
Rule 2 – If Rule 1 fails, use a bigger hammer

😉

PlusGas? Shock it with a lump hammer. Longer bit of scaffolding pole with some fat mates jumping on the end?

blow torch

Land Rover mechanics rules;
Rule 1 – Use a hammer
Rule 2 – If Rule 1 fails, use a bigger hammer

All Landrover mechs know that the best tool in the box is the adjustable hammer.

Good spocket, t bar handle, scaff pole on each end. 3 people – one pulling up on one end, one pushing down on the other end and one hitting the end of the socket with a hammer to shock it

27mm? Why not get the proper imperial socket? Make sure the new socket is flat-drive, that way you won’t risk rounding off the corners.

Soak with penetrating oil. Smack it with a big hammer, missing the thread. Then get someone to hold your new socket on straight, while you jump on the end of your long bar.

27mm? Why not get the proper imperial socket? Make sure the new socket is flat-drive, that way you won’t risk rounding off the corners.

Oh – I looked for Landy wheelbraces on Ebay and they said 27mm. What’s the imperial size?

Edit: 1 1/16″ – I see.

All good options gents.

I like TJs approach – real belt and braces stuff.

I’ll douse ’em in penetrating spray, then heat ’em, then try it 🙂

as above, oil, heat and then perhaps try an impact wrench?

I’ll douse ’em in penetrating spray, then heat ’em

❓

I bought one of these recently, fantastic for whipping wheel nuts on and off.

Can’t guarantee that it’ll get your stubborn nut off, but it’s certainly nice and quick.

for some reason the link won’t work, copy and paste this:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench?da=1&TC=SRC-impact

Cheers, Rich

I’ll douse ’em in penetrating spray, then heat ’em

I’ll allow a suitable time frame between the two activities but made me laugh 😆

THanks Rich but I doubt the torque would be enough.

Diff between 1 1/16th and 27mm is only 0.0004mm so I should be OK 🙂

+1 radtothepowerofsik

We had a guy at my old work douse a oil field tool in plus gas then the next day go at it with a heat gun. the fire marshals at worka all shit them selves when the alarm went off without being given prior notice. It didn’t help matters for the guy that did it that it was snowing outside and over 100 of us were stood outside in the freezing cold till the fire brigade let us back into the building.

i use a 27mm on mine. get a good quality one

big breaker bar

give it laldy

stick on some copper slip when you get out

Land Rover mechanics rules;
Rule 1 – Use a hammer
Rule 2 – If Rule 1 fails, use a bigger hammer

^^^^ This. You have to establish dominance.

From Mk 1 Transit days, spider brace and lump hammer. As much torque as possible on the spider whilst someone hits the centre with a lump hammer. Tip from some helpful guys in Yugoslavia after I broke my breaker bar.

If its a nut, just grind it off carefully and replace with new nut.

If its a bolt, just grind the head off it off and put the wheel back on with the other 4 – obviously with the intention of getting it sorted ‘some day’

If it’s proper seized, putting a pipe over the wheelbrace will just bend it.
You need either a proper commercial 27mm wheelbrace or a 3/4 drive socket set.
Put a block or jack under the brace or extension to hold it in line.

Wheelnuts are impossible to cut off tidy without damaging either the stud or wheel because they are countersunk.

Get a mobile tyre fitter to call in and loosen all the wheel nuts with an impact wrench.

Take the tyre off with the wheel still on the vehicle. Commercial vehicle tyre fitters often do this to avoid disturbing the wheel nuts.

Got a txt from a mate last night who said he’d just resorted to using a brick to try and remove the fuel pump on his D90.
Do you have any paving slabs handy?

Landys are commercial vehicles (you are turning the nut the right way) just a thought.

All wheel nuts on all Land Rovers are right hand thread.

Don’t waste your time with penetrating oil, it’s bollocks. It won’t penetrate anywhere if the thread is rusted solid. It’s moderately useful once the nut has started moving.

Have you tried standing on the wheel brace and bouncing? It used to work with my 90.

An old landy of mine (SII) had a few seized wheel nuts. I ended up undoing the studs..

You try the hot & cold trick, blowtorch followed by ice cold water the socket & break bar on quick & hit it with a hammer, repeat until either it gives or you give up.

Have you tried standing on the wheel brace and bouncing?

First thing I tried. At 15st it normally works well for me but not this time. Went on to a 6′ Marquee pole slid over the wheelbrace which was bending the brace so gave up.

Now waiting for my new socket to arrive and will use it on a cross brace with two other folk helping as per TJ’s instructions. 🙂

I’ve read that heat and a candle are good for seized bolts.
Heat the bolt up (properly) and hold the candle on top – the wax melts and runs down the threads which are then lubricated and easier to undo.
This method comes from a tractor restoration forum and it gets great reviews – but I would imagine it might be better that are vertical instead of horizontal. But it might be worth a try

it might be better that are vertical instead of horizontal.

I suppose we could tip the Landy on to its side then? 😆

Actually I don’t think the orientation makes a difference as the molten wax is drawn along the thread. Try it.

Don’t waste your time with penetrating oil, it’s bollocks. It won’t penetrate anywhere if the thread is rusted solid. It’s moderately useful once the nut has started moving.

Try the Wurth freeze/penetrating oil stuff-brilliant

Just a quick check, it is all steel isn’t it?

yep. get heating it

An old landy of mine (SII) had a few seized wheel nuts. I ended up undoing the studs..

Series 2 have got screw in studs. If the nut seizes on the stud and you force it, the stud will unscrew.
Series 3 have got proper splined studs with a head, pulled in from the back.

if all of the above fail . just get a proper vehicle……. like a hilux

just get a proper vehicle……. like a hilux

Ha ha! If I was buying one, I would. However, the Landy was given to us free and will never go on the road (without a new chassis) but it’s ideal for its duties.

Heat, (proper hot heat), and an impact socket on a big air gun or a long lever. It’ll either come off or the stud will shear. And you have four more studs, if it’s only a yard motor. If not, a second hand hub won’t cost much.

Airgun.

Get someone to stand on the brace, then hit the back of the socket head with a spanner to impact shock it.

Airgun.

Shotgun. I’d use it on myself rather than have another S3.