Is Barmouth a missed opportunity for biking?

Have been visiting the Mawddach estuary since childhood, never been much for Barmouth itself, found it depressing, but the natural beauty, wildlife and things of interest on the doorstep always were (to me) almost paradisiacal, taken as a whole. Yet the outdoor sports/pursuits opportunities that would normally grow like mushrooms around a place such as this are almost entirely missing – unless I missed them…?

I know things tend to evolve, yet Barmouth never really did? It’s still the home of the tired old amusement arcade, murky coffee, deep fried scampi in a basket – a Victorian resort gone to the Seventies and never beyond.

On the doorstep is some of the most stunning mountaineous/coastal terrain in the UK, peppered with disused quarries, blue pools, mountain lakes, The Afon Mawddach and estuary, even a cycle trail that runs directly up the centre of the valley from the (coastal) station to Dolgellau, itself only 9 miles from Coed y Brenin.

I most often look at Barmouth in a covetous, ‘hope it never changes’ fashion. Yet at other times I fantasise as a cycling-deity in the sky, playing a kind of Sims game – dropping a bike hire here, a great pub there, a connecting trail here, a kayak course over there.

If I live to a good old age am pretty sure I’ll be pedalling sedately across the Mawddach Bridge to sip on some murky coffee outside a grumpy café in Barmouth – wondering where all the MTBrs are and why every other shop is a charity shop not a bike shop.

You might want to check this thread…

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/if-youve-ridden-in-west-wales

Didn’t see that^. Thnks. Barmouth is an idiot. Signed.

So you have never ridden the Pont Scethin trail?

So you have never ridden the Pont Scethin trail?

That’s old drover’s road up the Rhinogydd? Have walked some of it in the distant past but looped back. Have done very little riding in the area, mostly walking – but it always struck me how few bikers, kayakers, etc I saw on my travels. Am convinced Barmouth itself is the sticking point. If Barmouth was in Cornwall you wouldn’t be able to move for people trying to pay the barman/bike-hire/barista.

In fact…forget everything I said. Grumpy coffee and a bit of peace and quiet sounds better than shouty lattés, and I actually like treasure-hunting around silent charity shops…Gah, am like Jekyll & Hyde for my fantasy-league West Wales uber-resort vision quest!

My mom has recently moved to Fairborne, next to Barmouth. We went walking at ‘blue lake’ last week and I really want to go back with my bike!

^

Awesome. The ‘Blue Lake’ was definitely one I had in mind, when I first saw the place it reminded me of something built by giants with a (cold!) Roman bath in the middle – and the views from up there over to the Ll?n Peninsula are spectacular on a good day. Great pics btw! Would make a great venue for trials/technical tuition.

PS Did you see remains of old railway lines under the tunnel? And the trout swimming about in the pool?

There’s also a prehistoric track up behind Llwyngwril which forms part of a loop behind Blue Lake, through Cregennen Lakes and on to Cader or else back down to Arthog

riding from Dolgellau next Thursday as part of a 7 day offroad tour of wales. heading down the mawdach tail to Barmouth. then doing the Pont Scethin route and finishing the day heading down onto the CYB trails.
staying it the Rhiw Goch inn for a shandy or 2.

We never actually went through the old tunnel, as my wife and I were totally unprepared and walking in converse and it was flooded.

Natural trails > trail centres all day long. It’s pretty cool that people aren’t riding Barmouth that much, sometimes it’s nice to be the only bugger there! Shropshire is a place that is brilliant and nobody seems to ride. Hopton and Eastridge trail centres are deserted at weekends and you can spend a full day up the Shropshire hills and rarely see another cyclist.

I spent 6 months there on placement at Arthog Outdoor Centre, above Fairbourne.

It is an absolutely stunning area, as you say peppered with interest, routes and places.

I think a few things have held it back:

Developments close by, such as Coed y Brenin, Machynlleth (for biking), Ffestiniog and Bala etc . I know they are not ‘that’ close, but in terms of investing money and visitor traveling, they are. So little money for the Mawddach estuary area.

A lot of the things to do are ‘proper outdoorsy’ – they require a walk, a really narrow access road, some exploring, a steep scramble etc. We as ‘proper’ outdoory folk are still niche when it comes to tourism. People want to pull up the car park, just off a nice easy main road, with loos and cafe and walk a few hundred metres to a view/ interest etc. Even us bikers are increasingly like that.

My last comment is based on 20 years ago – and may be well out of date, but highlights the fact that many other places were being developed 20 years ago (I rode round some woods with a colleague from the outdoor centre who was part time / voluntairily building these little trails in the woods, trying to persuade folk it was ‘the future’. He was Daffyd Davis, and the woods were Coed y Brenin). That area is the only place in Wales I bumped into nationalism and rudeness to me as an Englishman. The local shop in Fairbourne insisted on speaking Welsh to me each morning, despite after 6 months knowing I did not speak Welsh. The pub at Llwyngwril is the only place I have been verbally abused and told with pride ‘we don’t have English living here’. A few other underlying issue of locals not wanting change / development as well. I know this is a minority – but I think it held back some of the initial opportunities back then, reflected now in lack of facilities and development.

Completely agree, matt. Have never experienced the overt Nationalism in person but the locals can be a frosty and insular bunch to outsiders, same in Dolgellau.

Is also quite a far-flung destination on the UK roadmap, and with small roads as you mention. I get pretty sick of the ‘drive everywhere otherwise it’s nowhere’ mentality. Recreation (especially cycle-touring) changed enormously in the UK after the Beeching axe. Now it’s cars all the way as you say. Non-cyclist-friendly trains don’t help any. When I was a teenager we used to just turn up and throw bikes and stuff in the guards/mail carriage. No booking required.

I’m still dreaming of a park and ride near Dolgellau – bikepackers, daytrippers, Euro-touristes etc take the Mawddach trail to a dedicated outdoors facility at the old Morfa Mawdacch station – ie cafe/restaurant/bunkhouses, kayaks, guided natural trails, all the info, showers etc. Campsites will be happy and springing up. Locals will make money. Call it ‘Abermaw’ 😉

Abermaw

I can see the t-shirts already.

One important question. Is the ‘Sandancer’ club still in Barmouth? “Where reality ends – and fantasy begins” 😆 8) Friday nights in there, followed by a stumble home over the bridge. Ace.

One important question. Is the ‘Sandancer’ club still in Barmouth?

*

You went there after dark? 😯

I never get beyond halfway over the bridge once the sun sets. Quick night fish for bass then run back to the hills.

*the ‘arousal cafe’ was still there last time. (The ‘C’ was still missing off the sign)

You went there after dark?

It is best at night.

Malvern Rider – Member
Call it ‘Abermaw’

No. Call it Gnarvana.

The Sandancer was amazing. So many happy memories.
Matt, there’s no wonder you had abuse from the locals if you had Crads with you 😆 😉

I spent a good few hours riding natural trail and lanes in the hills in the Barmouth & Dolgellau area last month. It’s an awesome place to get away from it all..
I wouldn’t want it to be any busier. The towns were packed, but once off the beaten track, I hardly saw a soul.

bastard freezing

I rode my bike off that very spot into the blue lake.Had a few run ups before changing my mind.Went for it…bottled it and grabbed the brakes.Still went over the edge!! (in my defence I was young and an idiot).The back wheel clipped the edge of the rocks as I hit the water 😯
Ridden and windsurfed there a lot over the years.Agree with Mattoutandabout.

Llwyngwril IS a bit odd (but with a massive caravan park there!) but have always been ok when I’ve had to ask someone in the middle of the street to do/undo my wetsuit in the middle of winter!!

the view from above blue lake is a bit special 🙂

interesting factoid about Barmouth, it’s where the NT was started. 😐

It is a pleasant spot.

(not my images)

the beaches north of barmouth are very nice too

It is world class pleasant IMO, and just as enjoyable (more so?) to me for being unspoilt and *not* having developed what I see as enormous potential for offering first class outdoors and local food and drink to match the location. May be that it remains as always – I read somewhere that an Edwardian developer (built Mawdacch Terrace) had plans for a large resort on the Arthog side near Fegla Fawr/Fach but it never worked out. Anyone know what happened to ‘Ponderosa’? That was sold some time ago if I remember correctly, a beautiful spot always thought what great camping could be had there.

I read somewhere that an Edwardian developer (built Mawdacch Terrace) had plans for a large resort on the Arthog side near Fegla Fawr/Fach but it never worked out.

That is what I was told by folk locally.

The Mawddach estuary area is one of our favourite spots. We camped at Cae Du just down the coast last month and did some exploring of the hills above there – it was lovely. Have also stayed at Graig Wen a few times in the past.

Barmouth has it’s charm but I agree it really doesn’t live up to it’s potential for such a glorious spot.

I do fancy its on the up though I doubt it will be as an outdoor hub.

The old Chapel on the High Street which used to be a pound shop is now this: http://www.piecesforplaces.co.uk/#!about-pieces-for-places/c1se

…and there are a few other indicators of gentrification around the town. – coffee shops, “boutiques” etc.

If I’m honest I could see it becoming a bigger version of Abersoch in a few years time…I’m not sure that’s necessarily a good thing.

Re Ponderosa – From the looks of it when we passed a few weeks back I think it’s a campsite / bunkhouse now:

EDIT – OP it looks like you got your wish – it’s now known as Cefn Coed apparently: http://www.cefncoed.co.uk/

Could be a brummy (vs mancunian) abersoch….gawd forbid!

Could be a brummy (vs mancunian) abersoch….gawd forbid!

😯

Needs about 100-200 brave bikers and kayakers to move to Barmouth over the next decade, setup shop/house/family there.

Think the locals would settle for ‘Abermore’? 😉 think semi-gentrified with the focus squarely on outdoor pursuits, good local ale and food, and a sustainable transport infra.

I’ve got a great affection for the place, having done four 3 Peaks yacht races from there, with local sailors. Brilliant atmosphere around town that weekend for sure. I’ve spent quite a bit of time there and met some lovely locals over the years there. I too think it’s really under rated, yep the town can be pretty cheesy in places but the location and surrounding areas are stunning!! I like the Last Inn for a pint and food, couple of nice cafes and places to eat, nothing to fancy but good grub at least.

I really hope they don’t close that bridge\cycle route that the council is trying to close.

I go every year on holiday as it’s so dog friendly and I really love it. I know the town is a little run down but as said the surrounding areas are just gorgeous. I’ve ridden a very small amount of local trails as I always go to Cyb. I will be back next year without a doubt.