I’m about to buy my first bike with 1×11 (Whyte 905-RS), but I know my muscles and my knees will miss the lowest gears I’ve had previously! So if I find it all too much, can I sensibly replace the 30-tooth chainring with a 28?

Thanks

You’ll struggle for the first month or two then you’ll get stronger. With a 1×10 setup (11-40 cassette) I lost just 1 1/2 ratios at either end when compared to a 3×9 drivetrain. Grab a gear calculator (i.e. the Sheldon Brown one) and work it out, you’ll be surprised.

I get the impression that 28T 104 BCD 4-bolt rings are quite rare, it seems easier to find them in the 64 BCD size (typically the inner ring of a 2x chainset).

Whats the numbers? Actually work it out front divided by rear.
I went from 2×10 26/38 to 1×10 then 1×11. My 32 – 10-42 setup is about 1.5-2 gears down at the lowest point and 1 down up top. Do the maths and see where you are

According to the gear ratio calculator I found, 1×11 with a 28-tooth will give me the same lowest gear as the 2×10 that comes on the Whyte 905 (non-RS). But then I get a lesser fork, so I’m keen to go 1×11 if I can cope. My 52 year old legs like to spin!

I notice that the chainset that comes on the RS version (SRAM GX S1000 GXP) only goes down to 30-tooth. Perhaps I am after something too unusual.

@windowshopper – I’m a bit (ahem) older than you and not had any trouble with 1×10 (the cheap route – XT cassette with 40T expander). I started with a 30T chainring but have used a 32T as well. I rarely use the extender, maybe a few times a year, but it’s nice as a get out of jail option. Usually by the time I’m in that gear it’s easier/more efficient to walk.

The 30T rings for 104BCD cranksets typically have built-in shims/bosses to keep the teeth from fouling on the crank arms, they also use one piece threaded bolts rather than the normal double sided ones found on 2x & 3x cranksets. The 30T looks pretty close to the minimum that a 104BCD crankset could take.

unless you live in the alps, I’m betting you’ll barely notice the difference.

. The 30T looks pretty close to the minimum that a 104BCD crankset could take.

Yes, 30T is the minimum – if you want anything smaller than that then you’ll have to fit it in the inner ring position or use a direct mount crankset.

Went 1×10 last year & was worried about losing the 22t/32t and going 30t up front, but it was fine. You might find yourself out of the saddle a little more often but that’s no bad thing.

The 30T looks pretty close to the minimum that a 104BCD crankset could take.

This is correct. You can’t get smaller than 30t round or 32t oval chainring onto a 104BCD crank.

I think it is just the SRAM cranks with removable spiders (XX1, X01?) which can fit a 28T.

Fit your 30 or 32 tooth narrow/wide one as normal then mount a 24 or similar in the inner position to act as an emergency bail out. You don’t need the from mech just manually change into it when/if ever needed. It will be barely noticable when not in use.

Nobody has mentioned mtfu yet..

Nobody has mentioned mtfu yet..

Do The Rules apply to STW? 😛

Like I said above, you get used to things remarkably quickly and anything I can’t get up with the 1×10 system I was unlikely to get up with my 3×9

This might be a daft statement but why worry about it until you’ve tried it? give it a go first, you might like it.

The big question is how often do you actually use your lowest gear? Bet it’s not as often as you think and by the time you need it I wouldn’t mind betting the ratios of it will be the last thing on your mind.

@The Pinkster I actually have tried it, but on a demo day on fairly benign forest trails that don’t replicate the rocky Peak District climbs I’m more accustomed to.

I honestly do like to go to the bottom gear and spin quite often, but I guess I’ll give it a go, knowing there are options to change if I really can’t get along with it.

Thanks for all the replies. How would I ever make a decision without STW forums! 🙂