Kona HEi Hei is my other choice, need to sort a rest ride.

Seeing as im not the most confident descender

I wouldn’t be so quick to ditch the dropper then. My trek superfly 100sl has one fitted and it’s not going anywhere. Sure you can save 300gms but it makes the bike so much more fun and confidence inspiring.

Not trying to put you off or anything but I know of a lot of people who have broken their frames on Occams . Warranty seems pretty good but one person is on his fourth frame . Cannondale Scalpel might be worth a look as well .

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-2018-santa-cruz-tallboy-cc-frame-large-brand-new-2100-ono

Well I reckon this is the one to kick off, what wheels to replace my, what angleset for my, what dropper to replace the dropper I removed etc

🙂 🙂 🙂

well the reason is that I find my hardtail geometry absolutely perfect, confident and very comfortable so I’m trying to replicate that as much as possible.

That hinges on the assumption that HT and FS geometry should be the same, IME that is not the case.

And that’s before you throw the ‘are those static vs sagged vs dynamic figures’ problem into the mix.

Comparing on paper will only get you so far, I know you already know that, but just saying it again 😉

Hence the need for testing Amedias…

Mikewsmith – nah, KCNC post and Mt Zoom flat carbon if needed… no angle sets. 🙂

Good choice. I have had my 2013 carbon Tallboy for over 15k km and still love it. Done a few stage races on it, now spending more time becoming a more confident descender, it is a fantastic bike and seems to be built strong enough for someone crash-prone like me. I’ve got the 120 SID (2016) on it and would probably put a 120 Pike on it now if money/hassle was no object.

Scott don’t have the obscure 34.9 seatpost sizing anymore, 31.6 across the board.
Sure the 34 adds weight over the RC’s SC and the slacker HA comes from the extra 20mm travel. (34 and regular 32 have little weight difference)
My 29er’d 700 plus is slacker still but aside from steep technical climbs I don’t notice it on the up, but its as capeable as a 150mm bike (front and rear) on the way down with the stock 130mm 34s and 120 rear.
The RC has a shorter stroke shock and is only 100 rear.
900RC because of weight puts you into a different category of bike than a raceable trail bike. The RC (race concept) is pretty much race dedicated imo.

I’m still not quite sure why you’re even discussing more travel and more capable bikes when the first thing you’re going to do is take the dropper off. On anything approaching steep terrain I’d rather ride a rigid bike with the saddle dropped than a 130mm full sus with a rigid post.
Different strokes for different folks and all, but you really are missing out.

Keep the dropper if you have probs descending, worth seconds a lap I would have thought.

Well, I’ll be testing a Spark 920 which comes with one, so we’ll see…

As a complete build that doesn’t look great value.. You could surely get a cc frame (rather than the c you will get as a full build) only deal and spend the 2400 left over on parts of your exact choice.. Probably get carbon wheels for that kind of money.

As an aside, do santa cruz sell c frames only, I’d be tempted with a bronson if so but can’t find them anywhere.

And lastly.. Have you considered a asrc? You would easily get a nice one for that kind of cash and it genuinely is a great bike, more trail orientated than an anthem, way lighter than a tall boy, and pedals great when the shock is in climb mode. I’m biased as I have one, but for that cash you could build up a sub 22lb version easily. Granted it’s not vpp, and it’s not going to be as capable on the downs as a tall boy.. But it’s still a very capable bike.

Have you considered a asrc

Yep. Reviews said a bit noodly at the back, and I had an ASR5 of which the rear swingarm broke…

It’s not noticeably noodly and I’m 83 kg, but without the shock on firm it is wallowy when pedaling uphill..thats been picked up by most testers.

Regarding snapping rear triangles.. As mine is no longer in warranty I’m just keeping fingers crossed although I have looked and I can’t see any mention of it snapping online.. Not saying it won’t happen mind, and I certainly can’t argue with your concern! They do come with 5 years warranty now though I think.. Mine was ex demo so only got a year..

Sounds like you have already dismissed it however so out of the options you are looking at I’d go for the anthem. My 26er was best bike I ever had.. I imagine throwing 5 k at one would get you an incredible bike.. Only downside I can see is the seat tube diameter.. But given you don’t want to run a dropper probably not an issue

I imagine throwing 5 k at one

I don’t want to spend £5k and I don’t have £5k to spend. The OP was based on the fact I’d found the bike I want… but the price is an issue.

What marathon events need 120 /130mmm full suss?
Maybe the Dyfi enduro , the world cup descent is the hardest I have come across in an organised event.
Most of the Scott events are tame by comparison.
Overbiked for HONC fo shure
Is it just the numbers are almost an exact match for your HT ? so out the box its a nice fit , will be comfortable for long days out , and pedal efficiently.

None.

But i want a bike thats also a bit of fun on the trails, not the Equivelent of taking an F1 car around the Sussex country lanes. But i dont want that bike to comprimise my racing. I want a Marathon/Trail Fs, not an XC race bike.

What marathon events need 120 /130mmm full suss?

I’m happy to say, most of the Canadian west coast XC races do 🙂

Oh my god! There’s actually a thread full of love for that hideous bike I saw in Cyclesurgery! 😯
I won’t go on there and upset them. They do seem to have actually ridden the beastly thing 😆

But i dont want that bike to comprimise my racing. I want a Marathon/Trail Fs, not an XC race bike.

umm

Now, that is a contradiction. I dont want a bike to compromise my racing, but I dont want a race bike..ookkayyyyy

I want a F1 car with BF Goodrich Mud terrain tyres so it doesnt compromise my off road capability.