Viewing 36 posts - 1 through 36 (of 36 total)
  • how to dent a steel chain stay about 4mm safely?
  • fd3chris
    Free Member

    I know it sounds a bit odd but i need to put a crease/slight dent in my chain stay to enable me to fit my Hammerschmidt. Is this a feasible idea or would you send it off to Argos Cycles? Its just ive heard poor reports of their turn arounds and I’m an impatient bugger!

    no_eyed_deer
    Free Member

    Hammer –>

    4 Hammerschmidt.

    I like that 8)

    Simon
    Full Member

    G-clamp and a bit of wood is the controlled way to do it. Or just **** it with a big hammer.

    victor123
    Free Member

    You can do it all this on your own just hammer it.

    bencooper
    Free Member

    Hammer is tricky to get a good ding with – g-clamp or vice with a shaped bit of wood, or mole grips can work.

    iolo
    Free Member

    Cut it out with an angle grinder. It will be much neater.

    fatsimonmk2
    Free Member

    suitable sized flat faced punch and good hammer(3lb) should do slow and steady and not to much violence 😀

    nuke
    Full Member

    What frame just out of curiosity?

    Before and after pics for our viewing pleasure please 😀

    downhilldave
    Full Member

    iolo,if you cut it with ana angle grinder it will need welding 🙄 Piece of wood shaped to fit the inside of the chainstay to support and another suitable piece above and give it a crack 😆

    davewilson634
    Free Member

    Just get a mate to hold it and drive into it

    andyl
    Free Member

    I think the angle grinder was a joke.

    I’d probably use a small ball-peen hammer and tap it. Trying to squeeze it slowly will probably deform the tube in a different way to what you want.

    You do it at your own risk though!

    davewilson634
    Free Member

    In all honesty I wouldn’t recommend it hammer would cause undue stress to the weld and clamp could encourage a crack .

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    vice and support, use something cylindrical to make the dent – running the same way as the tube.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    I would not do this.

    ste_t
    Free Member

    Buy a new frame?

    thepodge
    Free Member

    Wasn’t this a common fix for chainsuck

    fd3chris
    Free Member

    It’s a 2010 Cotic bfe which I like a lot but it can’t take the H/S 🙁

    sv
    Full Member

    Wasn’t this a common fix for chainsuck

    …on On-Ones of a certain vintage (used a hammer on my 853 Inbred chainstay)

    tymbian
    Free Member

    Hope you don’t pull the bb with it…

    tymbian
    Free Member

    Can you put a spacer behind the H/S?

    fd3chris
    Free Member

    No as it has to be over the axle and as tight as you can get to the iscg mounts.

    Simon
    Full Member

    I indented the chain stay on my old 456 with a g-clamp to deal with the “chain suck issue”, it was fine.

    fd3chris
    Free Member

    Is either the g clamp or a new frame then!

    tymbian
    Free Member

    Unless you can put spacers on the ISCG mount also..btw I know f-all about the H/S

    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    Another 456 whacker here. I did it with a ball peen hammer and about 4 layers if insulation tape to protect the paint. A ball peen hammer is also the correct tool for the job.

    ndg
    Free Member

    If you’re willing to risk writing of the frame…………I’d probably give it a go if it was me

    Drill a wooden block and cut it in half to make a support for the back of the chainstay. Then either a vice and piece large round bar, of a ball pein hammer. Tape as suggested above to protect paint as far as possible. You may need to cold set the rear triangle afterwards (bend it back into alignment!).

    I’d personally go with the vice option – more control over the process. It worked well when I needed to relieve an exhaust pipe to clear a modified steering rack/column before now. The only issue was using a bar that was a little small on the diameter, so it was a tighter crease that I’d hoped for.

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    When I was about 10 years old I inadvertently flattened both chainstays on my 1988 Peugeot MTB by doing up the kickstand clamp too tight with a big spanner…

    tymbian
    Free Member

    @ Chief …obviously quality stays.. 😆

    chiefgrooveguru
    Full Member

    http://cyclespeugeot.com/PDFs/1988UK.pdf

    Page 22/23 of the PDF – Ranger 24! 🙂

    fd3chris
    Free Member

    it looks like i will be fitting all my stuff to a Kona Steely frame i forgot i had as the H\S seems to be a lot closer fit . Medium Bfe For sale then ! Sorry to disappoint guys but no hammers out or g clamps now !!

    spanishfly
    Free Member

    You are wrong you can put a “max” of 3mm spacers (Truativ) so sufficient thread is engaged on mounts.

    However I have approx 4.5mm on my Blood so to clear the swing arm, with no issues, I also moved up a BB size and utilsed a couple of spacers to ensure the HS is flush with the BB face.

    I have had no issues with either chain line or the mounts since fitment.

    However as you have found out not all frames are suitable with a HS. Bummer. As far as HT frames compatible, I know a Transition Trans AM easily (I have one). I hope it helps…………..

    user-removed
    Free Member

    Erm, I could be interested in the Bfe frame – how much please?

    mrelectric
    Full Member

    Gentlemen please, there some mischievous comments here!

    OP, have to say it seems like a risky, hassling mod for something that’s alright but not that great ..

    bruneep
    Full Member

    Spanishfly talks sense.

    Having seen his set up I can confirm it works just fine.

    steve_b77
    Free Member

    My mate did it by going OTB at CYB a year ago, his 456 gas ridden fine ever since

    fd3chris
    Free Member

    i know it seems a bit extreme but i really love the H/S , enough to use another frame if need be to be honest.

Viewing 36 posts - 1 through 36 (of 36 total)

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