Evening All,

Is there a way of checking for chain wear/stretch without purchasing a chain checker/specific tool??

Tia
Carl

with a ruler

Yes – compare a new chain with an old one – chains you buy are a bit ore than 100 links so anything more than 3/4 of a link longer is worn out – or as Jedi says measure them – sheldon brown has all the details

Looks like I’ll be ordering a new chain this week then according to Sheldon, may as well get the cassette as its a bit worn and rear mech as thats bent.

Cheers
Carl

Is the mech bent or the hanger?

Never had to straighten a mech but have done a few mech hangers before.

Pretty sure its the mech and as its looking worn. But I will try the spare hanger. cheers

as someone who seems to go through a couple of drive trains on each of my bikes every year i found one of the to be very helpfull…
Park Tool Chain checker

Cheers Craig, going to put on in the shopping basket this time round. Shutting the stable once the horse has bolted I know

I wait until the chain starts to slip in the little sprockets then order new chain and cassette…..

Rough guide.
Put the chain on the big ring.
Grab the furthest forward part of the chain and pull it away from the ring.
If it clears a tooth completely, it is worn out.

jedi – Member
with a ruler

+1

I tend to smash by knee against the brake lever clamps or stem.

There are other ways to check, like a ruler for example.

with a ruler

❓

Can you get a King chain checker? I’ve had to make do with a Park Tools one.

+2 with a ruler.

Put a little tension on the chain and measure 12 links. On a new chain they’ll be exactly 12 inches. If they measure 12 and 1/16 you need a new chain soon. If they measure 12 and 1/8 you need a new chain right now and you might need a new middle chainring and cassette too.

Use a steel rule, long as you can. Once it has “stretched” by 0.5% it’s time for the bin. I use a Rohloff chain checker but only to tell me when I need to start keeping a proper eye on it. Chain wear tools normally tell you the chain is dead far too early.

IMHO chains don’t actually get longer. The wear is in the pivots rubbing the bushings creating play between them and effectively making the potential gap inside the link larger. A worn vs new chain should be the same overall length. This play in the bushings is how chains can become slack on fixed gear bikes without the chain actually being any longer.

Buy a chain checker anyway only a fiver.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=42815

+1 what sharki said 😀

[/b]WillTheRealForumPleaseStandUp[b] – just wondering why you said might need new middle chainring too if chain is worn. Are you assuming middle chainring used the most? I’m only asking as recently changed chain and middle chainring slipping now (and I’m pretty sure I use middle and outer equally).

thanks

SiB – Member
[/b]WillTheRealForumPleaseStandUp[b] – just wondering why you said might need new middle chainring too if chain is worn. Are you assuming middle chainring used the most? I’m only asking as recently changed chain and middle chainring slipping now (and I’m pretty sure I use middle and outer equally).

thanks

Yes you are correct, big ring is removed all together so it makes your willy look bigger and the bash guard that replaces it make you down with the kids

Sharki, I have no need for big ring removal, I gota wear baggies as it is.

SO why does the middlering wear quicker than the large if both used equally?

I really can’t figure that one out, there’s a theory in my head, but it technically doesn’t work.

More chain coverage on the big ring = less tension under load causing reduced wear time.

This may be also might mean you pedal more efficiently on your big ring than your middle, ie, change down to the middle when the big feels wrong, yet would rather try to use the middle than the granny.

Just a theory.

SO why does the middlering wear quicker than the large if both used equally?

Because it is smaller, so there is more leverage.

Imagine a 160mm crank for the sake of using round numbers.
Round numbers again,imagine a 100kg rider.
With a chainring of 80mm radius, however many teeth that might be, with 100kg on the pedal,there is 200kg force on the chain.
With a 40mm radius chainring, for the same pedalling effort, there is now 400kg force on the chain.
Not only is a smaller chainring subject to a greater load, that load is spread over fewer teeth.