Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
  • How Low Should You Go – Torque Wrench
  • bigsurfer
    Free Member

    Looking for a torque wrench as I am more than capable of stripping bolts in my sleep, saw this Teng one on the screwfix website. I always thought Teng had a good reputation in tools and it comes with a caliberation certificate.

    If its any good its a good price, what would need to be torqued to under 5NM or over 25NM on a common bike, no fancy carbon fibre.

    Cheers.

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    Both. small bolts are often 5 or less NM – and the wrench is not very accurate at the ends of the scale. Crank bolts can be 50 NM +.

    Not that I would ever use a torque wrench on a bike and you can still strip threads using one.

    younggeoff
    Full Member

    that's quite a useful range, Shimano cranks are 12-15nm (except XTR) thomson stems etc tend to be around 5Nm and for the money it ain't bad. for smaller bolts I just use and allen key very carefully 🙂

    jond
    Free Member

    ISTR the V-brake clamps (tho' that is around CF) and the brake arch bolts on my '97-ish Paces are somewhere around the 2.5 – 5 mark.
    I think the cable clamp on Avid mechanicals is about 5-8, not that I'd normally bother with a wrench, 'cept I had one to hand last w/e when I was fitting 'em

    (FWIW I've got a Norbar SL0 – 2.5 to 20Nm )

    coatesy
    Free Member

    Got one of those myself, quite a nice tool, but be aware that if you don't adjust the lock-bolt at the base as you're adjusting the setting, then it can unscrew itself and fall apart(unless they've modified them in the last few years).

    jond
    Free Member

    Must admit I hadn't noticed it could do that…mebbe it is different – probably a couple of years old.

    midlifecrisis
    Free Member

    I have always thought I didn't need a torque wrench, but reading this article changed my mind.

    goldenwonder
    Free Member

    I ended up buying a range of them, a really small one from 2-16NM, then a normal 1/4" drive, 3/8" & 1/2" drive so everything is covered. Although the 1/2" is very rarely used on anything except my car!

    jond
    Free Member

    I've managed without one for the last 20 yrs – but I wanted to flip the link on my Enduro and was a bit paranoid about either not using enough torque and damage resulting if a bolt worked loose, or stripping a thread at the start.

    Christowkid
    Free Member

    Did see in this month's MBUK a recommendation for a Torque wrench set from Giant, around £59 if I remember correctly. No idea of quality etc. but it seemed a good deal. They also had an image of a bike and a whole set of recommended torque settings.
    Must admit, has made me think a bit. Seems to me everything is quoted with its' setting nowadays, but what happens if the torque wrench is out of calibration? Can this occur?
    Or p'raps I'll stick to 'gentle' wrenching……
    Q

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    A normal torque wrench is within 5% from 20 – 80 % of its range. Not reliable at each end of its range and other factors also come in such as clean or dirty threads, oiled. greased or dry thread, threadlock or not, antiseize or not

    I wouldn't use a normal torque wrench at low torque values.

    GavinB
    Full Member

    Ideally you should be looking at a torque wrench that covers you from around 3Nm to up to 15Nm. The only appreciable item above that is your cassette lockring at 40Nm, but that can be judgeed fairly accurately as 'hard as ****' tension on an adjustable wrench.

    An advised way of making sure that your torque wrench stays accurate at the limits of its range is to wind off the wrench after using it, in order to reduce stress on the spring.

    As for those wise words of TJ

    Not that I would ever use a torque wrench on a bike and you can still strip threads using one.

    Rubbish advice and a classic of 'internet forum compulsive answer syndrome' – basically you have nothing to add to this thread, but have to answer nonetheless.

    andymonty
    Free Member

    "Not that I would ever use a torque wrench on a bike and you can still strip threads using one."

    Rubbish advice and a classic of 'internet forum compulsive answer syndrome' – basically you have nothing to add to this thread, but have to answer nonetheless

    Anyone else remember the early Shimano hollow tech II problems with the 2 pinch bolts stripping the threads out of the crank arm when torquing to the specified values?

    Shimanos solution supply longer bolts

    phead
    Free Member

    I have the sealey, 2-25, seems to do the job, and cheaper than the one listed.

    http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=STW1012

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

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