Ok I have the freewheel off and hitting the axle from the freewheel side has resulted in splitting lots of wood on the axle and zero movement.
What are my options beyond larger hammer and more force?

A mate [ of this parish ] suggested hitting it out from the non freewheel side then drifting out the bearings

If it matters i have the proper Hope tools for the job – borrowed from someone of this parish

Any advice appreciated before i get all agricultural on it take it to a shop.

Yes. I think he’s right. Hit it from the other side.

Pop an old rotor bolt in the end of the axle & hit it progressively harder with a steel hammer. If it hasn’t been out in a while (unlikely with an XC hub) it needs a shock to break it free, a plastic mallet struggles, the rotor bolt will protect the axle end from damage.

Cheers and the later is a good idea and the former a back up plan possibly still using the bol-at least i know i can do it.

Cheers.

From the drawing it looks like the standard Hope arrangement, the axle should drift out by tapping from the free hub end taking the non drive side bearing with it ! I would make sure the non drive side is supported firmly i.e big socket.

http://www.rushcycles.co.uk/m49b0s472p4098/HOPE-Set-of-3-Pawl-Springs-for-Hope-XC-bulb-rear-hub

It may be an idea to leave in a pan of boiling water for a minute, the different expansion rate of hub body v the ss bearing will help !

I know what it should do but it is not doing it trust me i have given it more than a tap
I have the proper Hope kit so don’t need a socket or other improvised drift

I think, from the diagram, the issue is there is not enough axle if you hit from the non drive side to knock it out but it is the non drive bearing that is most knackered. SO PP and DONK look right and I am going to need a “drift” to do this from this side using the top tip of a disc bolt to spare the axle- tomorrow morning she gets it

It’ll come out from either side, so no worries there. Generally, blocks of wood and plastic/rubber hammers aren’t up to the job,so as said above, support the hub shell on something solid with enough room for the axle to pass through, put an M5 bolt in the axle, and hit it square with a grown-up’s hammer.

CHeers all
STW -1 Hope xc bearing – 0

All sorted rotor bolt and bigger hammer worked a treat.
Ok now the free wheel gets it.

Go gentle on the innermost freehub bearing (dont forget to take the circlip out first!).
I got mine to move about 3 mm and then the inner (axle) race popped out leaving the outer race in the freehub body. Fortunately because it had moved a bit I was able to get under it and tap it out, but there was a bit of a panic moment!

Puts down sledge hammer

If you can wind it out using a press or threaded bar then thats better. Hammertime doesnt seem to be too effective!
As long as it comes out square you should be ok, if it twists then it can be a PITA.

It came out but it was able to rotate whilst in the middle – not sure if this indicated a worn freewheel—pfft they are only about a decade ole shoddy British engineering

Everything sorted and bearings to be reinserted…..what could possibly go wrong

Again cheers all

Go gentle on the innermost freehub bearing (dont forget to take the circlip out first!)

DT freehubs also have one of these….I eventually remembered 😳

Junkyard – lazarus

It came out but it was able to rotate whilst in the middle – not sure if this indicated a worn freewheel—pfft they are only about a decade ole shoddy British engineering

Everything sorted and bearings to be reinserted…..what could possibly go wrong

Again cheers all
Naah, I think theres a shoulder where the bearings seat within the freehub body, so when it widens out (between the two bearing seats) the bear sometimes rotates. No biggie.
Mine did it a year or two ago.
They’re pretty bomb proof hubs, my rear XC is still in regular use on the main bike. No intention of replacing it until the ratchet ring dies (only replaced 3 years ago) and then I’ll just swap all the bits over to a spare hubshell (with unworn ratchet ring).