As promised a while back now I have one to do so heres the first instalment

parts list
1 x taskled Lflex
4 x U2 XMLS
1 x IP67 Switch ( NO MoM )
Arctic Alumina Epoxy adhesive

first up a squirt of wd 40 or similar and leave to soak in to the seal
then on with the marigolds for extra grip and after warming up the housing with a heat gun or hairdryer carefully whist holding the optic unscrew the bezel this may take a bit of force but be carefull not to let the optic spin or it will lose its legs

inside you will see the leds they are bonded very well to the posts in the housing and wont come off without breaking so dont worry about them they are history .

you need to break away the centre with its 3 solder pins so you can get the driver out the back but you need to leave the rest of the board in to locate the optic legs

once you have the driver out it is best to chop an inch off the cable as this is where it is liable to break and be weakened so with some new wire stripped and a small zip tie around the cable for strain relief I also use some pvc adhesive on the cable into the gromet.

now the dremel to clean up the led posts ready for the new leds

mix up some thermal glue and quickly fit your leds

using the optic to position them and wait for the glue to set

While this is setting drill out the hole for the switch
12 mm for this switch

When the glue is set you can wire the leds up as 2 parallel strings of 2 leds in series .

and then it is round the back but that will follow in part two

good work. If you ever do one for an exposure joystick I’ll give you something shiny

Wish I had the know how to do this kind of stuff!

Wish i could this sort of thing myself.
How much would it cost for you to do it for me?

chris

Wish I had the know how to do this kind of stuff!

That’s the easy bit. I wish I had the tools!

Part 2 is a bit small

First the Lflex needs its thermal double sided tape sticking on

And warm up the housing again and stick in the Lflex in the position shown

Then solder all your wires and job nearly done

the next bit is to read the Lflex manual and configure the driver to 3 or 3.5 amps drive and set the modes and thermal monitoring Job done you now have an approx 2000 lupin Hope vision 4 .

One more little point is the front bezel wont quite close up tight so a little silicon sealant is needed to make it fully waterproof .

Just one quick and probably silly question, why not use some leds that use the smae intensity and voltageas the original ones but that give you more lumens for your buck? In such case you just have to de-sold the old ones and re-sold the new ones? No?

juan

I am going to assume that the Hope have designed the light using older tech when it comes to LED’s the current these are then run at is optimised for thoes LED’s.

What trout is doing it puting the latest LED’s in the light the XML’s can be run at higher currents producing brighter output so the old driver needs replacing in conjunction with the LED’s.

Nice one MrT what ‘led’ you to this !

Rusty has it correct I did try to use the existing driver but it was nowhere near powerful enough for the new leds.

Smudge Lets just say I saw the light 😳

Top stuff. Shame the casing doesn’t fit, couldn’t you machine a “washer” to increase the body depth or am I misunderstanding?

I’d be happy compensating you for the extra faff if it avoided the silicon filler. 😀

Sorry for hijack 😳

Hey Smudge, sent you an email regarding a battery for my Vision 4 that Chris converted. Can you do a battery with a Hope connector?

Cheers
Ian