Anyone used a headset press? Relatively easy ?

Thinking of getting this to fit a headset. I can also remove the lower race from old forks using it?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10225

Very easy, the job is over so quickly its almost dissapointing.

Cyclus press is cheaper.

I just use a knife/screwdriver to get races off.

Kind of expensive that. There's cheaper around and a threaded bar with big washers and nuts does the job handsomely. As for removing the crown race – no!

Very easy to use. but a threaded bar with a few washers of varying sizes is cheaper.

and it won't remove the lower race form the forks 😐

book/block o wood + hammer

Ah what tool do they use to fit and remove lower races in the shops?

hmm have to look into the threaded bar.. ordinary DIY stores sell that sort of thing?

Yeah cyclus one is 30ish squid good spot.

Cover the end of a large blunt flat headed screwdriver with a couple of layers of electrical tape, turn fork upside down, and gently tap around the underside of the crown race until it comes loose. Loads of little taps rather than a couple of large wallops is the key to this.

Cyclus one is really good cant see why you would need to spend more. Threaded bar and washers isnt that good, its a pain to keep central. Wood and hammer is easier than the bar.

I have the cyclus one and it's a doddle to use. No facility to remove crown race, however that can usually be acheieved without damaging the fork by simply (but carefully) using 'normal tools'.

whats wrong with what joe said? 😆

Mine is a DIY job, a cylinder head bolt, 2 bits of washing machine with holes drilled in (didn't have any really big washers), and to stop the plates twisting as they're tightened, a little flat roller bearing which I think is out of a clutch. So, almost exactly the same as some of the expensive "proper" ones, no difference in function except that it has some deadly sharp edges.

Though I've used a bit of wood and rubber mallet too, which worked fine but does have more potential to screw up I think.

diy jobbie

cost diddly squat. stick a few more washers in there if you are worried about the plates turning.

not hard to keep centered. just make sure it is lined up and go slowly.

Mallet & a block of wood here…

I buy the headset from my LBS and they fit it, using the proper tools and funnily enough also have the correct tools for removing a non-split crown race (your tapping with a screw driver may not work too well with some wide crowns) cheapest becuase if you buy the headset from them, they don't charge to fit it, and no time required from me, so zero cost.
No buggering about with threaded bars and whacking in with th bits of wood, not even worth risking on one of those cheap on-ones !

Now that's sorted, the real argument should be whether to grease the cups or not (where they go into the head tube) !!

What risk do you think exists with "percussive engineering" the headsets in? If you smash one side in then the other then you might oval the crowns but as long as you're not a hamfisted gooner that's not likely to happen.

never ever ever ever hit a bearing…unless its knackered and your removing it

never ever ever ever hit a bearing…unless its knackered and your removing it

There's some nice looking DIY bits here
You'll need to be logged in to see the pics

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1190007

Managed to get the lower race off…

Now just a case of deciding wether buy the stuff to fit the headset myself or go to a shop. The fork steerer needs cut down as well (this is new frame/forks).

do you suffer from parkinsons?
no – do you own a metalsaw?
yes – d.i.y.

place the headset along with the crown race in place. thread fork into place. using masking tape mark the point you need to cut by taping evenly all the way round the steerer. you want the steerer to be sit 3-5mm under the stem/spacer (place an extra spacer ontop to give yourself a bit of room in the future).
take out forks. rest on stable surface and saw along the edge of the masking tape. file off the shitty edges.
if you need to set the crown race pick up a lenght of pvc piping from your B&Q type gaff. buy a lenght that fits over the steerer with a few mm to spare. tape the bottom of the pipe to act as reinforment. bit of wood and a hammer.

if you don't own a saw, go buy one!

No buggering about with threaded bars and whacking in with th bits of wood, not even worth risking on one of those cheap on-ones !

Oh how I love to hear clueless people talk about spannering,plus I wouldn't trust my pride & joy with some bike shop person.I won't call them mechanics because they aint !

I guess you're not one to do a job properly then. Either of you.

oooooooooooo bitchy 😉 Do it yourself, way more satisfying and i concur with the mechanic comment. No need to take the forks into a shop to cut off a bit of tube and a real headset press is no different to a bit of studding, nuts and a few washers.

"never ever ever ever hit a bearing…unless its knackered and your removing it "

You're not hitting a bearing, you're hitting the cups- and not on the running surface either. Incidentally, hitting a bearing is exactly how you fit many- motorbike wheel bearings frinstance are always fitted by tapping in via the outer race. So "neve rever ever ever hit a bearing" is just plain wrong.

Oops, too late for an edit- overstated slightly there, not always fitted by tapping in, some people use a press but tapping in is the standard.

I used these bits from wickes based on an item found on london fixed gear:

Threaded Rod cut in half, so will make four presses
Stud connectorsUsed two , so enough for two presses; and
WashersI used all of these

I guess you're not one to do a job properly then. Either of you.

As I said clueless,what do you do when you get a puncture ? 🙄

I have a headset press makes the job a doddle to carry out. Also have a crown race removal tool again awesome tool. As already noted the headset press is an anti-climax for such a big tool 🙂

It's worth investing in the right tools most will last forever and means a job can be done when you want it and by you.

Tried to do it using the ghetto method.. steel rod and washers

But it just wasnt going in level for me – it kept looking too dodgy to continue

I ended up buying the Cyclus Headset Press and I was able to instantly fit it.. really happy with the tool.. would recommend it

Tried to do it using the ghetto method.. steel rod and washers

ghetto?

blah just an expression… to be fair i would of been pretty chuffed if id managed to do it using the rod/washers

🙂 I love a bodge job

unless its knackered and your removing it

for Hope hubs that would mean either rebuilding the wheel or some kind of press that fitted through the spokes…

for Hope hubs that would mean either rebuilding the wheel or some kind of press that fitted through the spokes…

Well I have actually made myself a "press" which goes through the spokes – for removing a jammed on DT freehub body. So it's far from impossible. Mind you I do normally fit hub bearings using a hammer – the point of course is not to hit through the bearing (though you shouldn't load through the bearing even if you're using a press), but to hit the side which has the interference fit. If you're pressing both onto an axle and into a hub shell then you need to be using a tool which loads the force onto both parts of the bearing!

Meanwhile I don't know why I'd buy a press when that means I miss out on the fun of making my own tools (for the hardened bike DIY enthusiast – a step up from fixing your bike is making things to fix your bike with). I'll put up a piccy of my homemade headset cup remover tool later.

Here you go – possibly the worlds only titanium headset cup remover 😀