my commuter bike has some easton ea30 riser bars fitted but i’m finding that they’re a bit onthe wide side for trying to negotiate city centre traffic, having clipped a few wing mirrors etc recently. plus for climbing i’d like the option of being able to change hand position.
for that reason i’m thinking of getting some bullhorn type bars (similar to the ones in the image).

they’d be a lot narrower and i’ll have the option of using the bull horns on the climbs
now the thing i need advice on is where do i fit my shifters and brake levers?
shimano alivio 3×9 set up so i’d need to find somewhere suitable for them and the tektro hydraulic disc levers
i was thinking of sticking the shifters and levers on the bullhorn part of the bars but this would mean the brake levers would have to go on the underside of the bars with the lever blades facing the ground….would this cause any issue with the brake fluid reservoir in the lever itself?
or should i fit them on the main section of the bar itself….assuming i can slide them on?
or should i just get some flat bars and bar ends?

See, you had the right answer all along.

See, you had the right answer all along.

i know what you mean but these would work out a lot cheaper than getting a decent flat bar and bar ends. i need to do this as cheaply as possible as mrs gonzy wont be happy seeing as i’ve spent a fair bit on the other bike recently and will take a dim view of further expenditure.

Take a hacksaw to your current bars if they really are too wide and then get a cheap set of bar-ends. You’ll have a lot less hassle trying to fit levers/shifters (are the bars the right diameter, what position can you achieve, how can you change gear when actually riding) and you’ll even save on bar tape.

If you’re clipping mirrors etc. with your bars, in some respect you need to consder what gaps you are trying to squeeze through and if thats appropriately safe cycling.

But standard flat bars and bar ends are what you need. Leave the bullhorns to the time trialers and hipsters on their fixies.

If you’re clipping mirrors etc. with your bars, in some respect you need to consder what gaps you are trying to squeeze through and if thats appropriately safe cycling.

its more a case of other riders on road bikes with drop bars cab get through the gaps but my bars are too wide for me to squeeze through. the few times i’ve tried i’ve either gone very close to or have just nicked a wing mirror with the bar plug…so i have to hang back and sit in the middle of a traffic jam.

Take a hacksaw to your current bars

i’d like to keep these bars as they are for another project i have planned

are the bars the right diameter, what position can you achieve, how can you change gear when actually riding) and you’ll even save on bar tape.

they come with bar tape supplied
the bars are the right diameter so the levers and shifters will bolt on fine. from my measurements i’ll still be ok to reach the levers if they are on the horns of the bars and when i’m riding i think my most obvious place i’ll be resting my hands will be on the bullhorns. the only adjustment i’ll have to make is to slide the saddle more forward. at the moment its pushed back as far as possible
i was hoping i could get it set up similar to this:

but the shifters would be next to the brake levers…similar to this:

i was hoping i could get it set up similar to this:

😯

Fair enough. I’ll bow out now….

came to my senses over the weekend ad decided against the fixie style bullhorn bars.
went down to my LBS and walked out with a pair of brand new Easton CNT Monkeylite SL bars for £20! 😀