This is a public service announcement:
In case anyone else wants to know, the City (45mm wide) version of PDW Full Metal fenders fit nicely on the GT Grade carbon. Stock tyres are 28s and there’s room to spare. The detachable seat stay brace allows the back to bounce a bit though, and mount for front disc side needs a little filing to clear the QR15 lever.
Bike and guards are both individually good, and together should ace winter.

I’ve got a Grade and I did think that seat stay brace being held on by rubber bands is a bad idea. I think I might fab something that actually clamps to the stays to hold the mudguard more rigidly.

Alternatively a clamp directly to the seat tube could also be feasible.

I just register just to post this, you’re the only person I had found on the internet that has a picture of GT Grade with mounted mudguard.

May I ask how you mount the fender to the chainstay and the bottom post of the fork? Did you use the eyelet hole on the GT ir did you use PDW’s mounting bits that goes on the quick release skewers.

Because on my GT Grade Carbon 105, the fender mounting eyelet hole behind the dropout and on the fork legs is of a very odd thread, on most bikes the 5mm bottle cage bolt fits in the mudguard mounting hole, but not on my Grade. 4mm bolt is too small and I dont know of any bolt size in between. I had found this odd thread on mudguard mounts on other bikes like Giant too

Because on my GT Grade Carbon 105, the fender mounting eyelet hole behind the dropout and on the fork legs is of a very odd thread, on most bikes the 5mm bottle cage bolt fits in the mudguard mounting hole, but not on my Grade. 4mm bolt is too small and I dont know of any bolt size in between. I had found this odd thread on mudguard mounts on other bikes like Giant too

M5 bottle cage bolts fitted fine on my Grade carbon. I’m guessing you have cross-threaded the bolt or the thread hasn’t been created properly.

The M5 bolts (using 4mm hex) with the PDW guards worked. I did find that the threaded holes in the forks weren’t brilliant, and I was initially afraid of stripping them. I tested using the bottle cage bolts from the bike and wound in and out until everything ran smooth. Start by hand before using the hex key and you should be fine. Alternatively if you have a tap and die set you could rethread them.
Because the hole at the crown is on the back of the fork and doesn’t run all the way through the front guard does sit a bit further back around the wheel than if you could mount from the front side. Not found it to be a problem really, apart from catching the rubber flap on steps a couple of times.

For the BB mount I used the bolt fitted to the bike, so M5.

It’s a minor thing, but I also wrapped some electrical tape around the edge of the guards where they touch the frame at chainstays and fork.

Nice close fit at the front but it will start to rub annoyingly as soon as you get any dirt on the tyre. What went wrong at the back?

Gary – at the back I can bolt at the BB shell but due to the seatstay bridge being held only by rubber bands there’s not a lot possible in terms of changing the arc to get the tail end closer to the tyre. Not found it a problem, and the width keeps stuff clean.

To be honest, I think the narrow version might be better. Particularly on the front, the hanger is sitting at end of the slot because the width between fork blades isn’t enough to raise it.

I’m sure you could get it closer to the tyre if you trimmed a couple of mm off the stays.

Sorry for the resurrection 🙂

I’m eventually going to buy an aluminium Grade and like the look of the PDW guards too, funnily enough this is still the only thread found on Google

Is anyone using PDW and could share their experiences please?

Hi. I’m still using them, and getting on ok. No problems, other than a seemingly small twist in the front, which means I can get it nicely centred over the tyre but the bottom end and flap sit over to one side.
I’m not sure if the fork on the alloy Grade goes all the way through; carbon one only has fixing on rear of crown. If it does, that should allow better positioning on the wheel.

re-resurrection – if you’re using guards on the carbon Grade, check underneath the seat stays where the removable ‘brake’ bridge fits. If you intend using guards, I’d wrap some gaffer tape around the stays first.

I found the bridge had worn grooves into the seat stays, right through the carbon and down to the fibreglass core. This after a few months of on /off road use with guards fitted. The bike went back to the distributor and then to the importer, not sure when I’ll see it again, and half expecting them to say I’ve fitted the bridge wrong or something.

Ooh … snap!
I found the same after a while, where the hard plastic bridge was wearing away the outer surface of the seat stays. Since I bought from Germany I couldn’t be bothered with returning it. I’ve bodged a solution with old inner tube between the bridge and frame, and zip tied in place, since I think the movement allowed by the o-rings was partly to blame for the fretting.
It’s a shame, as the rest of the bike seems well thought out.

Interesting IHN, the distributor acted like mine was the first they’d heard of, but I bet anyone who’s used guards has the same, to a lesser or greater degree.
I wasn’t bothered about sending mine back but the lbs insisted and loaned me their Ultegra demo (mine’s 105) in the meantime.I’ll report back here when I get an answer.

Well the importer is digging in their heels, saying either ‘guards fitted wrongly or too heavy – neither fitting instructions nor maximum mudguard weight come with the bike of course! They were 35mm* SKS Bluemels fwiw, probably towards the lighter end as far as mudguards go. So we have to talk to GT USA though I think I’d rather just have the bike back. Keep you updated…

*Not recommended btw, I’d go for 45mm if I was buying again. The 35s let loads of spray past the front ‘guard, 28c tyres fitted.

I bought an alloy Grade as it was my first road bike for many years and I wasn’t sure how much I’d use it. Almost instantly I wished I’d spent a bit more and bought the carbon 105 instead, as I loved the ride so much.
Since then though, I’m not so sure…
This story and one on Grit CX where a buckled wheel caused enough damage to the chainstay through tyre rub to write-off the frame has made me wonder about the suitability of carbon for this type of bike.
What about the rubbing of mud & grit carried on the tyres on the stays & under the fork over time and wear from luggage straps? Are they not problematic with carbon frames? (I guess the mud can’t be too much of an issue, as nearly all CX race bikes are carbon…)

You will have the same problems with Alu frames and mud, the difference is a carbon frame can typically be repaired for less than the cost of a replacement Alu frame.

You will have the same problems with Alu frames and mud, the difference is a carbon frame can typically be repaired for less than the cost of a replacement Alu frame.

Obviously you’ll get wear on any frame, but I wouldn’t stop riding an alloy frame because it was worn down to the metal and scored a bit. My brother rode a aluminium MTB frame with an actual hole in it from horrendous chainsuck and it didn’t fail. I don’t think a carbon one would have lasted long after that kind of damage.
As far as repair costs go – you may be right. I’ve no idea as I’ve never owned a carbon frame.

I’ve no idea as I’ve never owned a carbon frame.

Quite 😉

For the record, the alloy version of the Grade will take any sort of Mud guard. I’ve had a couple of SKS ones on mine, these being the most recent. shorter but the ‘lip’ on the ends seems to do a good job. Not a lot of fun for those behind though…

For what its worth, I think its one of those rare bikes that looks better with guards….

For what its worth, I think its one of those rare bikes that looks better with guards….

No bike looks good with those twin stay SKS, primarily as the rear guard is far too short. You seem to have resolved the looks issue though by ensuring its stored in a dark corner 😀

Donkis, the issue isn’t whether they fit, it’s the damage they might cause to the frame. Take off the bracket which attaches with two O rings and have a look under the seat stays to see if the bracket has worn grooves into the frame. If not, as suggested above, wrap the stays in tape or innertube offcuts.

The bracket’s obviously an afterthought; if it attached in a more secure manner it wouldn’t rattle/vibrate and wear the frame, obvious with hindsight of course.

The support ticket with the importer in NL was rejected so waiting to see what GT say now.

If anyone hears of similar problems from around the internet could you link them here? Googling doesn’t turn up anything but it would be interesting to know if they get any joy from GT.

Bob, on the alloy frame there is a proper bridge, not a strap on one…

Unless you mean where the guard attaches to the seatpost??

Ah I didn’t know that, yeah it’s the bridge where the brake would normally go.

I’m looking at getting a Carbon Grade and had planned on fitting proper guards for commuting. Slightly concerned by this.

Think it would be better to just fit some clip-on guards?

I got some SKS Velo 42 mudguards for my GT Grade FB – they fit really easily and provide good coverage with the benefit of being fairly quick to remove.
Mine is the alloy frame version though, so has the permanent bridge
GT grade

Bob Summers / IMN – could you upload any photos of the damage?

Has anyone tried fitting SKS Chromoplastics P45 mudguards to a carbon frame version? Clearance looks a bit tight to me.

I have the alloy version but thinking of upgrading to the carbon, only thing pitying me off is that rear mud gaurd bridge.how is it holding up for people?