I have gone 1×9 on my old HT, dumping an old SunTour triple with a Shimano Octalink crank set, ditching the big and granny rings keeping the 32T middle ring. I had to upgrade the casette, chain and shifter but kept the Deore rear derailleur.

I am liking the results, but I am finding that I drop the chain inside, about 2-3 times each ride. I had ditched the front mech as an impromto chain guide for a Superstar ST mount chain guide and removed a couple more links from the chain, but I am still dropping it inside when the going gets a bit rough.

Any suggestions on what I can try next? Remove a few more links, get a rampless single-speed chain ring and or look at the chain guide set-up some more?

I’d rather not shell out for a new derailleur just yet, but a clutch mech may be a longer term option.

Superstar sell various lightweight chain guides. Paul’s and Hope mak chain keepers. A thin bash disc might be enough

Bionicon C-Guide?

SS specific ring. No ramps, deeper teeth – will make a world of difference.

The SS guide you have is ok but I find something with a top and bottom guide is a million times better.

I find those Superstar/M:Part guides utterly useless, particularly the seat tube one which just isn’t up the job. You’d be better off with a Pauls/E13/MRP one, though they aren’t cheap.

but I am still dropping it inside when the going gets a bit rough.

the trick here is to keep pedalling as though you’re on a fixie, that way there’s tension on the chain and it won’t fall off.

an N-Gear jump stop and a bash guard works for me though.
http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=chng-js

Magic chainring… Thick/thin teeth like Works Components, Raceface, Wolftooth, and I think now Goldtec. Absolutely night and day difference, I’m using no guide at all on my Ragley and I’m yet to drop the chain even using it for downhill. Even with no chainguide it’s better than a normal singlespeed chainring and a chain device. And not even all that expensive.

I sound like an advert 😉 I use a Works one, it was well priced and it’s a good company, but others are available and may be just as good, better, or worse.

Hey Northwind. Are u using that works chainring with a rear clutch mech? Or standard mech?

Davieg – is your rear derailleur a long or medium cage? How much total chain links did u remove? Did you measure the chain properly (check length over big sprocket and chainwheels blah blah)?

I’m using it with a clutch, but it still seems to work with the clutch off- I haven’t given it as hard a test though.

Thanks Northwind, a Works Components chain ring sounds promising. I certainly don’t think the ramped stock chain ring is doing me any favours.

I had thought about getting an N-stop, but is that not partly what the Chain Guide should be doing?

My LBS had performed the initial chainset removal, so no I did not measure the chain. It felt ok at first but removed a couple oflinks to fit a Power link and have since removed a couple more.

The Deore mech is the original part that came with the bike, so is bound to be a long mech.

Just been for a ride on the road testing my new MTB 1×8 setup. Log cage rear mech (got a new medium cage to install), outer bash, n-stop jump guide nd standard ramped 32t chainring. Jumped up and down heaps of kerbs and some larger 1.5 ft kerb drops. Didn’t lose the chain once. Will test of road tomorrow morning.

The bike is a hardtail (Ragley mmmBop) with only 100mm front suspension. Will still prolly get one of those narrow/wide rings.

a works components ring will help, as will a clutch mech, but if you are dropping it reguarly each ride, i’d spend some time analysing your riding, especially as you have a top guide in place.

You might find that you are back pedaling to drop your lead foot on the way into sections/corners, which is allowing the chain to derail from the bottom of the chainring.

as someone else mentioned, keep tension on the chain by not backpedaling, keep pedaling forward to get your lead foot in place

Are there certain gears you are in when the chain comes off? If its jumping off on the inside, maybe its when you’re in the easier gears? HAve you checked the chainline is correct?

Dan

The Chainline looks ok. I plan to get a single speed chain ring but was wondering if there was anything I could do to the existing set-up first. Like I say, I am running a chain guide (not the best one admittedly), and have removed some links.

One of my first outings with the 1×9 set-up was at Fort William. No, not the DH, but the Witches Trails inclusing some the of the DH Red which we pushed up. I lost the chain once.

My locals trails have some great natural sections with a lot of rocks and roots. It is when bouncing over some of them, I find that I am dropping the chain. Sometimes pedalling, sometimes not and probably in my middle gears.

All I’ve done on mine is to use the minimalist Superstar chain guide and removed a couple of links which has been fine for xc riding. I’ll change to 1×10 when everythings worn out and then go for one of the thick / thin rings and a clutch mech and hopefully for what I’m riding that should negate the need for any guide. When I was first testing the idea I bodged an N stop type device with an old bit of a light bracket and that worked just fine.