I’am thinking of going tubeless with stan’s arch rims and schwelbe nobby nics
what tyres do i buy ie the tubeless ready ones?
and what else do i do ie rim strips, sealants etc
I’m a total virgin to tubeless!
And need all the advise i can get
Thanks

You’ll need:
-Stan’s yellow self adhesive tape (to seal the spoke holes)
-A valve – with a removable core: so you can top up the sealant easily (not strictly essential but highly recommended)
-Sealant
-Standard tyre – no need for tubeless ready or UST
-an inner tube (if it’s a new tyre)
-a track pump / compressor / co2 cartridge

I did this 2 weeks ago on 355 rims. As Speshneeds says that’s all you’ll need.

I had Maxxis LUST tyres and had problems getting them to inflate and seat correctly at first (This is without sealant) so I used an inner tube which got the bead on one side correctly seated which was enough that when I tried again with the inner tube removed they inflated and seated properly (I just had a floor pump as opposed a compressor/CO2 canisters).

Aside that, it really was all very easy and I wished I done it years ago.

I agree with the above but I prefer tubeless tyres. They seal better and generallyhave tougher sidewalls.

You may well need LOTS of sealant with non-UST or non-tubeless Schwalbe tyres as they have (in my experience) thin and porous sidewalls. Second Onzadog’s comment.

Maxxis Ignitors LUST on 355 rims here – inflated pretty easy with no inner tube trick needed, just a decent track pump.

Try pushing down on the centre of the tyre to encourage the beads to get as close to the edge as possible, then keep pushing the centre of the tyre down over the valve area whilst giving robust pumps with the track pump.

Note: I use standard Maxxis tyres; may be different for other brands or UST / tubeless ready.

1. Fit the Stan’s tape
2. If it’s a new tyre: fit with an inner tube, inflate and leave for as many days as you can.
3. Without putting the tyre on the ground: swap the inner tube for the separate valve, be careful to only remove the bead on one side; remove the core, but only if your using a track pump (I can’t pump hard enough / fast enough with the valve core in); pop the tyre bead back on.
4. Inflate the tyre to 40 psi to make sure it’s seated fully.

Tips if you’re using a track pump:
a) keep the wheel off the floor
b) squash the tyre with one hand around the valve so it seals somewhat whilst pumping with the other hand
c) once the tyre is seated, refit the core by using you finger to stop too much air leaking while you swap the pump for the valve core – then make sure it is up to 40psi and thus fully seated

5. Make a brew. Then fill tyre with sealant by removing the core and filling through the hole. The 60ml Stan’s bottles make this easy with their pointed cap. Again: keep the wheel off the ground, in the frame or something.

Tip
d) spin the wheel so that valve is at 9 o’clock, put the sealant bottle to the valve and rotate wheel to 6 o’clock whilst filling. Reverse to take the bottle off = less sealant everywhere!

6. Inflate tyre, then spin and shake to coat the inside with sealant. Flick the wheel to get sealant down to any leaking areas. Lying the wheel on one side can help.

7. Go for a spin, to make sure there’s a good coating of sealant inside and keep an eye out the tyre doesn’t go down over the next couple of days. Once it’s ‘bedded-in’ should be worry free.

Thanks specializedneeds
P.s. did you get pics of headset?

Not yet….
🙂

Edit: found them: spam folder.

If you can’t find the yellow tape in your size or you don’t want to pay, good quality electric tape works almost exactly the same (half of my wheels are done up with yellow tape, the other half with lx, couldn’t tell you which without looking). It’s slightly less durable is all (easier to damage it when removing the tyres)

Get Nobby Nic EVO – designed to be tubeless ready. Got a fat albert evo to seal really easily with no faff at all…