I’ve recently purchased a Pitch Pro (medium if you’re interested from my thread a few weeks ago!). I’ve had a couple of rides on it and I love it. However, I seem to be getting a lot of pinch flats with the stock Eskar Tyres. I’m thinking about going tubeless will this help?

Also what do I need to make the convert?

Thanks
D

Depends how you want to do it/how much you want to spend.

I'm guessing they're not tubeless wheels, so you could go ghetto, or you could do it using the proper kit.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/No_Tubes_Standard_Tubeless_Kit/5360027629/

Or with ghetto, you just use a bmx inner tube instead of the rim strips, and buy sealant separately. Or there's another method where you just use tape and a valve I think…?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18703

should work with most tyres even if they're not marked 'tubeless ready' but I've not got direct experience of the Eskar ones.

Going tubeless will stop the pinch punctures for sure. However that fact that you are getting so many suggests that the pressure is to low and/or the style is a bit heavy. First thing to do is put more air in the tyres get them closer to 40 PSI and then look at your style to see if you can "lift" the bike over the obstacles more.

Cheers guys

Some useful stuff here. The tyres are marked tubeless ready.

When I first got an FS, I was warned by STW users about getting a lot of pinch flats due to the higher speeds – they were right!

I ghettoed the standard Nevs and it worked great until they wore out. But my last two attempts at ghettoing failed. Heyho.

I’ve been gradually upping the PSI to around 38 and I still get punctures mainly on the back. I’m not heavy at just over 10 stone, though I am quite clumsy! and ride rocky trails

I recently converted the wheels on my 2010 Stumpjumper & they seem to be working well so far.

Your tyres should be branded 2Bliss?

All i did was:

replace the rim tape with electrical tape after cleaning the rim with IPA to de-grease it.
I ran some around one inside edge, then shifted over & did the other edge. It was suggested on here last week that it might have also been worth doing a third run around the centre of the rim to reinforce the whole lot.

Got some valves from LBS and fitted them after running a fair amount of ptfe tape around the base.

Tried inflating the tyre with a track pump (which worked) and checked for rim/valve leaks by sticking wheel in the bath.

Deflated tyre, stuck Stan's in and re-inflated. They've stayed up for 2 weeks now with no further inflation required.

Will be testing them in Spain for a week from Saturday – hopefully they'll hold up!!

This method works a treat but used stans as the sealant.

Ghetto-ed a pair of Spank Spike wheels and Maxxis Igniters.

Hi Vinte, By your own admission you tend to be a heavy rider on the rocks. In laymans terms you clatter through the rocks. I would suggest you spend some time on the style of your riding so that you float rather that clatter. This will help your speed as you will be quicker through the rocky section as well as your wheels. Tubeless may stop the pinch punctures but I reckon you may just move on to bending rims.

I see, so levitation is the key. So any tips? How do you float down a rocky lake district bridleway. I’m ok at hoping over the odd erratic boulder but what if the whole trail is jagged rock how do you float?

http://www.notubes.com/movieinstall.php

shows you what to do !!