Getting ghost shifting on a FS. Currently got cable stops in use with bare cables etc..at the last intersection before the rear mech. Probably going to run a full length cable from shifter to mech. Question is does the cable need to be fixed and unable to slide like the present bare cable or could I just run a full length cable zip tying it to the frame, either allowing a sliding cable ( for rear travel movement ) or a fixed cable ( (ie zip ties tightened up).

Sounds like not enough inner cable length to cope with the travel compression/extension.

My old Superlight has part outers with stops and has run fine for the last 13 years so long as i dont cut the inner cable too short, i.e. leave an extra bit inbetween the down tube stop and the swing arm stop.

If you’ve replaced your inner cable recently and the ghost shifts have occurred since, then I would wager this is the reason.

Hope this helps

thanks. Makes sense. Just thought while I was sorting it out I’d include the addition of full length outers.

Get busy with a needle file or dremel. I did it on a few frames to run full length outer. Masking or electrical tape around the cable guides in case the dremel slips.
Ghost shifting sound like the outer is too short and the suspension compressing is pulling the cable during travel

Full length cable outer is miles better. I don’t know why more manufacturers don’t build frames with this in mind. They probably live somewhere dusty.

Thanks. Not sure if I want to modify the frame. I know you can get clamps with cable stop inserts for full length outers. I’ll just make sure there long enough this time.

You sure can.
Currently using them to route my reverb
cable guide

Jagwire do some nice adapters that sit in the cable guide and allow full length outers to run.

thanks all. Clamps look great.

Dremelling done well is much tidier IMO

You can run full outers in stops with flak jackets

Those aren’t full outers…there is a ‘jacket’ sitting over the cable rather than being a continuous cable run…