fieldmarshal- got an email from a guy following my classifieds ad, its being resprayed as a blue so not sure if its availible elsewhere in that colour.

"The problem mentioned above with track ends and disc brakes and rearward movement is easily solved – tighten the locknuts on the rear hub properly"

yeah we were aware that disc forces can cause the axle to shift in theory but in reality it only happened under hard braking if we didn't do the bolts up very tight at all. a tester got it to shift by doing trials-style lunges against the brake onto a small stump, but apart from that it's been issue-free and our resident team rider / ss nutter Paul has had no issues while riding 3 or 4 x what i could manage in a very busy year )

walla24, no need for a bolt-thru hub as in 12mm stds, just a solid 10mm axle with nuts or bolts i/o a QR axle. most if not all SS hubs have this now.

I think we're basically saying the same thing, james-o 🙂

[edit] I forgot to add – those of you who get a bit annoyed with the grub screws in the track ends might want to try what I did – I got the right size Nyloc nut and screwed it on to the end of the grub screw. It's not as neat as a Paul thumbscrew, but it does make it much easier to adjust the tension without a teeny allen key. It's one of the only things I want to change with my frame – get some nice thumbscrews rather than the allen headed grubs that it comes with.[/edit]

Oh, and a pic:

I originally ran my Io (a frame only I put bits onto, rather than a complete bike) with a Hope XC cassette hub with a Salsa QR. I had the hub move *once* under heavy braking after I failed to do the QR up tight enough. I've since changed to a DMR SS hub which can take bolts or a QR, and since it came with bolts, I used those – and haven't had a problem since.

I run Hope Mono Minis on this bike, and don't need to loosen the caliper before removing the rear wheel. I've run Oro K 18s as well, and they don't need to be loosened either. The Oros are easier to set up, as there's no need to shim the caliper, and you can align the caliper to the disk accurately when tightening the chain, as track ends do mean you can have the rear wheel ever so slightly off the centre line.

If you take the rear wheel out a lot, then track ends might not be the perfect option. I had to drop my rear wheel out yesterday to change the pads, and, frankly, once you know the drill, it's a simple, quick job that allows you to sort chain tension at the same time. It took me longer to find the spare pads than it did to change them out.

it's for sale 🙂

🙄 Surprise!

lol

Fieldmarshall: just dumping the chain bends the drive side chain tug assuming you have enough chain tension. I'd wager that if you can just dump the chain, yours is too slack.

James-o – just noticed you mention adding new thumbscrews to the new Ios, and that they might be available aftermarket. Any idea on what they'd look like? I tried adding wingnuts to the grub screws on mine, but they foul the frame; a Paul-style head would definitely get my vote…

DMR chain tugs? I've got some but not fitted yet but they look good.

guys…. im am having a massively hard time deciding which to get!!!!
i can get an io frame for £150 now in silver as new or a vgc wanga frame for roughly the same.
Ok i want the io because its ss specific, you can alter chainline easily and it is beatiful and rides nice. Im against it because of the annoyance of the track ends as i remove wheels frequently to get in cars etc, also it sounds like a qr on the rear is a bad idea.

I want the wanga because its red (didnt really want a silver frame) the fancy sliding dropouts look really clever esp. as i take the wheel off a lot. Also i dont have to worry about calliper allignment and i can put gears back on.
I dont have any cons for the wanga..other than maybe the sliding dropout looks a bit naff?

not that im asking stw to choose my next build…but what the eck shall i do?????

will be run with black rebas, black rims and a snow camo bar/stem combo…might look better on silver??

help me out people! doing my head in

+1 for the wanga I like the ride and the dropouts never know you might get sore knees and want gears 💡

right after much! deliberation im going to get the wanga:
i can pretty easily put gears on it,
its lush red,
sliding dropouts….sorted

Good – and a good choice. To be fair, both are great frames, and I'm sure you'll have a great time with the Voodoo.

and voodoo owners get an ivite http://www.flickr.com/groups/1085386@N25/

and here for anyone this is why i ride, a group on flickr

bent udder – some larger headed allen bolts on thier way soon. thumbscrews tba – proving tricky..

love that 69er.. there's a full-on snow bike iO going up on the genesis news section of the site soon. how's it ride, what's the fork? did a conversion with a pace carbon fork on mine and loved it, it's started up a few projects here..

that voodoo in the pic looks veeeery steep at the front end, are they or is it the pic?

James-o – sounds cool!

The 69er was excellent, and I loved every minute of riding it. Sadly, I only have so much room in my shed, so the forks and wheel (and a lot of other stuff) had to go.

The forks were Singular Sam's Hummingbird forks – the numbers for the 16" Hummingbird and Io are quite similar, and I know the Hummingbird as a 69er rides very well. The rake is a little longer than normal, but Sam's your man for the speeds and feeds. All I know is that it felt as good as running a pair of Rebas on the front in terms of responsiveness – the steering was just right with a 75mm stem on the 16" size.

By the way, one reason I like the Nyloc fix is that the flats give some grip if you're turning them by hand. A bigger Allen head would be helpful, but some knurling on the outside would be great as well. Here's a pic:

similar to the bolt i found last week, just trying to find source in Taiwan.. knurled / grip head with simple screwdriver slot. same with allen head would be ideal.

Magic – I shall be waiting for those to arrive with cahs clutched in my sweaty mitt. 🙂