Im looking to lay approx 25 sq metres of decking to cover an existing patio and leave enough left over for a platform leading to the garage door.
I also want to build a few raised planters out of the same material.

Where’s the best place to start for info and best place for lowest prices?
I understand principle on building frame work and laying boards, but im unclear on best method of fixing to rear wall (if needed).
Would be nice if it had some longevity so it still looks good when we decide to move house, but any tips on sourcing budget materials appreciated.

Smash a few ribs now it’ll save you ripping up the decking after you’ve done it on that. I get several people each year who’ve slipped on it and cracked ribs. First thing they do after recovering is rip it up.

Look at EcoDeck – wood plastic composite material. Forget all that nonsense about yearly maintenance…

sj

I put mine in about 8 years ago, and still looks like new – but then I build like Isambard Kingdom Brunel…

Don’t ponce around with balancing on bricks etc, I sunk 4″x4″‘s into concrete and then bolted a frame on – before adding thick deck boards.

Baton’s were bolted to the house/garage/consevatory walls using special bolts from Screwfix.

Planters I made from 2″x2″, can barely lift them empty 😳

Same here, baton across the back wall, 4×4 post sunk in lines (you can get three out of an 8 ft post) concreted in and then built a frame , loosely bolted to wall baton then with spirit level to get straight I then sunk coach bolts all over to secure, I used. 5×2 for the frame joists with chocks/ noggins in between then boarded the top, I kept the perimeter posts tall to use as a balustrade , been up 10 years now- used it about 4 times!
Get an alligator saw for cutting unless you have access to a proper chop saw
Probably over engineered mine as it can hold about 50 people!!

I built 50 sqm last March, lots of planning = easy life but hard work.

I was blessed with lovely weather. Use joist hangers to attach to a wall but you have to leave 10mm gap if above the damp course.

Have a look on http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk for videos and advice.

For posts i used 4″ x 4″ 1 meter in the ground, 2″ x 6″ joists. Totally solid had many parties last year on it, wish i’d have sunk a jacuzzi in it now..

Heres photos of mine during construction:

Base work is the most important part.
I sourced all the wood off a guy on Ebay – 38mm decking for less than Wickes 22mm delivered!
5×5 mts will all the joists, screws, deck planks, etc – £550 delivered to the door.

splendid, thanks chaps.

was that a 10mm gap between decking boards and wall if securing above damp course?

If you look at my 2nd picture you can see a 6″ x 2″ joist running all the way along the house under the patio doors. This needs to be away from the wall if above the damp course so water can run down the wall. Fix the joist hangers to this.

I used these for the gap x 4 for each fixing:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/square-plate-washer-50mm-x-m12-pack-of-50/28801?_requestid=3323060

And to secure to wall these:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fwa-throughbolts-10-x-130mm-pack-of-25/30103

Listen to Drac, he speaks sense. My old garden was on a few different levels so when my lad was born i thought i’d deck it to make it all on one level. It was fine in summer as it was a good summer that year, as soon as it became wet he was slipping over for fun on it.

Good work flip!

I built a roughly 3 x 3 standalone decking 2 summers ago.

Spend plenty of time getting a good quality frame built and you can’t go wrong I built mine out of 5″x2″ bearers spaced about 300mm apart with extra batons going between the jousts.

It ridiculously over built and rock solid. No maintenance apart from a light sand and restain every spring

EDIT Leave a gap between the deck booard to allow for the wood to expand and contract. It also sensible to have a slight slope to the decking (one that shows up with a level but you can’t really see) to allow for easier runoff of water

Nothing to add that not already been said, use 4″ posts. And use good quality materials, i.e. dont try and do it on the cheap as you will regret it unless you are moving next year!!

Might surprise you how much it will all cost.

Best method for fixing to the wall are those bolts that you screw in with a spanner (I have absolutely no idea what hey are called). Basically you drill a hole in the brick then get a spanner on to them – the bolt is only everso slightly oversized than the hole drilled so there is very little chance of them exploding the brick.

I’m sure Stoner will be able to tell you what they are called.

All the sub frame and any wood sunk into the ground really needs to be pressure treated. Otherwise it matters not how many times you re-coat the top it will rot from the ground up! Pressure treated wood isn’t all that expensive, for an idea on prices check my local suppliers site:

http://tfmsuperstore.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&filter_name=treated%20timber

Best method for fixing to the wall are those bolts that you screw in with a spanner (I have absolutely no idea what hey are called).

Wall bolts

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fwa-throughbolts-10-x-130mm-pack-of-25/30103

Leave a gap between the deck booard to allow for the wood to expand and contract.

5mm use bits of old hardboard.

All the sub frame and any wood sunk into the ground really needs to be pressure treated

Indeed, also when you postcrete them in make sure the concrete runs away from the post so water doesn’t collect and rot it.

Wall bolts – that’ll be them, although ours look a bit different to those. Ours is suspended entirely using those to all four sides. It is slightly bouncy in the centre but I intend to fix that when I lift a couple of planks up in the spring to repair some uplighters.

flip – I think you’ve misheard someone name them. Theyre more commonly named “Rawlbolts” after the branded product by Rawlplug.

http://www.rawlplug.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=25

Theres loads of other names for them like anchors, sleeve anchors, sleeve bolts etc.