Morning all,

Has anyone else experienced the angle bolt being so tight you feel like you are going to break the light undoing it? The one on the main light body not the bar clamp.

I want to angle it slightly more to the right than its current position from the factory and it is so tight I feel like I’m going to either round the allen head or damage the light?

Seem to remember mine was very tight and loosened with a crack when I undid it

It’s got locktite on the bolt. I loosened my recently with a ATB. 🙂

Just give it a bit more oomph and apply some more threadlock before you nip back up or it’ll get loose whilst riding

I’d apply light concentrated heat to the bolt to soften the loctite.

The 4mm countersunk head( assuming they still use those) can’t take much torque before rounding.

Cheers guys.

I’m going to leave it and take it back to the shop. That way if it rounds they can be the ham-fisted monkeys explaining to USE what happened.

Expected a bit more from a £400 light!

Could be like the olden days. Self assembly but then Muppets didn’t have loctite so assembled dry and complained when the bolt would come loose making the light rotate.

They can’t really win.

well they could apply the correct amount/correct grade of loctite, then everybody wins… 😉
it only takes someone to run out of 222 and have someone give them 290 as a substitute without knowing the difference. or the procedure may only specify ‘loctite’ without the grade, or something. people are people and companies are full of ’em. doesn’t make a company bad as a whole if one person makes a mistake.

There we go Paul.

Internet says it’s the wrong loctite.

M3 hex head is nominal torque for m3 counter sunk bolt is 2.48nm

Use say torque to 5nm

Break out for 230 is a bit over 10irc.

Or 243 is 24nm for a 5nm torqued m4.

That would account for why chilled is feeling like it will round out

Just crack it open. If your hex key is good quality then it shouldn’t round off. There is no thread lock, just a high torque setting.

ell they could apply the correct amount/correct grade of loctite, then everybody wins…

Go on then what is the correct grade and what is the “wrong one” that exposure are using? how have you tested this to find out?

Expected a bit more from a £400 light!

God forbid you have to undo and do up a bolt on a light that cost £400, you would be astounded to find out I had to adjust the suspension pressure on my own bike that cost £2k…

It is M4 hex

I might be wrong as I don’t have my light to hand but I thought it was a 4mm hex flat head on an m3 thread. But even if it’s an m4 thread it’s still a snifter under 4 for the optimum on a stainless fitting

Flat head hex’s being shallower than a cap head and having less torque capacity

But more so the point was that even light loctite increases the break out torque required to a factor above that of the capacity of the fitting. Hence the sugestion of localised heat to melt the loctite.

Puzzled, it comes set to point directly forward, why would you want to change angle ?

I might be wrong as I don’t have my light to hand but I thought it was a 4mm hex flat head on an m3 thread.

We are both wrong. It is 4mm hex and M5 thread.

Flat head hex’s being shallower than a cap head and having less torque capacity

It is Tapered head and has bundles of torque capacity.

Expected a bit more from a £400 light!

If it is not tightened up sufficiently It will vibrate loose and point in the wrong direction or worse separate from your bike.

Hence the sugestion of localised heat to melt the loctite

There is no thread lock.

Judgmental singletrack world never fails to deliver…

Trust me guys this is so tight it feels like I’m going to break the light.

It’s going back to the shop for them to break so there is no warranty quibble.

It hasn’t come perfectly straight, it’s slightly angled and it’s more than I want it to be.

Honestly mate it just needs to be cracked open. I have had to do this on two Stradas to point them left a bit. It may even creak a bit. This bolt is tightened with a high torque as it takes the weight of the whole light and handle bars vibrate which in turn transfers through the clamp then through this bolt.

Judgmental singletrack world never fails to deliver…

Trust me guys this is so tight it feels like I’m going to break the light.
Instead of being so judgmental your self try accepting the help of people that have experience of your problem and actually have a bit of mechanical know how…
Keyboard fingers are not a good torque wrench. 😉

I managed to crack mine open, it did take a fair effort to do. Good sharp hex key essential,

I’m going to leave it and take it back to the shop.

sounds like a nice easy solution. don’t blame you if you’re worried about screwing it up.
enjoy the light – they’re great.

Update:

Used a breaker bar and a 4mm Allen socket with a swift motion it cracked open and didn’t round the head.

Phew.

Cheers for the input gents.

Singlespeedstu I’m unsure how to quote text in replies so I can see how my response seemed like I was being a keyboard warrior.. it was however aimed at ‘wiggles’ rather judgemental response earlier up the page not at everyone being helpful.

P.S. I haven’t done it up anywhere near as tight and it’s still done up tight now.

Puzzled, it comes set to point directly forward, why would you want to change angle ?

If the bars are swept back then the angle will need to be changed so that it’s not pointing into the hedge.

Of course an alternative approach would have been to adjust the stem so that the light is pointing forwards, bars may end up a little wonky but reduces the risk of damage to the light.

Puzzled, it comes set to point directly forward, why would you want to change angle ?

Bars are swept, running it markedly off centre, shits and giggles? All sorts of reasons.

chilled.
Glad you’ve got it sorted.
They are great lights aren’t they.
Used mine for the first time yesterday and well impressed with it.

If the bars are swept back then the angle will need to be changed so that it’s not pointing into the hedge.

…..they aren’t going to be angled immediately beside the stem where the clamp goes though are they.

Chilled, glad you got it sorted, and glad you eventually got the light you wanted !

Chilled, just keep an eye on it, now you have adjusted it.My previous Maxx D kept working loose, so that occasionally I’d have a searchlight on the front of the bike

P.S. I haven’t done it up anywhere near as tight and it’s still done up tight now.

Chilled, just keep an eye on it, now you have adjusted it.My previous Maxx D kept working loose, so that occasionally I’d have a searchlight on the front of the bike

You really should tighten it to how it was or at least as tight as you can.