finest – Wishart’s in Leith, if you;re willing to try amazing food and pay for it, plus it’s quite formal but not stuffy if that makes sense (about £300 for a couple for dinner and drinks)
otherwise – Restaurant Castle Terrace – closer to £200 for a couple, still amazing but by any measure still expensive, If you can do a lunchtime it’s astounding value (but still budget £120-£150)
nearly as expensive, not quite as good
– Ondine – seafood dominates, great location. Oyster bar good as you get some chat from staff, tables more forma.
– Timberyard – modern scottish, inventive, good cocktails and small plates. Not remotely formal.
– Azile – quite adventurous, take-me-leave-me service but food is great
Less expensive – there’s whole tier of great places, my top pics (£80-120 per couple including driinks):
– Blackfriars – great modern food, not pretentious, epic service, great beer, small but well formed wine list, though quite adventurous; menu is reasonably game heavy,
– La Garrigue – most French restaurant I’ve been to outside l’hexagon. Provincial French, super food and service and great wine list. Ask questions about food and wine, they will love you forever if you show an interest and care about what you eat. Set lunch is easily best value meal in town
– First Coast – great modern scottish bistro. Again, brilliant service and great food
– Cafe Marleyne. The one on Thistle Street seems better, small menu, very french, always good.
Less expensive, still great
– L’escargot Bleu, Broughton St (French traditional – think snails/ terrines/ steak/ coq au vin)
– Contini, George St. Italian – greta pizza, pasta, house dishes. Hard to go wrong.
Snacks/ lighter meals
– Burger meats bun, Forth St
– Urban Angel, Hannover St (great for brunch)
– Coletti and Co, Lothian Rd (great for Brunch/ Lunch).
I’d tip Castle Terrace, La Garrigue, Blackfriars and First Coast of that lot but hope you wouldn’t be upset with any of them.