Bit more info that may be helpful:
thats from my post below.
I was going to link that photo when i saw it but i had issues with the hub.... i.e. missing spoke hole.
Doesn't help with the hub, but Magura do a setup with one lever to 2 calipers:
You're sure the Zee lever has twice the volume/pull as std levers?
AFAIK 4 pot calipers often use smaller pistons and hence the same lever.
Not sure at all, working off the assumption of larger piston area at the calipers so would be more suited to run two than the standard lever. Not an unfair assumption I dont think, hopes bores seem similar although that doesnt mean jack all about the piston area depending on the design as Ive never had one apart.
Ive got an adaptor for a non disc hub to convert it to a disc. Its made up of a flange that bolts the the hubs original flange with a 6 bolt disc part to bolt to. Ill try and dig it out and get a photo up.
kevs, something like this I assume, it could solve my 4 cross spoke length issues.
Very similar to that, was bought for a go kart project years ago and sat in the shed ever since.
sorry about the crappy pics, but most amazingly was that fact i found it in the tip of a shed.
Why 4 cross?
I have to say I am not with you on your assumption. Any 4 pot calipers I've seen has way smaller pots. Do the Zee levers look any different to other shimano ones? You'd expect them to if you are correct...
The 4 cross is based mainly on trying to build a stiff a wheel as possible, penny farthing riders seem to use 4/5 cross most (although some use up to 7 cross) to build a strong wheel over that diameter. Seems the most sensible idea to me, more cross -> stronger wheel, especially if I am using the equivalent of a 360mm disc.
It is a pretty large assumption, I admit but its either that or my even crazier idea that I am trying to figure out of a positive pressure brake booster system, which will produce many OTB moments.
Looks pretty similar to the one I've seen as well. Have you ever had it fitted? How well does it/does it not clear the caliper??
never had it fitted as such im afraid, was used in such a way with sprockets instead of discs to have a certain gear without ground clearance issues. similar to the way guy martins speed bike had two bottom brackets.
how's about a bump for this thread maximus?
project still going?
My contribution although it's probably a year too late: if trying to use a double-fixed hub with screw-on discs, one of those threads will be the wrong way round and you'll completely rely on the lock ring to hold it on. Doesn't sound safe to me.
I do like the idea of bastardising two Deore hubs though. There can't be much torque going through the centre barrel so some epoxy & carbon matting would probably do the job nicely.
some epoxy & carbon matting would probably do the job nicely.
Now that sounds like job for me!
the project is still going, about to purchase spokes and rims after speaking with my wheel builder. When these guys get back to me then I will use their system on a ambrosia zenith double fixed track hub. My thinking being if its good enough for track riders to brake against a lock ring then it is good enough for me (probably fine), and I will use thread lock on both the adapter and the lock ring. As it is a track hub with cartridge bearings I will be making my own lockring/nylon washer to provide a hope style shield from mud to avoid having to strip it down after every ride. I am still waiting for broaklands to tell me if I should buy the phil wood/campy lockring of the ISO, seen as sheldon says that ISO is the campy standard and JIS is the shimano *confused*.
I have a hope pro 2 evo trials rear hub now ready to build up for the rear wheel and I have some 2010 boxxer crowns to make my forks with to avoid having to buy a crown race cutter, thankfully the hub fits in between the stanchions so it *should* be an easy fix. Weirdly I will also be making my own stem, two of them infact, to attach to the stanchions rather than the standard clamping point for bars (think the way clip on aero bars work).
I am going to use 3 (yes 3) BB7 road calipers as that is what I have lying around, I have the brake levers (some chepo tektro ones from on one) now and will use something similar to a jteck double pull adapter to pull both levers and equal amount, again this is something I will make.
The rest of the build is still going, currently trying to validate some of the FEA testing on a formula student car, once this has been done then I am confident that a bicycle will be validated as well given how simple it is in comparison. I have decided on using plain gauge T45 tubing as its cheaper and I will be using fat bike standards at the rear end (100mm BB and a 135mm rear hub offset by 15mm, think a surly pugsley) which means I can split the seat tube to make it look a bit like a fork and have some super slammed chainstays to make it not handle like a boat. Need to finish deciding on geometry (which I will be going over to mtbr for advice on, as they seem to know their stuff) then I will be able to buy tubes and get brazing!
Sorry for the essay but you did ask
Oli - you are getting no where near this build!
edit: almost forgot! I am moving away from 4x and to 3x because I can only buy the length of spoke required for 3x, I am having to vary nipple size to build the wheel properly, which is fun.
Oli - you are getting no where near this build!
Oli - you are getting no where near this build!:cry:
I feel like adding in carbon would definitely be an improvement. No chance at all of it disintegrating half way around Cannock!
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