I’m thinking about goiing double up front and am contemplating something like an FSA Comet double crankset. In terms of shifters and mech, will my Shimano LX be OK to use or will I need something double-specific (in fact do double-specific front mechs and shifters exists?)
Thanks
Los

Just keep your current chainset and swap the big ring for a bashguard.
You might want to increase the size of the “middle” to 36 t at the same time.
You don’t need any different shifters or mech. Just move the big ring limit screw in as required.

Thanks, forgotten all about the limit screw!

set limit screw, possibly lower the mech slightly as it no longer has to shift onto a bigger ring. You can also shorten your chain.

I didnt bother going up to a 34/36, my theory being half the reason I ditched the big ring is I didnt use it off road as by the time Im spinning out a 32T middle front I’m using gravity and I wont miss the top gears. Has the benefit of saving on cost.

Just keep your current chainset and swap the big ring for a bashguard.
You might want to increase the size of the “middle” to 36 t at the same time.
You don’t need any different shifters or mech. Just move the big ring limit screw in as required.

Depends on the ratios you’re after, but yes you can just use all your existing parts and put some new rings on. Personally I liked 28/40, but now just use a 36t single and find it great. YMMV.

As Munqe-chick, but will also add that having now gone 10spd with 36t cassette my granny ring has become redundant. Granted, it wont suit everyone though but for Cannock its fine.

Only get a bash if your current big ring suggests you need it, otherwise its a waste.

To add a different perspective on this…

I converted my SLX triple cranks and FD to 22/36 & bash by buying a deore 36T and Raceface bash ring. Had all sorts of issues – chain rubbing on FD cage, chain rubbing on 36T ring when in 22T ring, dropped chain, real clunky shifts, despite lots of fine tuning…..

I realised Shimano sell a double specific SLX crankset and FD for a reason – so I shelled out the money to find out what was so special about the M665. The main difference is in the design of the 36T chainring, and the double FD. The former has a narrower profile to prevent it interfering with the chain when you’re in the 22T and trying to use the small end of the cassette. Secondly, the shifting ramps are very different, to help the chain up from the 22T, and preventing it overshooting on the way back down. Meanwhile, the shape of the FD cage is wider just where you need it to be to get the whole range of travel while in the 36T, but narrower where it needs to be to stop the chain coming off the 22T. Full marks to Shimano for re-designing these things for a double specific application, rather than trying to make do with standard kit.

Bottom line is you can keep the existing FD, and swap out your 32T for any old 36T, but you may well get shifting/rubbing issues like I did. Next best solution is just buying the M665 36T chainring and double specific FD to fit to your current setup. But, hey, the full SLX double is real cheap on CRC at the moment, and you get the bash guard and a new BB thrown in – so that’s what I’d recommend based on my experience.

PS: Contrary to advice above, if you keep your current LX FD and fit a 36 in place of the 32, you will need to RAISE the FD a little, not lower it. This is because the chain is riding higher on the 36 and brings it into a narrower part of the FD cage, and you can’t get the whole range of gears without serious rubbing. Raising the cage puts the chain back in a wider part of the cage. Just one more reason for getting the double specific FD IMHO

thanks all, very helpful. I’m off to CRC…

Sorry, should clarify that the issues I was getting were due to the particular combination of 22/36 stretching the geometry of the front setup beyond what it was designed for. If you stick to closer ratios like the standard 22/32, or others like 26/38, 28/40 mentioned above, then you probably won’t experience those issues, and could well get away with a standard triple FD dialed in, and standard chainrings.

But, if you’re going 22/36 then it WILL push the limits of standard chainrings and FDs, and I recommend going to the Shimao M665 group which has been re-designed specifically for a wide ratio double setup.

If you have rear suspension be careful lowering your front mech. You could find the mech hits your chain stay.

I got on fine with a standard XT front mech but I’ve still swapped my bikes to SLX doubles, they’re much easier to set up for 22-36 and they do shift just a little better. TBH I’d be happy enough with either though.

I run a 24 / 38 ring set up with chain device and bash on my reign and a 24 / 36 set up with chain device and bash on my gt ruckus run about, both work great and can take a lot of rough stuff!

bash worth it if only to avoid chainring tattoos (or totally torn open calves if youve seen that stomach churning thread) and was my motivation for dropping the big ring for a bash and going 2×9 (never use the big ring but it has permanently scarred me, so not a great choice of kit!)

As Munqe-chick. My bashguard arrived today and was fitted with a bit of filing in a few minutes.