Are there any advantages in using both, or will the tugs be surplus to requirements.

ta

Yes, use both as you will end up with huge SS legs and you will be able to pull the drive side forward under the extreme load of your soon to be deformed legs. Run 32:16 gear as its the SS law. Oh and don't go back to gears…… 8) ever.

yes and not surplus to requirements. Will also make it easier to reset chain tension when you have to take the wheel out.

I use a tug and a QR on my MTB SS, the tug stops it getting dragged forward by my piston like legs, but I can still get the wheel out for punctures without having to have remembered to stick a spanner in my camelback.

On my road SS, I just use a QR done up bastard tight. Its probably silly, but if you do it up so tight you need to stand on it to close the cam, it dosn't drag forwards. QR hasn't snapped either in the 3 years I've been running it.

CBA with bolts, they're a drag.

Cheers. Using a qr at the moment, but the nds is slipping back due to braking forces. The skewer is an Easton (as are the wheels) and a standard shimano doesn't go through the hub, even though they look exactly the same to the eye.

Will try the "stand on the cam" approach to get it properly tight.

is there a knack for setting the wheel right with a qr and a tug as im struggling to get chain tension ive had ebb before and it was easy

cheers

I use tugs, but the axle on my hubs will take allen bolts instead of a skewer. QR alone didn't cut it for me

is there a knack for setting the wheel right with a qr and a tug as im struggling to get chain tension ive had ebb before and it was easy

Do you have 2 tugs or one?

Insert wheel

Pull wheel right back

Run tug nut forward until the wheel is balanced in stays

Lock up the QR.

Make sure both the tugs are nipped up tightish.

Be aware that iff you just tighten the DS tug to get good chain tension, then bring the NDS tug back to balance the wheel up, your chain will be overtight, and vice versa. Try to balance them both up equally until tension is good. Or if just using one tug, pull the wheel back firmly so the NDS dosn't slip when you do up the QR.

just using the one. will try some more . takes some practice lol thanks

Its easy when you have the knack.

Will try the "stand on the cam" approach to get it properly tight.

Well you're standing on the QR lever blade to force the cam over, but its only recommended if you have no regard for your paintwork or bartape, and can still get your heel behind the lever to force it off again.

I'm pretty certain you won't need a chain tug with a bolt axel. The whole point of the bolt is so that it can been done up tighter that a quick release. At least I hope I will still think this after my simple/pro II SS maiden voyage!!

Errrr !!!!

Errrr !!!! I'm pretty certain you will need a chain tug and a bolted hub !!! Well only based on riddng SS in all conditions, up most hills and for the last several years…….. Starts to wave willy about 😈

Two chaintugs and bolted axles for me, on a track end SS frame.

Depends on the frame and the bolts in question. I run just a nutted axle in most cases, but on one particularly shiny paintjob, the wheel still kept dragging forwards so I had to use chaintugs.

Each to their own, I don't bother with tugs. Might if they were cheap but never needed them so far. Thats with a QR. Bloody tight though. I use an old steel Campag one on my Singlecross. Maybe its the gearing , I run 42 18 or occasionally 16. the hills here in the FoD are steep enough for me to stall out occasionally but the axle doesn't move.
Anyone explain using science not guess work why roadies don't use tugs. After all the forces are not different using gears . Ignoring the fact that often lower gears are often but not always used.