Got a wee warning light.

I’m fairly sure i kniw what its going to be but it’d be nice to not chase the exact cause through replacing parts.

So would the code reader help?

Ould it help in gereal and what should i look at getting?

Code readers always help.

Given how cheap they are now you might as well.

Torque app and a Bluetooth socket will get you a bit more functionality for budget price range.

It really depends on the car, give us a clue.
If it’s a mk3 fiesta, for instance, then no.
If it’s a turn of the century BMW, then yes, you’ll need one so you know for certain when the autobox has crapped itself.

Good point vw tdi 2006 had meant to put that.

Then almost certainly yes! 😀

Code readers don’t always identify the fault. They can give an indication, but they may be picking up something which isn’t working properly because of a fault elsewhere.

Following the advice of a code reader blindly without understanding the operation of the thing you’re looking at can often be as expensive as blindly replacing things it might be or asking for advice on forums where people may not know the full details.

VWs in particular can give all sorts of random codes if there’s a connection issue with the crank position sensor (for example)

So use it but dont trust it?

Would seem a sensible approach!

timber –
Torque app and a Bluetooth socket

If you’ve got an Android phone then the above is very useful.
Could be something minor, you can always look up the code/reason.
My RX8 used to throw up O2 sensor fault codes because the CAT had been swapped for a straight through pipe 😈
Easy enough to clear the codes and see if/when they return.

I’ve got a cheap VAG one, it was worth it’s money on my old Passat as that used to throw up the odd random error generally just before mot time. Clear them and they wouldn’t come back for six months.

Also which light? Abs engine airbag? Not all code readers will access all things. Age of car will also be a consideration when getting a code reader.

Engine warning.

I’m sure its an egr issue.

Its not specifically for this issue more “over the course of ownership will it be useful”

If you’ve got a reasonable understanding of how cars and associated systems work and you’re able to work on the car then it can be worthwhile.
I’ve got a renault, so use the code reader (Renault CLIP / CAN) regularly. Split the purchase cost with stepson and between us we’ve saved ££££!

Will it diagnose the string holding my engine tray up currently? 😆

I know my way round an engine… Timing belts and brakes etc.

In my old Honda you could short the OBD connector with a paper clip and read codes off the dash. 😀

Though being a Honda there was never any need to.

Get a cheap one off eBay for £15, it’ll come with a list of codes that VW use and a description of the fault. It’ll be enough information for some investigation work on the VW Forums to find what needs fixing (if anything)

I have a reader for my TT and it’s been invaluable for finding out nothings wrong with the car except the sensors are on thier way out (very common problem with 2004+ VW/Audi group vehicles)

As above – sometimes a code will lead to a clear simple fault, like when I had a bad camshaft sensor. The code said ‘bad camshaft sensor’ and I replaced it, sorted.

However lots of problems such as water someplace it shouldn’t be can cause ALL SORTS of issues. Don’t ask me how I know this….

I’ve one of the cheap bluetooth ones from Ebay which has been handy to have over the 6 years that I’ve had my Alfa.

It’s only ever detected 2 different codes, but one is a regularly recurring red herring*, so it’s nice to be able to ignore it when it appears.

The other caused the turbo to disable itself on the A1, but 5mins in a lay-by later and I’d identified the cause of the issue, the risks of driving it in that condition and a simple fix once at my destination (thanks to the code reader and the owners forum).

* I’m sure it’s identifying a valid intermittent fault/connection somewhere, but the part it’s identified can’t be the issue as a) I’ve replaced it and b) the car wouldn’t start if that was the fault.

Surely with a alfa the idea is to find the bit that IS working?!

Just to expand on the VW/Audi sensor issues ( well worth checking these first )
Camshaft sensor failure, air breather intake sensor failure, air regulator failure (it’s a sensor) exhaust/cat sensor failure, mixture sensor failure…
All replaced, cost about £15-£20 each, some are a pain to get to, some easy.
If it’s exhaust/mixture fault check the cat sensor, because these things get hot/cold/wet etc they are well renowned to fail.. 20min max to change. Also the air intake sensor has a teeny rubber pipe that hangs over the rear exhaust manifold.. check that because these split over time and the mixture/air sensors go bonkers, again a 20min fix with a bit of new pipe.

Haven’t yet had the dreaded ESP light sensors go, these are located in the wheel hubs and there is no location on the fault to tell you which wheel 🙄
Yet another common VW sensor fault…

Purchase a VCDS used to be called Vag-Com there are various versions available, some genuine some not so genuine. A good tool though and laptop based.

No laptop unfortunately.

I’m going to go the bluetooth sensor and torque route.

Then reach for a hammer.

Got a wee warning light.

They think of everything these days.

At the risk of being vaguely helpful, my petrolhead mate recommends Autel readers.

This looks good for the money: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autel-Autolink-AL319-EOBD-Reader/dp/B007XE8C74

Surely with a alfa the idea is to find the bit that IS working?!

[img]http://www.reactiongifs.com/r/daduntsh.gif[/img]
😉

*Bows*

air breather intake sensor

What’s that?

Mass air flow sensor on a VW is about 70 quid exchange.

^ that

Just to expand on the VAG group sensor humour failure issue. I had the traction control light come on on my 1.8T. It happened every few months, and went away when I switched the engine off and on again. I thought it would be the ABS sensors but avoided doing anything because it would be a pain to find out which wheel etc.

Meanwhile the car started misfiring when started up cold. That would last for a minute or three then be ok-ish. I had my local garage do a smoke test for air leaks, and they ran the VAG-Com etc. but could find nothing. I googled everything I could and eventually bit the bullet and bought a new MAF sensor (I tried cleaning it first) to no avail. Eventually I cleaned the throttle body (which didn’t seem to be dirty) and lo and behold it solved the problem of the misfire, but it also solved the traction control light problem. Totally bizarre, though I’m sure there is a rational explanation in there somewhere. The vag-com wasn’t any use in this case.