Viewing 9 posts - 41 through 49 (of 49 total)
  • DIY Question – Skirting Boards?
  • TheFopster
    Free Member

    Your preferred brand of sticky gunk with some nails to hold it while it dries and manage small wobbles in wall. Simples.

    ditch_jockey
    Free Member

    Sliding mitre saw is the best tool for doing skirtings – I did the ones in our hall with a mitre box, and it took forever, whereas I bought a power mitre saw for the lounge/dining room and did it in about half a day. I’m still a bit crap at cutting outside mitres, but the inside mitres and joins are all pretty near perfect – one of my mates who is an architect wanted to know who’d I’d got to do them!

    Saw in question was one of these:
    Evolution Rage 3d

    I’ve seen some reviews complaining they’re not very accurate, but I got good advice from a friend about taking the time to set the saw up with a set square so that the blade was exactly 90 degrees to the wood, and that the laser guide was also set properly. Took me about 20-30 mins of fiddling with all the various adjusters, after which it seemed pretty much spot on and hasn’t moved about in use.

    Rubber_Buccaneer
    Full Member

    the inside mitres and joins are all pretty near perfect

    I was always told not to mitre skirting in a corner but to cut one piece to fit the other with a fret saw. Could be the old fashioned way?

    As nailing into brick has come up may I just mention my most hated job, fixing conduit to old brick. Capping nails are, are, I can’t even find the words 👿

    supersessions9-2
    Free Member

    so gripfast and a few nails to hold it is the stuff then?

    deadlydarcy
    Free Member

    gripfast

    Can you take a picture of the guy in the builders merchant when you ask for some please 🙂

    ernie_lynch
    Free Member

    5lab – Member

    i’ve got one of those angle finder tools

    sadly, I don’t have the ability to cut skirting at that exact an angle, so I normally do it to the nearest 45 degs and just calk the gap

    That tool is designed to set the angle on your compound mitre (chop) saw 5lab. Once set, the saw should do the cutting for you. Although TBH I don’t find the angle finder to be much practical use – despite it being made by a reputable company – Trend.

    I was always told not to mitre skirting in a corner but to cut one piece to fit the other with a fret saw. Could be the old fashioned way?

    No, scribing the skirting at the internal corners is still how it should be done – internal mitres are very naughty. Although using a “fret saw” is probably a little old fashioned 😉

    Can you take a picture of the guy in the builders merchant when you ask for some please

    I like asking for Pinkgrip 🙂

    It’s actually pretty good stuff………….and it’s pink 8)

    5lab
    Full Member

    ernie_lynch – Member

    That tool is designed to set the angle on your compound mitre (chop) saw 5lab. Once set, the saw should do the cutting for you. Although TBH I don’t find the angle finder to be much practical use – despite it being made by a reputable company – Trend.

    I think my problem is my mitre saw was cheap and sh*tty. It has ‘stops’ for 22.5 and 45 degrees, and its really difficult to get it to ‘stay’ in a different angle. its a handsaw, and doesn’t clamp the wood to be mitred upright very well. all in all, a crappy tool.

    ernie_lynch
    Free Member

    its really difficult to get it to ‘stay’ in a different angle

    I’m surprised you can’t lock it in-between 22.5 and 45 degrees, you should be able to – there should be something to tighten up. I agree that hand mitre saws aren’t a lot of good, other than for small mouldings and beads. Try clamping it down onto a solid surface, that’s more important that clamping the wood imo. And don’t force the saw – just let it follow its own line slowly through the wood, the weight of the saw itself should be sufficient to do that.

    dave_aber
    Free Member

    I had some skirting fitted by a joiner last month, and he did the internal joint that way.

    Butt the first piece right into the corner.

    Cut the next piece to fit the next run plus the thickness of the previous board.

    Cut off the bottom (straight) piece of the end of the second run, leaving the moulding part intact.

    Cut through the moulding part at 45° – to give a matching edge.

    Cut away the bit left with a fret saw – not so old fashioned it seems!

Viewing 9 posts - 41 through 49 (of 49 total)

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