I am going to some cross racing over the winter months with a mate who is racing and I am trying to get some good photos.

My camera is a Nikon D50 and I am using a Nikon 18-70mm lens F4.5. I have a Nikon SB600 Flash too. I seem to be able to pre-focus and get side on panning shots but am really struggling to get anything head on that has good clarity. My camera has a max. flash sync of 1/500.

What I am hoping to get is something like this:

At the moment I seem to be getting in a muddle with ISO, shutter speed, aperture and flash settings.

Any tips or suggestions about how to do this?

set camera to shutter priority, set shutter speed to 1/60. Set ISO to 200. leave the flash off.

choose your spot where you're going to take the pic. if you can, get your model to stand on the spot. frame your picture and focus on a specific point – the eyes are the normal point. make sure you remember where the model's eyes appear in your viewfinder

send your model away, and get them to GET READY to ride back. point your camera at them. even if you can't see them, point it. Get themodel to set off, and TRACK THE MODEL with the camera. As soon as they in view, get the focus point lined up with the point in your viewfinder. As they pass the chosen location, take the picture, BUT CONTINUE PANNING

or alternatively, put it in "green square" mode and use the machine-gun multiframe and hope for the best

Using flash head on to a cyclist in a race cant be a great idea

in around 100,000 digital exposures I've used ISO 200 for about 10 of them 🙂 400 is my usual minimum…

If you under tree cover – even in daylight a F2.8 goes a long way to helping.

Sigma do an awesome 24-70 2.8.

I havent used anything else on my 30d for 18months+

Pracice in full manual mode, it forces you to learn the cold hard choice of DOF or shutter speed.

tried changing the auto focus mode, if that's what you're using? not sure about your body, but most have several modes, one of which will track whatever is in frame until you shoot

in addition, close the lens up a bit – dof is great, but if the pictures aren't coming out in focus then its pointless. A bit less DOF will help you when you get started – try putting up to f9 or similar

i would try with no flash, iso 400, f9, and a minimum of 1/100 shutter, hopefully close to 1/200. if you want to use a flash, may as well whack the shutter up a bit. It'd also be easier to get a shot like that with a longer lens – say a 200mm – as the relative distance to subject remains the same for longer (so focussing is easier). I'd say that shot is on at least 150mm, if not longer

in addition, close the lens up a bit – dof is great, but if the pictures aren't coming out in focus then its pointless. A bit less DOF will help you when you get started – try putting up to f9 or similar

due you mean "lack of depth of field" ie subject isolation ? So a bit more depth of field will help focussing ?

as the relative distance to subject remains the same for longer (so focussing is easier)

I would question that – the rate of change of relative distance will be in direct proportion to the reduction in depth of field

ISO, shutter speed, aperture and flash settings.

it's as well to read up about these things even if you subsequently forget about them. ISO is relative sensitivity, as you increase it you can get the shot with less light but the quality drops and noise increases. Shutter speed is how long the sensor is exposed to the light, usually in fractions of a second, so as the number increases, the shutter is faster, reducing the effect of subject and camera – movement, which is usually good, but also reducing the amount of light available, which isn't. Aperture is the size of the iris inside the lens, measured as a ratio to the focal length of the lens, and is a measure of the amount of light transmissivity of the lens – the physics means that any lens at the same relative aperture (say f/4) will transmit the same amount of light from the same scene (barring minor absorbtion in the glass elements). Aperture is highly significant, as it also controls the depth of field ie the distance on the lens axis over which objects are in focus. Reducing the size of the aperture (increasing the number because it's a reciprocal) narrows the cone of projected light and increases the range of focus – but reduces the amount of light available, down to a certain point where diffraction effects spoil the focus (f/16..f/20 with DX sensors). Whether you want depth of field (focus range) depends on whether you want everything in focus of to pick out a specfic part of the subject.

horlicks@hoxton – Member

Using flash head on to a cyclist in a race cant be a great idea

Assuming the race is during daylight hours, I don't see a problem with using a flash.

in around 100,000 digital exposures I've used ISO 200 for about 10 of them 400 is my usual minimum…

I only said 200 as I think that's the base for Nikon, I would start at ISO 100 on my canon – it's useable up to 400, dodgy at 800, wouldn;t bother above that. Mine's old though, and Nikon ISO is better that canon I think

Assuming the race is during daylight hours, I don't see a problem with using a flash.

If it's during daylight hours you shouldn't need flash anyway. Flash can help to freeze the action, but good panning technique should counteract the need for that.

Bear in mind, you need to pan a little even on "head on" shots

If it's during daylight hours you shouldn't need flash anyway.

I dunno, I've been to CX races where the camera simply wouldn't get a picture without flash!

I would consider your shooting location first. In trees = less light & slower shutter speeds and/or wider aperture and/or high iso. A more open location might be less dramatic, but should give you better results as there will be more light which will help the AF, you will be using a higher shutter speed which means you can use a smaller aperture (higher f number) and a lower iso.

My D80 will shoot at ISO100 but I would start at 400 – it is better to get a slightly 'noisy' picture than a blurry or out of focus image.
I would also set the camera to aperture priority & shoot at something like f6 or f8. If this isn't giving you quick enough shutter speeds, then try going to a wider aperture (smaller f number) or increase the iso.

You should have single AF and continous AF modes – choose one focus point, rather than letting the camera choose for you and set the focus to continuous. This should track the rider as he moves towards you. Depending on how good the cont AF is, it might not be able to keep up with the rider, depending on how fast he is going. If this is the case, you'll need to pre-focus as you have been and try using a smaller aperture to give you a deeper 'in-focus' window and shoot in continuous mode to maximise the chance of you getting an in-focus shot (can't do this if using the flash).

With respect to the flash, I wouldn't have any qualms about using it during a daylight race – most event photographers will shoot with a flash.

Best thing to do is practice on other riders before your mate comes around. Look at the results & see where the problems lie. Make some changes & try again – you'll quickly get the hang of it.

If it's during daylight hours you shouldn't need flash anyway.

I disagree – especially if it is under a tree canopy. I just did a photoshoot and used the flash all day to capture people abseiling, via feratta-ing, gorge walking etc.

Or watch a wedding photographer – they will use flash all day in almost all conditions – it is generally needed to get fill flash even if not used on full power.

Assuming the race is during daylight hours, I don't see a problem with using a flash.

Yup – most of the pro photographers at the top of the Fort William downhill were using flash. Its the only way they can get the face visible behind the goggles.

If it's during daylight hours you shouldn't need flash anyway.

I dunno, I've been to CX races where the camera simply wouldn't get a picture without flash!

You can take a non-flash photo in virtually any light conditions. I do live music photography and i haven't used a flash in four years of doing it even in the darkest of venues – outside in daylight even under tree cover shouldn't warrant use of a flash.

outside in daylight even under tree cover shouldn't warrant use of a flash.

Shooting under cloud cover often needs fill flash.

I do live music photography

Is not under cloud cover, there is lots of light, albeit spot, around.

Also, with music photography the effect you want is of dark stages, lit in cool spots, with rich colours coming through.

It is all about desired effect.

You are looking to take a bike coming towards you.

This requires a fast shutter speed, try out using 250th.
Set you camera up in manual mode, both in exposure and focusing.
Your base setting for the ISO should be about 250 unless it’s dark, in which case increase this number.
Pre focus the lens.
Select the max aperture, in this lens’s case that’s f4.5 at the zoomed end, which is 70mm.
I don’t think there’s a commander mode on (an non-existent?) on-board flash unit, so that being the case, make sure there’s nothing between you and the subject matter that will be “blown out” by the SB 600 flash.
Consider turning the flash unit’s head 90 degrees + the diffuser.

Now, clearly if shooting at 250th and at the 70mm setting with the lens set at f4.5 at say 400 ISO you are getting dark images then you need to increase the ISO settings. Play around with the flash but don’t get hung up on it.
Panning shots employ slower shutter settings.
A lens is not at its best wide-open, so if you can stop it down to f5 or f5.6 try this but it will always be a trade off against the different ISO settings – the higher the ISO all the way to 1600, the more “grain” you’ll get.

Again, play with the sutter speeds, and practise on other riders before your pal appears on the trail!

You can take a non-flash photo in virtually any light conditions. I do live music photography and i haven't used a flash in four years of doing it even in the darkest of venues – outside in daylight even under tree cover shouldn't warrant use of a flash.

Sorry but that is just plain wrong.

First of all, with live music photography there should be plenty of light flitting around & the main subjects (presumably the musicians) will all be well lit with spots.
If you want a 'sharp' image, you need a fast enough shutter speed and if there isn't enough light then you won't get a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the image. End of.
Last week I was photographing wild birds on a course – even in an open field it was so overcast that getting pictures of birds in flight (flying in quite predictable paths) was very difficult. I was shooting at ISO 800 & still not getting a fast enough shutter speed. And there were some people there with some serious kit who were also struggling. Even the guy running the course who is a professional wildlife photographer said it was going to be very difficult.
Also, if the camera meters for 90% of the image, then the chances are that the face/upper chest area will be too dark – a bit of flash can help to lighten this area up & match it to the rest of the exposure.

I took a load of pics at ssuk09 recently with a friends D50 with a 18-70mm, was not planning to take any, but was quite impressed with the camera.

I set it to manual focus, set the exposure manually taking a reading off the grass and doubled checked the reading every so often.

I was getting shutter speeds between 1/80th up to 500th sec on whatever the auto asa/iso setting was set at?

Pre focused on a point on the trail and then pan and waited until the subject hit the pre focused point.

I am sure the camera could have coped on autofocus but as it was the first time I used the camera I did not risk it.

Few of the pics here:

Should have used a bit of fill in flash here, but decided not to piss any riders off 😉

Coming towards you or away is a very hard subject for the camera unless it's in tracking autofocus or you pick out a point in the trail and pre-focus on that as even half a seconds delay at a fairly wide aperture will leave the rider right outside the focal plane.

Or whack the aperture right up, get a really slow shutter speed and press the button some time before the subject arrives. As he passes the frame in the desired position, manually flash.

This way you get everything in focus, lots of cool blur lines and a lovely focal point lit up in the centre. It will be littered with rubbish attempts, but you could get a few really good results.

Of course this will really only work in darker conditions.

Or with a fairly high stop ND filter to maintain aperture. I like that thinking m_f

Or with a fairly high stop ND filter to maintain aperture

not the same thing as the flash will be attenuated too.

Good point sfb.

mastiles_fanylion – Member

Or whack the aperture right up, get a really slow shutter speed and press the button some time before the subject arrives. As he passes the frame in the desired position, manually flash.
Or just get a decent flash. 😉

To the OP, Pick your position carefully. Cyclists riding up a hill will generally be going slow enough to focus on. Cyclists going into a bend on a muddy tarck should be going slow enough tho focus. Cyclists, generally, just before beginning a drop will be going slow enough to focus. A cylist going full pelt on dry, flat tarmac will be difficult focus.

I don't know about the D50, but both my EOS10d and EOS20d are very slow focussing cameras.

Get out there and give it a go.

It's the lens that's slow, not the camera, the camera focus detection is lightning fast (though its accuracy can be questioned), but the lens is the item that physically has to move – this is where 90% of the delay in focus comes in. Or so I'm told by those with more experience than I.

Or just get a decent flash

Agreed, but what I was suggesting was for visual effect rather than technical result.

Yup – most of the pro photographers at the top of the Fort William downhill were using flash. Its the only way they can get the face visible behind the goggles.

Not many goggles at a CX race, but anyway – on-camera of off-camera flash? I've used flash at a race, but it was on camera and I didn;t really like the effect it had on racers when I was taking head-on shots, it could be quite distracting. Off camera flash would allow this problem to be eliminated

Off camera flash would allow this problem to be eliminated

Or just get an adjustable head with a diffuser.

down to a certain point where diffraction effects spoil the focus (f/16..f/20 with DX sensors)

wrong, I just checked on http://www.bythom.com and it's worse than that, about f/11 for DX 🙁

I think we're complication his life!

If you have the panning sussed – as you hint at, and you want shots of bikes head-on, then you need a fast shutter speed & the riders to be not moving too quickly.

Set the ISO manually yourself or you'll not really have a clue what's going on. CX riding = lower light levels at a guess.

As regards flash: I now see you have a pop-up flash with no commander mode and a guide number of 17. There is in all probability a SU mode on the SB600 which, when set, will be initiated by the D50's flash unit if it's in line-of-sight and the flash output from the D50 is good enough.
This would give you a manual flash output from the SB600, in effect, acting as the slave unit but would require as I say, line of sight for it to work as you'd be using the SB's photo-electric cell to receive the flash from the D50's own small flash unit.

I could talk you through it or you could read the SB's manual to get the simplest step-by-step way of doing it.

At the moment I seem to be getting in a muddle with ISO, shutter speed, aperture and flash settings.

Any tips or suggestions about how to do this?

You really need to understand the basics before worrying about off camera flash – you have everything you need to use Nikon's CLS (cordless off camera flash system) but there's not much point if you don't 'get' ISO, shutter speed or apperture.

I can't see / open the pic in your OP – is it anything like this?

Or this?

The 2nd is more of a head on shot I suppose…. Both are using off camera flash.

To darken down the background using flash, just up your shutter speed. I'd echo SFB – ISO of around 400 should be fine. I'd also recommend not pre-focussing if you can see the subject coming from a way off – just set your camera to 'C' – there's a switch on the front of your camera with S, C and M on it – Single Servo, Continuous (keeps focussing whilst you half depress the shutter) and Manual.

Don't want to sound patronising, but get a half decent book on understanding exposure and you'll be flying.

There was a test about 8 months ago (?) in the BJP where the Nikon D3 was tested quite extensively including a similar criteria which was also applied; ie the subject coming towrds the camera, shot in C tracking auto-focus mode.
Critical sharpness? It scored a big fat Zero on every image in every situation. And that was with the new sports lenses with fast apertures.
Pre-focus evey time as you know where the rider is going to be.

I'm surprised – I spent a couple of winters shooting the BUSC and BUDS races (uni ski teams), usually in Xscape venues, or in the dark at Hillend.

In year one, I was using a D200 with an 80-200, one-touch, non VR lens. My hit rate was pretty good – shooting skiers at full slalom speed coming straight towards me. Year two, and I'd upgraded to a D300 and the 70-200 VR lens – no discernable difference, apart from much better white balance under tungsten lighting….

I've always used continuous tracking – don't know what it's like in the OP's camera, but would have thought the predictive tracking in the D300 would have trickled down by now….. I've always found it to be spot on – even when the subject disappears into the bottom of a dip before a jump.