I’ve done my first proper ride on the CX bike today (27km with a Cat 5 climb – supposedly). Apart from needing bigger legs to make up for the loss of my 22/34 gear, it went pretty well (no owner mountain bikers pass roadies on the steep stuff!).

However, I am getting wrist pains when on the hoods (mostly right wrist). Any ideas how I should tune the fit a bit better to sort this rather? From what I’ve read the bars are in the correct position (stem length and height). Is it a case of getting used to it, or can I make some adjustments that may help? I’ll be changing the tatty bar tape soon so can make any adjustments before I fit the new tape.

Also, I have the saddle quite far forward on the rails, with a layback post, would you fit a straight post? Always had straight in the past (on mtb).

What’s your core strength like? Wrist pain can often be caused by using your arms to hold you up rather than your core.

Saddle fore/aft position should be driven by your leg/feet position necessary on the pedals, not used to alter the reach to the bars. Bar reach should be altered by stem length and rise.

A pic would help.

Saddle position is set to suit pedal stroke, pretty much how my XC bike is set. Core feels fine, and if I let go of the bars (when on the hoods) I don’t fall forward and can maintain my back position without effort. A few pics. Ignore the pedals, their borrowed for now, until I order some more appropriate!

I’d try an in-line seatpost (if you have one). Bringing your arse further forward will let it take more of the weight. It’s an easy thing to try too.

Your saddle points downwards. This outs more weight onto your hands and stresses other areas such as your knees. Put it so that it is horizontal, or very very slightly up or down. This will help you in getting your position better and more comfortable.

Yeah, the saddle was level, but I was getting some pain in the lower regions so dropped it roadside for the last few miles. Didn’t realise it was that low until I saw the pic, so yes, it does need lifting a bit! All my saddles are just slightly nose down though it suits me. The wrist pain was happening before this.

Happy with the saddle position (once I’ve angled it back up a few clicks) as this works in terms of pedal/knee alignment. Copied from my XC bike which has worked well.

Do you think the hoods look in the right position, is there a rule for setting these on the bars? Or the bars themselves (angle of the drops for example). They feel comfortable enough on the tops, and on the bottom of the drops, but I wonder if the levers should be moved down a touch?

The hoods and bars look a little high / tilted upright. you might want to level the drops of the bars out so they are in line with your top tube and more horizontal to the ground. You can then shift your levers up the bars some more if you want a more pronounced hood position.

Overall the position looks to be ok. I’d swop to straight seat post if you’re able.

Ideas:
Try some different bar tape, i use the salsa stuff, that’s about 2.5mm of squishy cork material. Really comfy and takes the high end sting out of your bars.

Also, on a simple level, try a lower tyre press in your front wheel and check that your hoods are equal left to right as you look down from above. you may need to tweak that angle to ease the strain you’re putting on your wrists.

Are the bars the right width for your shoulders and stance? Consider where in your wrist the discomfort comes from. wider / narrower bars might effect this?

Finally, which brake are you pulling with the right wrist?
My guess, not super clear from the photos, is that it’s your front brake. Sack off the canti, and add a short leverage (short arm length) v-brake. This is the most likely culprit. You’ll get loads more power and require far less effort to engage the brake.

Non of these tweaks is expensive. Have a good think and repeated goes at getting your hand grip and brake action feeling balanced and natural as possible to you. Some drop levers have reach adjustment if your hands or position are causing you to stretch out too far. More costly to change, however thinking along these lines and making little adjustments with repeat rides will lead to to the sweet spot.

Thanks Binno, some good tips and a methodical way of going through things. Yes, it’s the front brake I’m pulling with the right hand. Cycling home tonight I did think about how my wrist is, and wonder if the bars/hoods are angled a little high. I shall let you know how I get on. I am replacing the bar tape so will look for the cork tape that you suggest. I was thinking blue 8)

I’ll work through the above and let you know how I get on. At least it’s not a million miles away and before I bought the bike I had a test ride and thought it felt good, so these are just little tweaks that need to be made to help with longer rides.

Cheers.

Different gloves made a huge difference to me. Unpadded ones were way better than some padded ones where the padding was just in the wrong place.

hard to tell with out a more side on photo but it looks to me as if the bars could come back to wards you a bit (rotated in the stem) and the hoods need to go down the bars a bit.

Everyone is different and you do see some wildly ‘wrong’ set ups that people are very comfortable and happy with.

EDIT:

Different gloves made a huge difference to me

+1 i have different gloves for mtb/ drop bars padding is allwrong otherwise.

Thanks guys. Got a bit of tinker time tonight so I’ve rotated the bars a few degrees and levelled my saddle a bit (always run nose down though, just not as much as in the pics!). I’ve also moved the left lever in a touch, as it was angled out a touch. I’ll see how that goes on the way to work over the weekend, and a longer ride on Monday.

Small steps, but at least I have a direction to move in. Also marked everything so I can move it back to the start if needed!

Cheers.

Oh, and gloves, I’m not wearing any at the moment.

I don’t wear gloves either.

Keep going with the simple set up options and do give the front v-brake idea some thought, they really do work better and requires far less effort to lock out when needed.

Good luck, keep at it, you will find that elusive sweet spot.

Re-taped the bars yesterday, after spending ages messing and testing with things. Bars are back to where they were, but lowered the hoods a bit which means my wrists sit at a better angle. Double wrapped them on the tops and in the drop, to give more cushioning. Also re-jigged the saddle position. Basically started from scratch!

I’ll see how that goes, but think a slightly shorter stem or adjustment to stem height is all that may be needed now. Will get a pic later and see how the next few rides feel!

Cheers.