Looking to buy a 3 x led budget kit from cutter but the postage is a bit prohibitive on such a small order.

Anybody else wanting stuff from them and fancy splitting the postage?

cheers

Dave

e mail in profile

Quite possibly – do you have link to the kit you're getting? haven't checked em out for a while!

it's this one

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut790

I reckon i'd be in for that, I melted a power connector on my lumis last month 😳
how hard is it to fit into a lumi can?

The lumi halogen conversion is what i'm thinking of.

I have an idea about a heatsink/transfer that will allow the square driver to slot straight in. You may have to lose the switch though and just connect to the battery via a flying lead out of the back of the lumi halogen can. Still working the design at the moment.

Give me a couple of days to finalise the design and i'll post a piccy on here (if I can). I reckon I can get the heatsinks made for £5ish each.

Vortex – i'm after a triple mr11 LED board thingy as I knocked the LED off one of mine, but can't for the life of me find them on the site (individually – I already have the driver and optics) – can you see them on there??!!

DrP

Give me a shout, i need to order a new driver.

Simon

I've got a guide that is in the form of a Word or pdf document that looks like it was cut & pasted from here a while back (way before the hacking incident).

If anyone wants it, e-mail me & I can send it over. Probably won't be until the weekend though as my computer is playing 'how slow can we boot' at the moment & it winds me up.

I keep meaning to order one of these kits to try – I think it was the B-Flex one, but it seems more expensive than I remember.

might be interested, how much is a kit for a Lumi can, and what else do you need?

Rich.
p.s. Stumpy ive mailed you!

you need the kit from above and a heatsink, plus a bit of wire.

I have already managed to convert quite a few lumi HID housings using the cutter R2 triple and Bflex driver, I have a spare halogen can and I was looking to make a light for commuting, the fact that you can get a glowring for the halogen can means this seems to be a good, decent price conversion that wil have a good spread of light sideways as well as forward.

Like I said stato, i'm going to try and sort some heatsinks/heat transfer machinings.

DrP

i think it's this page, you have to select the ones you require on the pull down

http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Cree+XPE

that site is far too complicated for me. I want a page that says "so you have a lumicycle can to convert? Here's what you need and what to do with it. Click to buy" kind of thing

they don't do that i'm afraid, but if it all works out well i'll do a 'how to convert a lumi can to an LED' guide.

it's free with the heatsink!

Vortex, you have at least 1 customer then ;0). Im happy to lose the switch in the lumi-can as i leave the lights on all the time for commuting, i have a remote switch if i decide i need it anyway.

As a side question, are these Cutter conversion dimable? i know you cant dim LED's easily but is there any way can you maybe turn 1 or 2 of the 3 LED's off for a lower power option? Maybe with a rotary switch or somthing? Im gonna get my elctronics-whiz-mate to sort all this out for me (not that he knows this yet) so he might be able to sort somthing out if i can let him know what the board/driver/whatever can do.

Ta,
Rich

it can be done with a bflex driver, that's what i have in my 3 x led light which uses a HID Lumi housing.

The problem is they are a LOT more than the cheap drivers that come with this kit. (about £22ish more)

hopefully Trout may pop along shortly with news of a driver that is cheap and dimmable.

I only know of the taskled drivers that cutter use.

Ok cheers, just asking as the glowring gets pretty bright when run with a 5W and REALLY bright when run with a 12W so i might have to commute in sunglasses if this thing pumps out 500Lumens!

+1 Vortex- I have an old 12x-20w combo of lumis, and fancy upgrading them..

If you tell me what I need to convert them, then I'll gladly order them, oh, and if you can do all the bodging, then name your price, as I'm inept when it comes to this sort of thing..

looking at the drivers he is supplying you can choose if you want 350ma or 700ma. The 500lumens is associated with the 700ma setting.

So you can choose 350ma if you want. the only problem is that it is fixed beacause you have to cut one of the tracks to set the board to the milliamps you require. Ie once set they can't be changed.

I'm not very well up on the maths but I have read on various thread thats reducing the current does not necessarily mean a big reduction in light levels, ie 350ma does not necessarily mean 250lumens.

Again I would like someone to advise on this.

TBH a 250lumens light for commuting with a glow ring and a narrow/medium lens would be more than adequate IMHO.

Vortex, if you turn your lumi hid light with the bflex in down to the low level (350ma) this would give you an indication of what light output you would be getting, obviously one level below max would be 700ma! Think the Q4s put out a little less light than the R2's you have in the Lumi hid housing though!

good shout kinda666, i'll try that tonight.

After speaking to the guy at taskled, the different levels you can toggle through are not, 750, 500, 250 etc. they are adjusted differently due to the eye and the light being a log scale (or something along those lines).

but i can select 350ma as the max and then when on high it will be representative.

@STATO
re: lumi glowring – It has always been too bright IMO, even pre LED upgrade.
I use a bit of flexible plastic about 4cm wide (actually a bit of one of these that wore out 🙂 & an inner tube derived elastic band to cut light thats going upwards to your eyes

e-t-p; when i was using it last (in Jan/Feb) i had a bit of cardboard held over the top of the light with a postie elastic band in a similar fashion to yours, great way to recycle stuff you find lying on the floor :0)

I mount my lumi lights under the bars: between the bracket and can I have a plastic shim / spacer that came with my crud catcher to stop the glowring light washing out my vision

Im running a drop bar commuter this winter so running the lights on the bars will result in most of the side light spill being blocked by my hands on the hoods/drops. Ive just bought a front rack for it so the light will be going down on that when its fitted, hopefully this location, the extra brightness and longer run times from the conversion should make it a pretty sweet set-up.