Further to the recent thread about 2008 Enduros, I’m thinking about putting a Fox coil on my 2009 model. Which is the standard issue model most people would use – will a Vanilla do, or do most people use the DHX 4.0 (it’s replacing an RP23). Do people have a preferred supplier for prices etc., do you get the shock valved specially – generally what’s the best way to go about this? beyond making sure the eye-to-eye length matches.

Thanks

Have a look at loco he might be able to do a dueler in that size, its not listed but its worth a call. £275 with a Ti spring!

2nd hand is obviously cheapest option but I got my VanRC from TF tuned. Rang them, discussed my riding style, weight etc and shock came ready to fit. Tis awesome. Have a look on MTBR for the Enduro SL thread. People on there with Marzocchi Roco’s, Manitou Swingers and DHX coils. Van Rc was the cheapest option. Yes it’s a heavy piece of kit but I was surprised how little bob there is under pedalling.

Vanilla R on my trek. discussed with tftuned about spring for riding style etc. transformed it to be honest – just standard, not pushed or anything. pedals well uphill and great in the Promised land that you now know so well!!

Dueler would be good ( 😀 ) The new Fox Van RC is a better bet than the DHX coil as well.

I have a 5th element on mine, and once the internals had been upgraded by TFTuned it has been running a treat. Plush, with as much or little ProPedal you want to dial in. I’m 18stone and i dont hang around over the rocks, and so far (5 years) it’s fit and forget.

I’ve got a dueller for sale,very little use,do you know what size it is?
Cheers John.

200 x 57 – does a Dueler shock come in this size yet?

Have a VanR on an 06 enduro. Tuned by TF to pedal but still has too much bob for standing up sprinting like you might do on enduro races. For everything else it is amazing. They were worried about tuning out all the benefits so probably played it safe.

Plow you should try a Monarch plus. Works well for peddling and DH.

So a coil shock is too bobby to pedal well, unless you make adjustments which effectively eliminate the benefits of having one.

Sounds like a potential dealbreaker – I cherish my ability to get up big climbs sometimes!

I Ache – I asked you about yours on another thread. The ~155mm is a nice compromise as well. I can not justify the cost when my DHX Air does the pedalling/race business well and the coil does the fun…or I could sell the pair. I don’t trust the DHXair, it has started cavitating again after a rebuild at the start of the year from Loco. I think is is an unreliable shock long term and the rebound damping on the VanR seems 200% more consistant/able.

I think it is a sweeping statement to say you can not set up a coil as you require. I could probably get a little more slow speed compression damping which would do the trick.

Jhw, don’t compare the 06 enduro with the 08. My 08 with VanRC feels amazing downhill and I haven’t noticed any increased bob on climbs (seated :oops:) over the AFR. The only negative is perhaps a pound or two weight increase over the AFR.

My bike still climbs well seated with the coil – probably has more traction. It is out the saddle sprinting that is the only down fall.

ok – thanks. Helpful.

Anyone know if the evo kit is available for the 2010/11 enduros yet? or a custom shock to fit?

TFTuned put a CCDB coil on someones 2010 enduro so you could give them a buzz.

Dueler plan to release 200mm & 190mm coil shock with ti spring on March, 2012.
Find out in their website
DSP-Racing

Is this right or am I going mental?

I’ve got a 09 Enduro with a black ‘S’ logo’d spesh shock. It feels ‘odd’- doesn’t seem to be consistent and I think the best word is it feels ‘confused’ on rocky descents.

It works ok- wind in loads of rebound etc- not sticking down, no top out and no thick oil etc on shaft.

I thought the black-bodied spesh shock was supposed to be sorted?

Would I see a good diff by outlaying money on a decent Fox coil? No I don’t need fancy features etc etc.

I used to have a 2007 Endro SL, I owned it for about 2 years.

You are making a wise decision upgrading the shock, if you are running the stock AFR then it is a pile of turd I’m afraid, anything will be an upgrade.

The Enduro SL is very active, it’s difficult to get rid of pedal bob. I had a DHX5 with a titanium spring, it was extremely plush on rough stuff, but it was difficult to remove bob even when running 25% sag with the pro pedal almost maxed. I would look at something with better platform damping like an RP23 or Monarch Plus, the Monarch felt like an awesome shock when I ran it on my current bike (Covert).

edit: didn’t realise this thread was 6 months old.. duh!

Hora – have you tried doing an aircan service (a very simple job) and trapping some negative air in the shock (you’ll find lots of info about this on mtbr.com)? This was apparently what the factory was supposed to do but very often didn’t. It’s made a big difference to the feel of my AFR shock and others have reported the same. It now seems pretty good and not disimilar to my Yeti ASR5 with an RP23, although there’s a bit more compression damping even on the lowest setting. I’d still like to try a Dueller or Monarch Plus but that’s just upgraditis 🙂

This http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/afr-shock-air-sleeve-service-384697.html

and

This? http://www.mtnbikers.net/forums/docs/SpecAFRShockAirSleeveService.pdf

Hora, I’ve got a lovely TF tuned van Rc off my old Enduro SL. With a spring for just your weight. Interested? 😉

Yup, that’s it. Remove the shock, unscrew the air can (was easy to do by hand on mine), clean the main seal, apply a thin film of suspension grease e.g. slick honey, screw can back on (you need to push it firmly whilst twisting), bolt the shock back on, set your sag (probably will now require a lower pressure), job done!

Let us know if you find it makes a difference or not.

Bregante – if Hora doesn’t want it, how much are you looking for?

Does it have the bushes still?

Possibly interested but I’d need to reduce hora Juniors food intake and mug a couple of kids for their dinner money.. 😉

How much??

Yeah yeah, spare me the violins 🙂 Dunno. I’ll do some digging and email you….

Bregante – could you email me too please (email in profile).

amphibian bog off! 😉

Hora – you’ve got first dibs of course 😉

Amphibian, you haven’t got an email in your profile and, of course Hora has first dibs! 😆

It’s andrew.hampton@ntlworld.com. Ta!

sorry mate it looks like it’s sold unless Hora swaps bikes in the next couple of hours.

So I’d say say you’re still in with a shout. 😉

amphibian – Member

Yup, that’s it. Remove the shock, unscrew the air can (was easy to do by hand on mine), clean the main seal, apply a thin film of suspension grease e.g. slick honey, screw can back on (you need to push it firmly whilst twisting), bolt the shock back on, set your sag (probably will now require a lower pressure), job done!

Let us know if you find it makes a difference or not.

I would be a little bit dubious of following that negative air bleeding advice, the negative spring is supposed to have air in it, for at least balancing the preload inherent in an air spring. And if you look later in that MTBR thread, the speci tech says so himself

The negative air pressure plays a big role in minimizing top out. Bleeding out the negative pressure will allow the shock to top out harshly. The improvement in small bump compliance was due to greasing the air sleeve seal, build the shock without bleeding out the negative air pressure and this will improve small bump compliance even more, as the other job of the negative air spring is small bump compliance.

Exactly – it works much better if the negative air is not bled out.

Bregante – no worries. I might just go for a Dueller when it becomes available in 200 x 57.

Picked up and about to fit. Bloody Man City, why do they always play when I want to use the gym there? If I’ve not swapped out my frame before the weekend I’ll tell you how it rides. 😉

Bregante come to think about it your right. I felt lateral flex from the airshock and I first thought it was loose/worn bushes etc.

I have been running a DHX 5 Coil on my 09 Enduro SL for 2 months now with my trusty Lyrik Coil up front and it’s totally transformed the bike. If you can live with the weight the way the bike feels is totally worth it, it’s massively responsive and tracks everything. This is comming from an Mid compression Mid rebound RP2 not the AFR!!!!

I have tried every trick in the book with the AFR and it will not work as well as any fox or RS product. The negative air bleed makes it better but is sacrifices travel by around 10%, not ideal nut if you don’t have the cash for a different shock then it’s a trade off.

My main reason for changing to coil was Morzine, the RP2 was totally overwhelmed by the long decents and actually started feel like the AFR at the end of long runs (The shock got warm having the effect of increasing the air pressure).

My advice would be bin the AFR and fit a Coil or better Air shock, it’s a worth while investement.

Found this thread and sweet Jesus of Nazareth I saw the following image….now I want a ti spring 😐

http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/coil-shock-enduro-sl-461105.html

Get the 15-20 quid bigger sleeve/bumper insert for your RP23. You can tune the progressive nature of it.
I have done that on my 2011 Enduro and it has made a big difference. Can now run the RP23 in 30% sag without ‘FIRM’ bottoming out on bigger hits/compressions.