Just acquired a Ribble winter bike to commute to work on in the winter through the sh1te ridden back roads. Campag Veloce crankset triple (old 8 speed) with internal BB (almost new), new chain, shifts perfectly and no chain jumping or suck.

The clicking is getting worse. Only evident at higher torques/out the saddle. Drive side only. Newish Pedals, tightened QR’s.

So on my list of things to do are:

Remove crank arms, clean, bit of grease, replace.
Remove BB, clean, grease threads, replace.
Check chainring bolts (but click on every chainring)

Am I missing anything else?

Casette loose, freehub failing?

I had this on my road bike took ages to find. It was my seat. I tool it off gave the rails a clean put a smear of grease on the rails and it went. I’d had pedals apart and cranks bb out .

I thought this was going to be another should i shouldn’t i torque wrench question, most dissapointed…

Is it coming from the drivetrain for sure ?

Haven’t tried tightening up the cassette and I’ll check the freehub body for play but seems to be running sweet as a nut. Its strange its only on the drive side (cannot make it click no matter how hard I push on the non-driveside). I don’t think its the saddle as replaced it when I got the bike and it clicks out the saddle?

@Tragic – not necc. Click in drive side stroke about 4’oclock?

Most bizarre one I found was a very dry seatpost creaking in the frame when out of the saddle!

Pedal threads?

How stiff is the frame, could it be the frame flexing enough to knock the indexing out causing the chain to rub against the next sprocket? Check by indexing slightly towards the higher gears and see if it still does it.

Slightly mismatched chain and cassette wear?

tinas – Yup could be as its a new chain on an old crank – cassette is OK I think but “you never know with cassettes” 😉

I will check the seat post and clean it up. It is a ribble 7005/winter bike frame so is pretty stiff. 🙂 I think I might be spending a bit of time over the weekend now 😉

my 456 did it with a new chainring and old chain

£20 on bb, crank bolt or pedal threads.

TINAS you are making your first post up yes?

Well I can’t remove my crank easily now as I have stripped the threads on the crank using the extractor 🙁 However my rear mech was squealing like mad this morning as I needed to replace my lower jockey wheel (bushing totally worn by previous owner ans grease didn’t help much 😉 ) so we shall see if that makes any difference. I haven’t had a chance to check the cassette but tightened everything else up and still clicks – I still reckon its the BB/taped axle/crank interface but still looking 🙂

My Ribble clicked because it had a crack in the BB shell/down tube interface area. HTH 😕

As above could be seat post, worth removing, cleaning and greasing, i have been convinced of drivetrain clicks when its been skewers, bars, saddle rails etc. to coin a crap overused management phrase, time to think out of the box !

Also check rear mech hanger if it has a replaceable one

tightening the cranks does not require thei removal.

There is quite a bit of flex in the frame I have noticed so could be anywhere.

Cynical – of course but I wanted to remove them, clean up the interface, little bit of grease and re-tighten 🙂

Checked the mech hanger and tightened the bolt yesterday – Will check the seatpost & Saddle at the weekend as well as the cassette but I think I may have to live with it 🙁

Woody – checked it over for cracks but I doubt it as it hardly been ridden but you never know 😉

are you sure its not your knees?

LOL – well they click on any of my bikes 😉

Isnt this the Ribble with the paintwork cracks?

No bigyinn its yet another one 😉 I got a second hand winter bike (£190) with old but functional Capag Veloce 8 speed groupset. Just needs a little TLC and jockey wheels replaced 🙂

The Sportive is doing fine (crack has not moved in the last 4 months but Ribble said they are happy to replace it) That’s going back to Ribble this weekend to be exchanged as I have a backup road bike now 🙂