Looking at those tyres goes back to the point on the other page, build the bike you want to ride not a weight

Indeed, I bought them to replace worn out chunkier OEM tyres to see whether they suit my riding or not. Seems an ok price to try something a bit more extreme. If they don’t work out for whatever reason then I’ll change them for something more suitable. I’m pretty new to the world of mtb so still finding my feet.

Drop the pressure in your tyres. You might have as much as 30 or 40 lbs per square inch in there.

Not grammes, but lbs saved. Loads of them. for FREE.

Aware it’s not the cheapest of options but here goes… other half had pretty much the same spec Cotic as you in the first place (same forks, generic wheels, 3×9). He went 1×10, certainly looked nicer but didn’t really feel like he’d saved much weight. Biggest difference was when he pinched my wheelset (crest front, arch rear with an tubeless ready ardent) and the bike whilst not changing the weight vastly the wheels felt much more speedy. But yeah I was worried that he was going to blow up my crest rim…

Get off it?

It’s all relative. You need to get heavier.

OK thanks for the replies guys, i think ill just stick with it…

Oh and i’m currently about 62KGs

Perhaps my remark about eating less was misplaced OP 😳

The comment above re-wheels / tyres is notable, it’s not just about the weight but where on the bike it is.

I run a rigid 26″ singlespeed that weighs 18lb (just over 8KG)

Nothing expensive on it either (complete build £800) and the most noticeable weight difference was the wheels I just built up which only cost £180 in parts to get a 1440 gram wheelset. (Stans Alpine rims at only £25)
Change of wheels saved me around 500 grams

Everything else is cheap carbon or cheap and light alu by selecting components carefully and/or when reduced

I just enjoy a very light bike for XC type riding and so what if it only makes me 2 seconds faster it just feels better to ride.

I had lots of good ideas to add to this thread but the mixture of metric and imperial measurements people have been using has made me sad and erased parts of my brain.

Eat NO pies !!

Some one mentioned a 5g top cap, once the bearings are preloaded and the stem tightened you could loose it all together, you could do this via a head doctor and remove that too once done meaning no star not or anything. I HEAR a drill and hack saw can be handy on steel frames (joke) but I’m sure there were people drilling small holes in brake leavers cranks and random parts to loos a few grams.