Have always joined a new chain by running it around biggest chain ring and biggest rear cog and adding two links.

However, going 1×10 and a mid cage rear mech and chain device (MRP SL mini) leaves the rear mech looking almost horizontal when in lowest gear.

Does anybody add an extra link or two in these situations, or leave as is?

I’d run it longer, but I’ve been shouted down on here by folks who are convinced that as tight as physically possible is the only correct way.. What would I know?

The gear change is better if it’s not over tensioned, but will bounce and clatter a little more.

The big/big +2 rule of thumb is good for triples, as you rarely if ever use big/big on a triple, and it gives you a good compromise between being too tight at one end of the spectrum, and too loose at the other.

But on a double or single you’ll use big/big a lot more, and I agree the big/big +2 rule puts way too much tension on the RD cage when in the largest sprockets! See my thread running here for me making just that mistake!

In fact even SRAM say in the instructions that come with a new chain to use big/big +4 for doubles (and I’d assume the same goes for a single) – but who ever reads the instructions…

Well I wish I’d read this a few days ago before shortening my new KMC X10L chain to big/big +2 on my 1×10 bike… Could that excessive tension have been the reason for chainsuck?

Hmmm tempted to risk adding two extra links in then. Chain does feel on the tight side even though it does shift okay.