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  • Carbon roadie clincher wheels – what rim depth?
  • bennyboy1
    Free Member

    I’m looking at treating myself to a posh carbon roadie clincher wheelset for Spring / Summer 2017. I’ve 99% nailed down what wheels I’m going to go for but the only thing to decide within that is the rim depth on them.

    The majority of my road riding is local to me and consists of a moderate hill ratio I suppose – usually approx 750m-1200m of climbing per 100km (only around 350-400m per 100km if I go East).

    On the basis of this should I simply follow the ethos of aero always trumping weight? I’m probably leaning towards the 38mm as a decent allrounder but would a 55mm be any faster for general up and down riding? These are the options:

    28mm rim height – 1335g
    38mm rim height – 1475g
    55mm rim height – 1575g

    Thoughts and experience welcome. I’m currently running a pair of bog standard alu 2015 Fulcrum LG35 Quattros so new wheels will be a significant upgrade on those.

    ant77
    Free Member

    I’m in a similar position where I’ve decided on some theoretical wheels depending on somehow getting some money from somewhere.

    While reading up on whether I wanted light weight for climbing or aero, everything I found seemed to point towards aero, unless it was actually for a hillclimb bike.

    So if I ever do get a nice set of wheels it’ll probably be the 58mm deep firecrests.

    spot
    Free Member

    do you have other wheelsets as well?
    would not go for 55 mm unless you have other wheels to use when it’s windy

    flange
    Free Member

    Deep rims look cooler. 55mm all day long

    40mpg
    Full Member

    I demo’d some 50mm magic cosmic carbon clinchers recently over my aksiums. I generally ride 30 – 60 miles plus an occasional 100 over twisty lanes with shortish climbs – south downs type stuff.

    For the best part of 2 grand wallet lightening, they felt a little bit stiffer and helped climbing although I can’t say I noticed any weight difference either picking up the bike or accelerating. They were quite comfy and seemed to reduce vibration – but that could have equally been the better tyres on them. I did notice getting blown around quite a bit in crosswinds. My usual circuits weren’t noticeably quicker.

    I really can’t justify blowing £2k on a pair of wheels however sexy they look. I think I’ll go for something a bit lighter maybe but the aero really doesn’t make a difference for my fast blasts or mates racing on the roads I use.

    bikebouy
    Free Member

    38’s

    njee20
    Free Member

    I’ve got 38s for all round use, they’re great wheels (Chinese carbon built with Tune hubs @1320g), but part of me wishes I’d gone deeper. They do sound cooler, and look cool. Very tempted to just get another pair. That said, my previous experience of 50s (10 years ago) was That whilst they went faster, they felt slower, and as I don’t race much I want something which feels better. Things have massively improved since mind.

    onandon
    Free Member

    If you read the blurb and aero testing, Aero beats weight in virtually every scenario. Having said that I wouldn’t spend large wedge on heavy wheels so stuck with 42s for day to day riding.
    On another bike I have 50’s and can’t feel much difference in aero or weight ( they’re 150grams more )

    As above. Deeper looks better so go for those 🙂

    Blurb

    chakaping
    Free Member

    I went for 24mm rims when I needed new wheels recently, as my road rides are mainly about going up hills – and I’m not bothered about getting between them quickly. But my riding is probably more like 1,000m climbing for each 40 or 50km.

    Based on the climbing/distance ratio you specify, I’d have considered the 38s.

    PS. I think low profile rims look cooler, but obviously in a minority now.

    legend
    Free Member

    While reading up on whether I wanted light weight for climbing or aero, everything I found seemed to point towards aero, unless it was actually for a hillclimb bike.

    38s* for me as I’m stupid enough to think about racing hill climbs. I also weight naff-all so pretty much get blown away when a breeze picks up

    *want, don’t own 🙁

    cubicboy
    Free Member

    38mm

    xyeti
    Free Member

    I went 58’s and initially regretted it, the side wind and draft off passing lorries / busses made my first week or so of riding very interesting. It is like riding a bike, pardon the pun and I’ve now gotten used to their profile and the way they respond to winds. That and the fact they do look better.

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    Depends. Thing is deeper wheels are more stable the faster you ride. I have a set of 404 that I ride a lot. The only time they feel a bit of a liability is when pootling around on easy z1 rides. Faster rides they are fine (probably about 20mph and above). Much the same with 808’s. Can feel pretty scary rolling to the start line on a windy day but once up to race speed they are fine (but they need to be above about 25mph.) I guess it’s all about the cross wind relative to the headwind you’re generating.

    Decent all rounder, i’d probably go 38mm.

    dantsw13
    Full Member

    I’ve just picked up a pair of the Reynolds 32/46 carbon clinchers in the superstar sale for £270!! I’m going to get them tensioned before I ride them, but at that price……..

    crashtestmonkey
    Free Member

    Ben (*waves*) I’m a tart and have both sub 1300g lightweights (Light Bicycle), and some 45mm semi deep sections (USE 4.5s).

    I’ve read the Cyclist article, and as a geek had previously read the material it’s based on. In essence, over an entire ride aero trumps weight full stop. For an individual climb aero trumps weight until you hit gradients of around 5-6% for us non-pro riders, at which point our speeds are sufficiently low for the aero benefit to drop to the point where weight wins.

    I’d go for the 38 out of your list as 55’s will be a bit of a handful in cross winds.

    plus-one
    Full Member

    Two sets of 38’s here good for everything 🙂

    Haze
    Full Member

    45mm 🙂

    bennyboy1
    Free Member

    Thanks all, my head has been saying the 38mm (the heart strings saying the 55’s!) so I imagine the 38’s are what I’ll end up going for.

    Crashtestmonkey – *waves back* – this posh wheel thread has developed following our local forum discussion and my initial searching for a new set of Winter wheels… my wants vs needs have become blurred and escalated somewhat! 😀

    OmarLittle
    Free Member

    Listen to your heart 🙂

    Last year i got a new bike and got 58mm race wheels and shallow climbing wheels (about 1100 grams). I like the deep sections so much i rarely use the other wheels. Its free speed and make a nice noise, handling wise they are not too bad in the wind, much better than i was expecting before i got them

    TiRed
    Full Member

    I race 55’s and ride 45’s for a lot of my training and winter. To be honest, 33 is all you really need. And it makes inner tube selection a lot easier come puncture time. There are no 80 mm latex inner tubes, so I gave up on my 55’s, which was a shame. I still run them in my other wheels.

    I don’t do valve extenders!

    hatter
    Full Member

    38’s, good for everything.

    ninfan
    Free Member

    I’d suggest the key question is “whats your average speed?”

    There’s a point below which the aero benefits are negligible

    burchill
    Free Member

    I went for 38mm over 50mm as they seemed the best compromise of aero/weight. Conveniently, I also think anything over 45-50mm looks ridiculous.

    MikeWW
    Free Member

    I went for the CERO RC45’s and have been very impressed

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    I’d suggest the key question is “whats your average speed?”

    There’s a point below which the aero benefits are negligible

    This was the question I was getting at. The slower you go the less aero benefit there is… but also the less stable they become (at least on the front.)

    paton
    Free Member

    This guy has some thoughts on carbon clinchers

    [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ET1jRVynOBA[/video]

    High temperatures from braking having an adverse effect on resins in the carbon fibre.

    Tubular rims have some benefits over clincher rims, so he says.

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    Old news.

    Things have improved significantly with better resins and pads.

    Still, if I was a big guy regularly tackling long Alpine like descents, I’d be properly doing my research before getting some carbon rims.

    njee20
    Free Member

    And I wouldn’t use latex tubes.

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    And I wouldn’t use latex tubes.

    Use latex tubes on all my carbon wheels 🙂

    crashtestmonkey
    Free Member

    I think the theory/argument is carbon rims get so hot from braking (as they don’t dissipate the heat) that they melt latex tubes. Dunno if it’s internet urban legend or not.

    And ninfan, Ben is definitely quick enough for it to matter.

    TiRed
    Full Member

    carbon rims get so hot from braking (as they don’t dissipate the heat) that they melt latex tubes

    Not in Surrey they don’t 😉

    Valve stem length is a bigger pain in my experience. Vittoria Corsa G+ ride almost as well with decent butyl tubes though.

    Oh, and my 45’s are original p-SLR aeros with alloy braking surface, the 55’s are all carbon. Braking is much nicer on the older alloy, but one needs to be on trend these days (not really).

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    Light wheels feel nice.

    Deep section may be faster buy unless you are racing, what on earth is the point?

    You’ll save a few seconds on your rides. So what?

    dirtyrider
    Free Member

    go bike or go home, 808’s on my “fast bike” (disclaimer, its pan flat round here, so why not, i wouldn’t use this bike on a hilly ride)

    sq225917
    Free Member

    5 or 6% percent, I wish. Weight trumps aero in my back yard. Sub 38’s all day long.

    davidtaylforth
    Free Member

    55mm all day long. Aerodynamics matter far more than 100g. Hell, just swap your chainset to a SRAM Red/put a carbon seatpost on there/get some lighter skewers etc. Losing 100g is easy. I’m not sure which deep wheels are most aerodynamic though, some (Zipp/FFWD etc) are obviously gonna be better than some cheapo unbranded jobbies off ebay.

    wool
    Full Member

    On custom 60’s here with DT 240 disk hubs, used on that faithful wet and very windy 3 Peaks race. Making the turn on the top of Inglebrough was like hoisting an asymmetric on a RS800 Never turned a pedal across the summit plateau the bike just flew. I have seemed to adjust to being pushed around in cross winds very quickly I just don’t notice anymore. Go big they look really cool on the bike the performance thing is nothing to worry about unless your a contender….I am not.

    ultracrepidarian
    Free Member

    Enve smart system here with dt 240s, so I’d say 38f, 50r.

    mrjmt
    Free Member

    I’ve got 50mm on mine. Feel great on climbs, and done a couple of crits, really nice in fast corners mid bunch where you want something that’ll help you keep your line (not saying this is just down to the rim depth).

    I talked to the wheel builder (stayer cycles) about what riding I did (pretty much everything) and she recommended me a couple of options. Don’t have the money for different wheels for different jobs, if I want to shave a second off a climb I’ll do the appropriate work on the turbo!

    philxx1975
    Free Member

    This guy has some thoughts on carbon clinchers

    Those videos are a bit meh, to be honest give anyone Internet space and enough viewers and it becomes de facto, rubbish.

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