Still want to run a front mech- is there a metal chainstay plate available etc????

do what i do build it, decide you fancy something else and sell it. There you go no chainsuck.

Don’t buy one. They are ugly.

You wont have it long enough to get chainsuck 😉

I wrapped the chainstay thick in insulation tape. Not exactly going to fend off mega chainsuck but it’ll protect it when it first happens. I’ve never, touch wood, had a problem with chainsuck unless the chainrings / chain was worn.

My drivetrain is always worn.

Andy doing the Peak100? 🙂

I have an anti-chainsuck plate unto the cellar, i suspect it’d just need a longer bolt… or stop being a wimp and go 1 x 9

OR, don’t bother with the 456 and stick with the specialized

Self adhesive carbon fibre sheet available on eBay, cut into a patch. Or you could just cut up a coke can. There’s actually a fair amount of room in there anyway.

The chain-stays are really thick and strong. A conventional stay protector works just fine – or an old inner-tube. No problems.

Yeah, they’re ugly but they work.

Light, comfy, efficient, great angles and FUN. Oh, and inexpensive.

I said I would if you do. I’ll happily do it though.I’ve just had a look at the route on mapmyride. It looks painful. You sorted out a roadbike yet?

I,m after one of these- will they take chainguide running double/bash?

Andy I’ve entered. I’m going to Ribble this week for a measure/see what’s in stock. If not Dolan.

Training wise not too long ago I rode to Bury and back on my trackbike so I know all I need is roadmiles asap now. Lungs/heart = good. Legs = not so good.

We can meet up and and pre-ride the route if you like? You’ve got my email addy.

To be fair, you shouldn’t even consider running gears on OO’s as they are prone to Sucking.

SS – it’s the ONLY way!

Both ally and steel cans failed, the chain just ripped them up. Now running 1×9

Alfine on mine…no chainsuck 8)

Running 3x 10 and not had chain suck.

Andy you do realise I’ll look over my shoulder Lance-style then leave you dead don’t ……you? 😆

(Not)

Running SLX 2 x 9 on mine with a Stinger chain device instead of a spacer. Works great.

Ah, just answered this in the other thread but, for reference, I just don’t worry about it. Simplest option. On One reckon the frame is overbuilt there.

Ahem. I feel qualified to comment here, being THE expert on drastic chain suck, and owning a C456

Basically, I don’t do anything about it. It doesn’t suffer from chainsuck because there’s enough room for the chain to rattle around behind the rings and not dig in. (Unlike, say, err, an 853 Inbred….)

I’ve had it about 14-15 months now and it’s fine.

GOLDEN RULES
make sure you can set gears up correctly. There is a Dark Art to front mechs.
Make sure your chainrings are straight and not worn
Ditto chain
Make sure you have the right length BB in, or the correct spacers behind if HT2
And, most importantly – MAKE SURE YOU ARE AWARE OF THE DICTIONARY DEFINITION OF “MECHANICAL SYMPATHY’ AND DO NOT OPERATE GEARS LIKE A DRUNK GIBBON.

Other than that, fire away. 🙂

I had one, and it got chainsuck on it’s first ride.This was sorted with new rings. However, the carbon seemed to just shrug off the chain, and although the paint was worn through on just one occasion of chainsuck, i reckon there was less damage to the frame itself than there would have been if it were a steel frame. No real damage, just rubbish paint.

This one? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mobile/MobileModels.aspx?ModelID=17282

PP the Peaks eats drivetrain in winter- 2xpads in one wet ride, 1 hollowtech BB in 6weeks….

Got chain suck badly on my (at the time) new c456, factory build, found out it happened when i had just lubed chain, so lube (which was v sticky) made chain stick to the rings , made a lovely gouge in the chainstay

I’m sure there is quite a few other threads on this 😉

Aluminium or steel cans won’t work. Chain just rips through them.
If you want to stick something on you will need a decent thickness bit of stainless and something strong. But shaping it is a problem.

Tape or stick on carbon pads are useless.

Best quick solution is lots of large (6mm wide at least) cable ties wrapped around the stem with the clip thingy at the bottom to block the chain. ie when looking from the drop out towards the front of the frame the cable tie goes clockwise with the clip bit at the bottom and then the bit yo stick though it coming up the inside and down the outside.

I ended up making my own device which completely prevents any chainsuck. I’d be quite keen to see if it could be made commercially as it’s better than any other solution I have seen if anyone has any means of manufacturing (I made my prototype out of carbon fibre as I am better equipped to make things from carbon).

hora – Member

Andy you do realise I’ll look over my shoulder Lance-style then leave you dead don’t ……you?

(Not)

Haha. You may well do. We’ve never done a road ride together. You can drop me on Mow Cop if you like!

I’m thinking- I only ask for and collect my sponsorship IF I finish the route.

That’s a big ask but a challenge.

At the moment I can only just (very slowly) clean edale upto Mam tor on the road on my mtb

You can put a triple on your road bike and with sram you can get a 36tooth cassette. Alternatively you could just go with a standard double and man up.:-)

Old inner tube, rubber cement and a zip tie. Wrapped until there’s only about one mm between the rings and rubber.

I had an 18″ 456Ti and an 18″ 456 steel and no problems.

I built a 14″ 456 up for a girlfriend with quality parts and it was chainsuck from day one. And there are loads of similar stories out there

DO NOT BUY ONE

PP the Peaks eats drivetrain in winter- 2xpads in one wet ride, 1 hollowtech BB in 6weeks….

Relevance to chainsuck? Relevance to set-up? None. 🙂

Pretty much the same as Swinley forest though, the Peaks, when it comes to wearing stuff out, FYI….