Coming a bit late to the dropper post party, I want to try and squeeze the maximum drop out of the available space between my seatclamp and bum – because more is better? If I go for a 150mm drop I think it will extend ~5mm too high even at full insert. Does anyone have a similar thing going on? Is it really annoying having to squeeze the post down a tiny bit every time you extend it? So should I just accept getting a 120mm drop post instead?
Cheers.

I haven’t, but I have avoided it as it would be annoying (to me) – I’m very fussy about saddle pedaling height though.

Surely this is reason enough for a new bike. Just make sure the post can be locked in any position then your bum will stop it where it’s comfortable. Or get a smaller drop end of the day it’s down to you.

Depending on the post, you may be able to lose a smidge more.
The Reverb for instance has the connectamajig. This can be removed and a normal connection made to give a little more insertion iirc.

Try it out first by lowering your saddle 125mm and getting rad. See if it’s low enough to enable full radicalness. If so, get a 125mm dropper.
If not, maybe consider the above angle.

You might also look at lower profile saddles though I doubt you’d claw back 5mm.

Thicker pedals? Platform shoes? 😀

Different posts have different stack heights. I bought a bikeyoke revive as the 165mm fitted where I couldn’t fit a 150mm reverb.

Or trim your seat tower by 5mm

Or shorter cranks.

^^^ Often it’s what’s down the tube that stops it though innit, not the seat tower.

My Rocket suspension pivot starts to get in the way on mine for example.

For me having a post that I had to drop 5mm to be able to ride the bike would be a massive hassle to the point that I wouldn’t ride the bike at all . Go for 125mm of drop it will be much better .

If you can’t quite reach a 150mm dropper then you can almost certainly switch to shorter cranks and thus raise your seat, unless you’re already on 165s. Problem solved. And better pedalling.

chiefgrooveguru – Member
If you can’t quite reach a 150mm dropper then you can almost certainly switch to shorter cranks and thus raise your seat, unless you’re already on 165s. Problem solved. And better pedalling.

I like this thinking. I would switch to 165mm cranks anyway, if I could afford to!

If it goes low enough when it is fully down then yes.
Because you set the max height under your bum by fiddling with the switch. I had one that was too long and had zero issues.

Careful measurements called for, but personally I’d just get the 150. One of the nice things about most droppers is the infinite range of adjustment, and it soon becomes second nature to be adjusting saddle height while climbing and JRA to suit the terrain, not just slamming it for descents. I don’t really see that a post that might pop up a couple of mm high is a problem personally, I’d rather have that than have a post that has so much sticking up even in the down position that you still catch your shorts on it…

To be fair, a reverb will probably sag that much pretty quickly anyway.

Thanks for all the thoughts that gives m plenty of things to think about and justify whichever conclusion I come to. I’m going to check how far I normally drop my saddle out of the way, have a look in my tube for blockages and go buy some platforms (although 5:10s already feel that way!).
Ta

I like this thinking. I would switch to 165mm cranks anyway, if I could afford to!

I’m getting quite out of date now, being unboosted and ten speed (but still 64 deg head angle and 170mm dropper) but I’m sure my XT 10 speed triple cranks weren’t expensive – I swapped from SLX and Zee 175s in the hunt for more pedal clearance. And despite having long legs they work better!

If it’s a stealth dropper make sure the port is low enough. Had to take the Connectajig off my 170 to get it to fit.

I am tempted to cut down the seat tube on my Aeris to allow me to fit a 150mm reverb. Plenty of extra material to do it but dont want to mess up the warranty.

What post do you have. Reverb has a big stack height compared to say a magura. My magura is slammed right to the collar in my large rocket. Other options include a thin saddle and different cranks.

Check out Bikeyoke Revive. 160mm drop with a lot less overall length than most droppers, some of that must be above the seatclamp.

As far as having your saddle too high, it will irritate the hell out of you trying to adjust it to your correct pedalling height with your arse – or knacker your achilles.

To be fair, a reverb will probably sag that much pretty quickly anyway.

Amen brother.

It’s worth looking at some of the 150mm droppers with a shorter stack height like the KS Lev.

Enduro-mtb had a dropper round up last year which gave the stack height for each post (near bottom of page): Rise and Fall – Top 10 of the best dropper seatposts.

I have a Brand-X XL and that has an actual stroke of 147m, stack height 61mm, seat collar to rails should be 208mm, and the full insertion length about 260mm.

If the 9Point8 Fall Line is in budget then they sell a spacer kit to reduce the stroke of the post.

that Bike Yoke looks tempting. Bit £££ though.

Anyone know if the standard band remote is sram matchamaker compatible? Got to buy some Sram adapters for my shifter anyway (Hope brakes) so could just buy both left and right adapters instead of ordering the ispec B version (more £ and less flexible long term)

Just go for the 150mm dropper post.
If you get a RS Reverb then after a few weeks it will sag 5mm or so when you sit on it anyway.
Problem solved.

If it’s only 5mm you could maybe get 5mm longer cranks.Say if your running 170’s currently – go to 175’s .

If you get a RS Reverb then after a few weeks it will sag 5mm or so when you sit on it anyway..

Amen, again.

If it’s only 5mm you could maybe get 5mm longer cranks.Say if your running 170’s currently – go to 175’s .

You want shorter cranks not longer cranks!

Ignore my comment-I said it arse about face. 😀