Just got some Tektro Lyra cable discs on my Roadrat and TBH they are not that brill.

The rear especially, seems to have a lot of ‘stretch’ in the cable when applying them.

I have got Clarkes std brake cables, do good quality cables make a big difference to the performance?

you will have to excuse my ignorance, but I normally run hydraulic brakes, this is my first set of cable discs

Ta

oh and if they do make a difference which ones should I buy?

Ta

Chucky

I think the problem might be the brakes themselves: with the exception of Avid BB7s, cable discs are universally slated as being pretty pants.

But if you do suspect cables you can’t go wrong with Shimano XTRs, very smooth indeed.

Apparently ‘linear’ brake cable is the way forward, its like gear cable in that its made of strands of wire running along the cable rather than the usual spiral type you use for canti’s/v’s. Ive not tried it myself but hoping to soon as ive got some BB7’s i need to fit (p.s my BB7’s felt awful with clarks standard cables)

Might also be worth checking the caliper’s alignment as well, the fixed pad should be almost touching the disc, if it isn’t you’ll get a spongey feel to the lever as you’re bending the disc to reach the pad(and it’ll hit at an angle, so you won’t be getting full pad contact).

Massive difference, My Tektro IO’s with Shimano Deore brake cables I think are less spongy than my mates recently bled Avid Juicy 3’s.

Avid FMJ’s make a huge difference to mechanical discs.

Though if they’re not BB7’s is suspect they’ll still be a bit shite.

Gear cable outers make sense because they do not compress ( much) unlike brake outers

It’s all about the outer. I had some Avid outers that were linear, maybe they were the FMJ that singlespeedstu mentioned, they were really good, a lot stiffer than gear outer so difficult to route but made a big difference especially on the rear brake

Let us know how you get on. It would be great if the Lyras worked.

This is interesting. just had a look at FMJ’s and it seems that you use bits of straight pipe between flexy curves. Correct. Is this a pain? On drop bars there is alot of curve.
Are there other cables specifically suggested. ie make and model?

I think the problem might be the brakes themselves: with the exception of Avid BB7s, cable discs are universally slated as being pretty pants.

I’ve never tried BB7s but I do have some Hayes MX4s and to be honest they’re not that bad. Not as good as my XT hydros but Overall a much nicer experience than my old Juicy 5s when you consider ease of maintenance.

Avid, hayes and shimano make useable cable disk brakes. Anything else, especially no-brand crappies are useless.

matts.

Yep they use metal pipe on the straight runs.

Not that difficult to set up at all.

I’ve got FMJ’s on my dropbar Gryphon and my cross bike.

how come my tektro Io’s are bloody good then? i dont understand, so many people slate the tektro mechanicals. But mine are great. The IOx ones i have are pants, but there also with crap cables. Not tested properly really.

I have also got some in line adjusters, maybe these are not helping.

the FMJ are nearly as much as the bloody brakes !!!!!

what do you guys think of the Dura-ace ones? a bit cheaper 😉

Oh and the inner pad is just touching the disc so no deflection is occuring.

With FMJ’s do you stick a bit in wherever you can, ie 6″ under the bar tape?
What do you find works best for the bendy bits? Linear outer I suspect but which?
Just wondering really how good to expect. Anything is better than bloody v’s IMHO but reckon the cable discs are about as good as modern dual pivot road brakes. Should I be after more or what?

I use BMX cables & outers. Mainly for the pretty colours.

Just looking at prices. 13 quid for front. 50 for both ends . How does the rear add up to so much? I reckon I would need no more than a front bit for either end. The length down the seat tube is less than the length down my fork. Anyone got a full bike pic?

Don’t think you need the inline adjusters as the lyra has an adjuster. A report said the front worked a treat with 80cm of cable, which suggests it is a cable issue.

saladdodger – Member
Gear cable outers make sense because they do not compress ( much) unlike brake outers

Keep an eye on them as they WILL split – not designed for the same forces.

Brake cables are also a different diameter to gear cables usually, so the outers aren’t compatible.

Another thing to check for, is that you don’t have too much outer cable between the caliper and final frame-stop,trying to cram an extra inch into this fixed space can cause stiff cables/spongey lever feel.Enough for a smooth routing and snug fit is ideal.

I needed a rear brake cable in a hurry the other day for my v brake so popped into Halfords and bought the fairly cheap Clarks set with teflon coating. I also put new pads on which were Shimano ceramic specific and replaced Avid ceramic pads. I couldn’t believe the difference, the rear brake is now performing as well as the BB7 at the front. I haven’t changed the cable on that yet but it will be interesting to see how much difference that makes.

It’s all about the cable.

If you hear someone complaining about BB7s, that’s a person who doesn’t use decent cables.

Hydraulics feel good because of the incompressibility of fluids. Cable brakes can approach that with outers that do not compress. Using the Avid Full Metal Jacket is worthwhile.

Gear inners work well in brake outers for brakes.

In any event even a spnogy feeling BB5/7 can stoip well, for me FMJ are too pricey.

have a similare porblem, off to buy some bmx outer tonight on my way home, hopefully from halfords if they have it. See if that helps my problem. It appears that bmx cable is linear.

I think I’m going to go for the Lyra’s. Bet I can get them to work well.
BTW are you using plastic cable ferrules?

I’ve always found Jagwires to be very good.

I tried cable disc brakes for the first time today. Took me back to my youth. It’s been years since I wondered when (or if) I was going to stop. 😆

Highly recommended.

I have the Lyra’s as that what is used on the Cotic X as a complete bike. mine was just a frame but it semed a good idea. The front is fine but the back is a touch spongy using the standard cable. can’t blame the outer too much as there as only a few inches more than the front. Might consider FMJ’s if I can work out what to buy. can’t see how the rear is so much more pricey without inspection.
One thing i have found is that the front worked so much nicer with a non wavey rotor. You can feel the cutouts with a wavy. I guess its because of the uneven pressure from cales. Replaced the front one and its great. Got a rear one coming as well.

Might consider FMJ’s if I can work out what to buy.

They come as a kit that does front and rear.
It includes three metal pipes, all the cable ferruls,outer housing and inner cables.

Just found most of a kit in my garage and fitted it to my fatbike (BB7’s) and it’s firmed up the lever feel and stopping power loads.

What about Nokons?

Well just got back from a quick round the block ride with the new Dura-ace cables fitted. Made sure they are a short as possible and no in line adjusters fitted.

A big difference, the rear locks up very easily, still a little bit or ‘stretch’ feeling but I assume this is normal.

The brakes are getting better as well, so they seem to need bedding in a bit.

Cheers for the advice lads, and the reason for not going with the FMJ SSstu was purely the price.

so to answer my own question, yes it does make a difference.

my wife has a kona fitte dwith cable operated hayes discs,
pulled by generic cheapy brake cables.
they work just fine, plenty of power, although modulation isnt quite up to the standard of hydro discs.
ime, with almost all types of brakes, taking the time to set them up properly is well worth it, a well setup cheap brake is better than a badly set up expensive brake.

good to hear that vortex, ordered some goodrich cable and will stick on a round rotor and see how we get on

ta

Actually I a pair of round rotors on my jump bike thingy, they are Tektro as well, may be worth a swap.

cheers for the pointer mattsccm

If you don’t want to splash out on FMJs, you can homebrew your own.

Go to B&Q or Wickes and buy the appropriate diameter aluminium tubing. Buy a length of the next size up to cut short length for the cable stop part and epoxy them on.

I’ve got the tubing, but haven’t got round to trying it yet, so if you lose your teeth doing this, it’s your own risk. 🙂

Jeff Jones makes his own brake and gear housings from stanless tubing bent to fit the frame. The only bit that’s flexible is from the lever/shifter to the top of the tube just back from the headtube.

I have seen the kit. Trying to work it out. I need a front steel bit to go down the fork and the same to go down the seat stay. open cables along the top tube and the rest is bendy. 13 quid for a front kit and 49 for both ends. Thats why I am wondering a bit. Length wise teh flexi bits are near identical.