Just getting the temptation to try leaving the ground on a jump bike. Done a bit before and enjoyed it up until the hospital stay. I was looking at a few and realised I could buy quite a good bike for the first budget amount I had set.

I always used to start with cheap stuff and work up to more expensive stuff but am now in the lucky position of being able to buy something reasonable to begin with.

Upside : I know I will use it, it is an extra bike not the only bike, I can afford it.

Downside : I will turn up at the jump site on a shiney bike with all the gear but no idea.

I have deliberately not declared the budget but as a general rule is it better to buy the best you can afford or the cheapest you can get away with. I guess second hand jump bikes have taken quite a beating.

Head over to SDH forum alot of DJ bikes get bought used twice then sold for something with a spring in the middle – there's a nice brooklyn going for peanuts at the moment.

If you like the bike and want to jump – buy what you want, WGAS about what the skinny assed jean wearing scenesters think at the trails.

The only way to make friends at trails is to respect the trails and take a shovel with you and offer to help dig – just dont go changing stuff when the locals arnt there or building new stuff off your own back (this DOES piss off the locals)

Buy functional but not flashy? i.e. in MTB terms SLX not XT…

Ride the crest of the wave of diminishing returns… or something…

a jump bike for jumping what? dirt jumps?

Dirt Jumping.

I currently help digging at the local jump site as I like the crowd but don't actually fide the jumps as a fully rigid 69er fixie isn't the ideal kit.

Jedi – IF and it is still IF I do get a jump bike I might spend some of my budget on getting you to teach me how to get my wheels to leave the ground. I have only heard good things about your tuition.

wca, i'll teach you how/why to jump where you take it from there is up to your own imagination

where you take it from there is up to your own imagination

It is my imagination that landed me in hospital which is why I thought I'd learn how to jump first this time.

😉

Buy a cheap s/h one, then you won't be too upset when you crash and bend it. Then you get all the fun of upgrading later if you like it.

Any hints on spec and stuff welcome. <£700 all in. Second hand is fine but won't be buying until the new year. Even then it is dependent on the wife accepting* new double glazing is a fair swap for another (potentially dangerous) bike.

*Obviously I wear the trousers in my house, she just says which ones I can wear

Single speed, geared, Front mech, no front mech, Intended use ie, pump track, bmx track, dirt jumps, play biking, steps, drops etc, bit of street, local xc bits and bobs with some urban riding too.

Have a think about the places you are likely to use it and take from there. Something with some ability to move the saddle up for road bits can be a good idea,( ie lengthening the cockpit) as such bikes can be nice and small with the saddle down.

Although others probably know more.

singlespeed and rigid is the way foreward, although rigid forks do snap/crackle/pop a lot quicker than suspension ones, so maybe some cheep DJ2's while your starting out, either that or go 24" or smaller, shorter forks = less load = less snapping.

Next time it's a dryish day I could always bring my DMR sidekick2 upto LW for you to have a play on. Bring on the cold weather to freeze the mud.

I got it for a decent price brand spank (cancelled customer order)

Great solid spec but I made a few tweaks to the spec as I can't help myself plus had the spares – 9 speed (not fit enough for ss) bar/stem/saddle swap may also be swapping the DJ3s for pikes as they are made out of lead.

Great little bike. Out of the stable the one that gets used the most 🙂

Here it is on CRC to give you an idea
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23224

If I could actually ride doubles I would probably go for a specific tool such as a SS 24 inch jump bike with 80mm travel/ rigid But as I do not I like my geared 4x bike for playing / blastin around on .

you could try with mine 😉
It will be small enough so it's a jump bike for you and not so exclusive.
Honest just don't break it
To much 😉

The plan is for a purely dirt jump bike. Anyone who remembers what the Wonderland pump/jump stuff up Lordswood would know what I mean. It is less than 1/2 a mile from the house so don't need to ride far. Have and XC and SS rigid for riding.

Never been than worried about breaking toys which is why I asked about getting something good the first time around rather than buying cheap and then paying upgrades. 1 big payment is easier to slip past the wife than lots of little ones.

Well still have a go with mine just do you makes surte dirt jumping is for you
Oh btw the tee have landed 😀

another option IMHO is a second hand steel 24inch dirt jump bmx (possibly?).

Juan – I have been using yours. It is totally fcuked now so I need a new one

😉

Pics of you in the T-shirt posted up here please!

I had a second hand BMX but it got nicked by my 8 year old godson

For starters..

http://www.winstanleysbmx.com/product/19097/MirraCo_Icon_20Forty_24Inch_Bike_2009

PS don't rule out Bournemouth's bmx track 😀

Okay Juiced. Probably a good bike. Would it be worth spending double that?

Clearly some people do and some don't so assuming that £300 and £600 meant no difference would the more expensive bike be better and in what ways? Or would I just break the better bits and have to replace them at the same rate I broke the bits on the cheaper bike?

That was the original question I was asking but got a bit sidetracked.

Serious question. With XC you pay more for less what do you pay more for on dirt jump bikes?

http://www.identitibikes.com/identitibikes/products-details.php?id=5IT86S6G

strength and reassurance ( and bits that are easier to live with) i.e. steel crmo frames, sealed bearings, decent components ie cranks, bars, strong wheels, decent fork. compared to say a mongoose ritual etc. that unless your smooth ( ie experienced – may last longer)

IGMC

wca, just email when you want the coaching(dates)

You pay more for strength without it being ridiculously heavy.

Brooklyn ACL :-

£650 on Southern Downhill Prob knock him down a bit. (not mine btw)

All the bike you need for DJ'ing and 4X

Simple nice tidy steel frame single speed, DJ forks, rear brake.

OR if you want to go super pimp –

DEMON

my point is you could probably go cheap with that 24 inch bmx as it would be pretty strong. Cromo frames and bars, 3 piece, reasonablish wheels etc Say £300.
Or for the equivalent dj or better mtb the price would double. See links one and two.

However would then doubling everything again be twice as good.. not sure

Well just cause these bikes are cheap I don't think it means they will break. It just means they weigh the same as a car….

I was very impressed with all the DMR own brand kit that came on my bike felt completely bombproof. In the end I've swapped some of it out for lighter spares I had simply because I think it's designed for do alot 'bigger' airs and tricks than I'm putting it through and thus I don't need such over built kit.

Identiti 666 was also on my list, but I got a decent deal on a DMR.

Have you picked the wheel size you want? I had a go on a 24" and it just felt wrong and I wanted to keep the same wheel size as the fullsus

WCA… No idea if this is any good but it cought my eye as I really like the look of Trailstar frames and this is a whole bike brand new for the price of a frame.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DMR-Trailstar-Singlespeed-Bike-grey-brand-new_W0QQitemZ370263993507QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Bikes_GL?hash=item5635742ca3

The 24"/26" thing is personal choice

just remember a 24" BMX is completely different to a 24" MTB

Personaly I can't stand 26" wheels on a jump bike, just feels heavy and wrong. 24" BMX's just felt ballenced betwen twitchy and stable, 20" feels like theres nothing there, even when your riding arround on a 30lb of top spec cr-mo with wheels that'll make most DH wheels seem light!