Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Building with wood
  • aracer
    Free Member

    Looking at building a semi-freestanding rack to store kayaks outside. From what I can gather the most economical material to use will be wood, and I have a design, but wondering if there's any good information out there on the best way to build with it – e.g. how do I best make a corner joint, how do I attach to a wall? Anybody an expert on this or can point me in the direction of some good info (or suggest that wood isn't the best choice at all).

    nickc
    Full Member

    Building with wood? Try thinking of Margaret Thatcher, always works for me…

    5lab
    Full Member

    the cheapest way to add bulk\structure is using wood

    the easiest way to join bits of wood is, I'd suggest, metal brackets

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Let me google that for you:

    TheFunkyMonkey
    Free Member

    Get tantalised timber and use good quality galvanised brackets if required.

    I wouldn't bother with stainless screws though, they cost a fortune.

    ernie_lynch
    Free Member

    CLS timber, sterling board, 3&4" nails, and felt. Drill plug & screw into brick wall. Sorted.

    Although I would build it out of straw.

    Aren't kayaks waterproof btw ?

    aracer
    Free Member

    Aren't kayaks waterproof btw ?

    Yes, and? I'm trying to make a rack, not a cover (will cover them with a tarp to keep the UV off, which does damage them).

    Don't know what you googled for, molgrips, I wasn't getting anything relevant with my searches. Not that making furniture is at all relevant either – thanks anyway.

    Thanks for the helpful comments – pretty much confirms my thoughts. Had thought of getting all fancy with mitred joints, but it looks like straight cut butt joints and metal brackets will do the job. Is far more complex than it could be as I want to store them in the passage by the side of the house, but against the wall which is part of next door's garage, so don't really want to go drilling into that for support, hence "semi-freestanding".

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    hammer nails drill big screws & coach bolts works every time

    carlos
    Free Member

    My 2p

    Cut a triangle from some sterling board/ply and use that in the corners fix it to the external edge of the timber, very simple and strong when you put one in each corner. As for fixing to the wall plug and screw it as already said, maybe just ask the neighbour first before drilling. gat down to B&Q and get yourself one of those fill it as much as you can bags of screws and buy screws one inch/25mm longer than the thickness of the wood, personally I wouldn't nail it.

    spooky_b329
    Full Member

    those bags are quite well hidden in our store. If you fill them carefully you can get a silly amount of stuff in them…put the big screws head to toe and pack in the tiny screws as you go 🙂 It was an art form 🙂

    hamishthecat
    Free Member

    Get tantalised timber

    How does that work then? Do you promise you're going to give it a really good waxing, and then just ignore it?

    NZCol
    Full Member

    We have a boat rack under our house for surf skis and doubles.
    Just used treated cheap timeber in a sort of upside down xmas tree affair off a single central post from roof to floor. Top tip is cover each rack arm with old carpet, means you can slide boats in and out (watch out for your venturis on a ski though as they are always really craply attached) and use 3 arms instead of 2 to avoid sagging.

    ernie_lynch
    Free Member

    Yes, and? I'm trying to make a rack, not a cover

    Why do I never give your posts the attention which they undoubtedly deserve aracer ? 😕 …….I'm really going to have to read them properly in the future – instead of just glancing at them 😐

    I read the word "store" but not the word "rack" – I thought you were building a store for your kayaks. Which of course renders my previous post into worthless nonsense. For a rack I reckon the already mention suggestions of tanalised timber and coach bolts are the best – that's what I would go for. With the timber being screwed onto external brickwork.

    aracer
    Free Member

    watch out for your venturis on a ski though as they are always really craply attached

    Ah, but the one I've just bought has a retractable bailer 😉 Not that I'll be sliding it out end-on – access is easier from the side.

    Do I really need 3 arms? Seems like a pain to get the heights right, whilst the K2s in the club (similar length, not a huge amount lighter, probably no stiffer) happily sit on just 2. Plan is to have wide arms covered with pipe lagging, though it's plausible given how the rack will work that I could use the arms just as a temporary resting place whilst I hang it in webbing slings.

    khani
    Free Member

    if you get tantalised 😆 or even tannalised timber, wear gloves when handling it because if you get a splinter, VERY nasty things can happen.
    it is the only stuff that will last outside though

    NZCol
    Full Member

    We have 3 ony because our AR doubles are a bit heavier 25kgish, skis and multisport boats etc are totally cool on 2 arms. Pipe lagging works, we just use carpet cos its cheap and hard wearing.

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