Bodging Hydros onto drops « Singletrack Forum

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Bodging Hydros onto drops

82 posts & 32 voices | Started 1 year ago by oldgit | Latest reply from firestarter

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oldgit - Member

Done some highly scientific calculations and have come to the conclusion that normal hydro levers would work 'okay' with a Midge type bar.

I've been tinkering with a broken Deore hydro lever and the dog leg in the actual lever is perfectly within reach. And these ones in particular have an almost hood like body.

But and it's a big but, the clamp is too small. So the only way they'd fit perfectly would be to machine the clamp out.

I've clamped the broken one on (albeit rather badly) but it works and the aesthetics aren't too bad.
So am I over looking any potential pitfulls.

?

Posted 1 year ago #
nonk - Member

some systems dont like the resevoir tipped up at funny angles?

Posted 1 year ago #
oldnpastit - Member

Won't it be really nasty riding in the hoods?

EDIT: and a bit worrying if you've machined the clamps out?

When I bleed my deores, I rotate the reservoir until it's horizontal, then take the top off. Will that still be possible on midge bars?

Posted 1 year ago #
TandemJeremy - Member

I don't like the sound of a machined out clamp - how much material is needed to be removed?

How about the cable to hydro conversions like on this thread
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/drop-bars-and-hydraulic-disk-brakes

Posted 1 year ago #
alex222 - Member

why on earth would you want to?

Posted 1 year ago #
firestarter - Member

The king of Sweden has some

why on earth would you want to?

Erm drop bars off road but with good brakes ? Other than bb7 road that is

Posted 1 year ago #
oldgit - Member

Yeah machining would weaken the typically cast type clamp. Looking at again removing the entire clamp and ataching your own 'strap type' clamp would do the trick.

I'll be using Midge bars, and they throw the lever out at an angle, making the cheapo Deore body pretty comfortable to hold onto. Plus they'd have a bit of bar tape around them.
I'm taking them into my mates engineering workshop for his asessment Wednesday, the guys done loads of mods from making and welding on disc mounts to building complete frames.

BTW it's to go onto a Croix De Fer build, and bleeding isn't a job you do that often really.

Posted 1 year ago #
oldgit - Member

This is the puppy in question.

Posted 1 year ago #
TandemJeremy - Member

Teh other thing to watch is where the outlet from the reservoir into the master cylinder would end up - would it suck air in?

Posted 1 year ago #
oldgit - Member

I'm not quite sure what you mean there TJ, but they only be at the same angle as for example they'd be on some Jones bars. This idea would have no hope on normal drops.
The side you can't see already has a tapped hole in the body itself.
First thoughts are to remove the entire clamp and fit a stainless strap.

Posted 1 year ago #
partyboy - Member

Why would you want drop bars offroad anyway, does it make you more aero or just more niche?

Posted 1 year ago #
cynic-al - Member

One word:

Avid BB7 or 5

Posted 1 year ago #
oldnpastit - Member

That's 4 words!

Posted 1 year ago #
TandemJeremy - Member

The resovoir ( the bit you put the fluid in) has a drilling into the master cylinder ( the bit with the piston in) the drilling has to remain below the level of the fluid at all times or it will draw air into the system( as even with the diaphragm its almost impossible not to get a tiny bit of air in the reservoir

this is why if you pull the lever with the bike upside down the brake goes spongy sometimes

Sounds like the angles you have will be OK tho

Posted 1 year ago #
Mister P - Member

I am not going to comment apart from please put pics up when / if you work it out, I am quite fascinated by how it will look.

Posted 1 year ago #
oldgit - Member

One I don't want flat bars on a disc only crosser, and two...yes BB7s would be my first choice of cable discs.

But I'm thinking I'll want to brake from the drops - mostly - and this would put the levers just at the right spot.

Posted 1 year ago #
oldgit - Member

Posted 1 year ago #
rob - Member

using magura julies on midge bars. Will take some pics tomoro

Posted 1 year ago #
cynic-al - Member

You'll need to spread the clamp from 22.2 to 23.8 dia...5mm circ. And accommodate the curve, bit of filing needed.

I like bodge but with the price of avids on eBay makes it a daft idea - v difficult to get right and always a compromise even if you manage it.

My recent bodge ideas have been more sensible but I've gotten a right slagging from many Inc. TJ for them.

Posted 1 year ago #
igm - Member

How about mounting them on the lowest / furthest back section of the bar with the lever sticking back into the normal brake lever zone?

I've seen normal road brakes mounted that way on chopped bars.

It would sort the drawing air in problem, but would it put the brake lever in reach?

Posted 1 year ago #
oldgit - Member

Hmmm, thing is I want the best braking when I'm into the drops. I've gaffer taped them into place and I can use one finger to brake from the drops and from what would be the hood area, but in the drops I can get full coverage.

This build isn't out to win any awards for good looks, I just want a build that reflects my riding which is long and only mildly technical xc rides. I felt totally overbiked with an MTB.

Posted 1 year ago #
epicyclo - Member

I like the idea. I've been eyeing off hydraulic levers for ages to see if one can be modified for dropbar use. Reaming 0.5mm out of the mount is unlikely to cause a problem IMO.

I'm using BB7s on 2 dropbar bikes. The curves introduced by making the cable go through tight curves to conform to the bar reduces the brake performance. I have one set using old fashioned levers where the cables come out the top, and they feel much better than those with the aero levers.

I've got a set of Magura HS77s dropbar hydraulic levers and considered trying to modify them to work with a disk, oldgit's idea sounds more feasible.

Posted 1 year ago #
martinxyz - Member

Find a sleeve similar diameter/thickness and fettle that first.I just picture you drilling it out and finding that to get around the bends on those bars,you will have to take more and more out.. leaving something you didnt expect! The first crash could see all your hard work end in tears.Maybe even the tightening of the clamp onto the bars could pop it before the first ride,who knows.

I would find an old lever and take it from there.be safe!

Posted 1 year ago #
druidh - Member

Buy some Hydros with a split clamp?

Can't say I have any problems using BB7s though - even on "modern" STIs

Posted 1 year ago #
andrewh - Member

I've got a set of Magura HS77s dropbar hydraulic levers and considered trying to modify them to work with a disk, oldgit's idea sounds more feasible.

WANT!

Posted 1 year ago #
epicyclo - Member

andrewh - Member
'I've got a set of Magura HS77s dropbar hydraulic levers and considered trying to modify them to work with a disk, oldgit's idea sounds more feasible.'
WANT!

I think there was a set on eBay the other day.

I've got a set of HS66s too

Oldgit, what are you going to do about your gear change if you do this?

Posted 1 year ago #
andrewh - Member

Must have been listed between hen's teeth and rocking horse manure.

Posted 1 year ago #
oldgit - Member

Oldgit, what are you going to do about your gear change if you do this?

I'm using bar end shifters anyway. Again for trail riding I don't make that many changes, and they fall in place nicely on Midges.

Posted 1 year ago #
epicyclo - Member

oldgit - Member
I'm using bar end shifters anyway. Again for trail riding I don't make that many changes, and they fall in place nicely on Midges.

I've been using Versa levers with my BB7s - I'm finding them a bit imprecise, but I'm going to play around with the cable routing etc before blaming them.

I wonder if this mod would be better done with a split clamp lever.

Posted 1 year ago #
doof_doof - Member

So you're over-biked on a mtb, but under-braked on a X bike with Avid discs?

Posted 1 year ago #
TandemJeremy - Member

edit rubish

Posted 1 year ago #
epicyclo - Member

This is one possibility I had for a hydraulic on drop bars. The clamp would have to be remade.

doof_doof - Member
So you're over-biked on a mtb, but under-braked on a X bike with Avid discs?

Not sure I understand your comment.
Over-biked? How did you come to that conclusion?.
Under-braked? - the brakes setup with the Versa levers are stronger than any road/cx brakes I have, but do not feel as good as on my 29er which also has drop bars. This is a problem I am addressing.

Posted 1 year ago #
molgrips - Member

I'd just go with flats and bar ends...

Posted 1 year ago #
mattsccm - Member

Ongoing issue isn't it? Not solved by swapping bars or bikes or anything else. I want hydo's on drops as well. My solution was going to be clamp split clamp hydro levers onto the centre of my drop bars just like the cx top lever thingies. Run a cable from my STi brakes under the tpe, through a stop and pull the brake lever near the pivot point. Seen this once on the web but can't fnd the pic now. Yet to find split clamp hydros, that don't have the hoses running in line with the vers and at a decent price.
I did wonder if Magura rim brake levers which are less bulky, would power a hydro disc but doubt it.
Come on, we will solve this before Shimano do.

Posted 1 year ago #
firestarter - Member

Matt hope and formula have split clamp and you can adjust angle of hose. I thought of just your method with cable stops from sjs but haven't gotten around to it just yet as lost my mojo lol

Posted 1 year ago #