Finally, new dropouts made and fitted.
[url= http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6202/6121970692_a2399cdb2f_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/ir_bandito/6121970692/ ]DSC_0008[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/ir_bandito/ ]ir_bandito[/url], on Flickr
Integral snubber.
Integral tensioner to prevent slipping.
Modified geometry for longer wheelbase=more belt tension
10mm Bolt-in hub for lateral stiffness.
Need to fit the rear brake yet. Job for thursday evening...
If this is new to you, check my forum history. For the last year or so.
nice and chunky
Looks good.
Not sure longer wheelbase means higher tension...do you work in marketing?
It does for a fixed length of belt Al...
Of course...but it's then no longer than before?
maybe he was right at the end of his old dropouts but the belt was still slightly slack. longer dropouts means more room to tension that last bit.
looking good all the same
Looking good.
Looking sh!t but functional, but then that's because you're an engineer.
If you were in marketing it would look good, but probably not work. 😉
🙂 at PJ
Have you tried fitting disc calliper yet? Just wondering how the [i]longer wheelbase=more belt tension[/i] has affected disc mount/hub overlap
You have to view it as a working prototype. Hence the several iterations...
thepodge is right about the wheelbase. In these latest dropouts, the rear-bolt hole is moved forward 5mm, relative to the wheel axle, so the dropout can move 5mm further back in the slot.
he was right at the end of his old dropouts but the belt was still slightly slack. longer dropouts means more room to tension that last bit.
this is true.
You need to swap those nasty hex heads for socket caps and the button head screw on the snubber is rusty.
I went with hex-heads so I could torque the bolts up to high-heaven (technical term) to prevent slipping.
Hopefully, I won't need to move them now, I've yet to try treplacing the wheel when the belt is tensioned...
Update - I have seen it out tonight and it's working 😀
torque the bolts up to high-heaven
shirley you'd strip the alu threads before the bolt. And a multi-tool hex key is much better to carry around than a spanner? Although I do carry a little one for doing my Alfine hub nuts 😕
I am guessing the sliding drop out on the other side has the brake mount on it so the brake caliper moves with the wheel? (to answer the brake question above)
That is my preferred system of sliding drop out - none of these stupid slotted caliper mounts were you have to readjust the caliper using guess work.
Are you screwing directly into the aluminium drop out or did you use chainring style insert nuts in the back face we can't see?
Not sure about the exposed snubber bearing but I guess it is easy to clean or replace and it's not going to cause much of a problem if it gets sticky as it's not actually touching is it?