Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)
  • Bashguards
  • frazerbird
    Free Member

    Just a quickie…

    Recently brought a 3 spd chainset and was wondering whether i can get a bashguard fitted.

    Alot of you may say one isn’t needed, your probably right but i don’t want my ankles getting hacked into lol.

    Thanks in advance

    Frazer

    coolhandluke
    Free Member

    I like the polycarbonate ones by FSA, cheap and they last.

    Remove the big ring, and a 32 tooth sized bash should fit fine. The FSA bash guards come with sets of fixings for this.

    Not sure if you can have a bash and three rings though.

    Both my mountain bikes have bash guards as I found the big ring just either ripped my kecks if I was just popping to the shops or my leg if I fell off.

    first thing I do with a new chainset is remove the big ring.

    kayak23
    Full Member

    Bashguard is a very good idea in my opinion.
    There is a hideous photo of a blokes leg in this month’s MBUK (it’s a mates…..) Which has been completely butchered by his outer chainring. Horrendous.

    You will have to lose the biggest ring and just run the inner two but that is something a lot of folks do these days. I just use one 32 tooth ring, but a popular ratio is probably a 36 and a 22 tooth pair.

    Bear in mind if you use quite a thick bashguard you may have to buy longer chainring bolts. Also, you need to set the limit screw on your front mech so it doesn’t try to shift into the bashguard.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    Worth looking at the 36t option.easy fix and fit

    frazerbird
    Free Member

    Wow thank you for your feedback guys, much appreciated.

    I currently have a 22.32.44 chainset. And you say removing the 44 ring will allow for a bashguard. By removing the 44 ring i wont then be like oh bugger i needed that ring hahah

    Frazer

    frazerbird
    Free Member

    Also do you need a 2spd front derailleur or just use a 3 spd but obviously not go into 3 😀

    passtherizla
    Free Member

    you can adjust your limit screw on the front derailer so its doesn’t go up into 3rd ring position this also stops the shifter going into 3rd.

    frazerbird
    Free Member

    passtherizla – Thank you for confirming that

    soundninjauk
    Full Member

    Just made this modification myself. Originally had a 22/32/44 triple, removed the 44 and replaced with a bashguard, adjusted the limit screw for the front mech, and picking up a 36t deore chainring this weekend to finish it off 🙂

    chriswilk
    Free Member

    change the 32 middle to a 36.
    Good, light and cheap bask guards can be got from bbg bashguards in the states, worth a google

    starfanglednutter
    Free Member

    I did this on mine (36T Deore) and got a BBG bashguard. It’s pretty indestructible (comes with lifetime warranty) and even when shipped from the US (takes about two weeks, no import duties) – was cheap as chips. About £10 all in. And the best thing is that it was actually lighter than the big ring it replaced…
    http://bbgbashguard.com/

    Btw – I recommend going with steel bolts if your chainset came with aluminium.

    idiotdogbrain
    Free Member

    I’ll second the recommendation for the BBG bashrings, bought one each for me and the OH and they’re spot on and really cheap too.

    frazerbird
    Free Member

    this is now something im definately considering.

    I have always had single speed at the front, fancied a change with a 3spd but dont think my ankles agree lol

    Squidlord
    Free Member

    I asked the same recently. Chap recommended one from Salsa. Not bought one yet though.
    singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/bashguard-question

    frazerbird
    Free Member

    Just quickly bringing this subject back to life

    Most of you have suggested using 22t and a 36t. Can I use the 38t from my current single speed or is that too big of a jump?

    Frazer

    frazerbird
    Free Member

    Bump

    JoeG
    Free Member

    If you are adding a bash and keeping your big ring, you will need longer chainring bolts and usually some spacers. Salsa does supply both with their Tooth Fairy Triple. I don’t know about other brands.

    If you are replacing the big ring with the bash, you should be able to reuse the same chainring bolts.

    frazerbird
    Free Member

    Would you say using a 38t would be ok instead of a 36t??

    AD
    Full Member
    Scapegoat
    Full Member

    frazerbird – Member
    Would you say using a 38t would be ok instead of a 36t??

    It’ll be fine. Use a wide spaced cassette. My 2×10 setup is 38/26 over 11-36 cassette.

    Shimano are in the process of bringing out an SLX 2×10 with 38/24.

    _tom_
    Free Member

    Kayak.. sounds similar to that pic someone on here posted a while back, think it was alexxx or one of his friends!

    frazerbird
    Free Member

    frazerbird – Member
    Would you say using a 38t would be ok instead of a 36t??
    It’ll be fine. Use a wide spaced cassette. My 2×10 setup is 38/26 over 11-36 cassette.
    Shimano are in the process of bringing out an SLX 2×10 with 38/24.

    What do you mean by a wide spaced cassette?? Sorry bit new to his :/

    Scapegoat
    Full Member

    Frazerbird,
    I mean a cassette with a wide range. I’d suggest a 11-34 for your setup. Don’t try and think along the lines of smooth transition between front rings, think about deciding which ring you want for the terrain you’re on and a wide range cassette gives you 9 gears to play with. A 38/34 combination will be great for some climbs, and 38/11 will be as fast as most of us mortals want to go off-road. If you’re on really tight/steep climby stuff then 24/11- 24/34 will get you winching up anywhere.

    38/22 is quite a big jump, but you should be able to change rings with a couple of mending shifts

    philfive
    Free Member

    I run 36/26 on my double set up and it’s spot on for 9 speed using an 11-34 rear cassette. I’m sure that shimano don’t recommend a tooth drop of more than 12 on 9 speed. I ran 36/22 and it sometimes bounced off the bottom ring when shifting down or it was difficult shifting up, 36/26 solved this.

    starfanglednutter
    Free Member

    I’d say you’ll get away with 38T. It just means you’ll spend most of your time on the higher end of the cassette than on the lower end. As long as you keep a (small) small chainring, you’ll have everything you need to get up and down – plus you’ll have a bit more speed for the downs. I’d say ideal is 36T – but you could always try it out with the things you have first, before buying a new chainring. Regarding longer bolts, I got mine from Race Face (in steel).

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)

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