Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
  • Backsweep bars and handling rough ground
  • legometeorology
    Free Member

    I’ve been contemplating getting a more trail orientated 29er frame with a shorter back end to replace my Ritchey P29. But really the only thing I want is to be able to get the front wheel up more easily when dealing with rough ground at speed — basically something a little easier to get manualling with.

    So this may be a simple or stupid question, but how do big backsweep bars, like the Salsa bend or something, change how easy it is to get the front end up, if they actually do at all?

    Most of the info I seem to find on big back-sweep bars is about comfort, not handling

    andyl
    Free Member

    I’ve got some 20 deg backsweep 760mm bars on my solaris as it was supposed to be my distance bike…really not sure about them and the solaris has gotten a bit more “fun” orientated now so thinking about swapping them for some more 780mm 9deg sweep bars.

    takisawa2
    Full Member

    Genesis did an 18 deg (I think), backsweep on the Caribou. I found it best with a higher stem & the bars angled slightly down. Like a very, very, very 1973 flared drop bar that’s been down an alley way that was too narrow.
    You could get the front end up ok, but it wasn’t a pleasant experience.

    Cheezpleez
    Full Member

    Jeff Jones does OK on them.

    I have Jones bars on my Swift and On-One OGs on my Stooge, both with high front ends. They manual and tackle tech very well.

    I don’t think I’d put a hugely swept bar on a more conventional modern mtb. For me, the advantages lie in comfort, and the control that comes with it, when riding a rigid bike.

    jameso
    Full Member

    how do big backsweep bars, like the Salsa bend or something, change how easy it is to get the front end up, if they actually do at all?

    Not via grip angle imo but I’m no manual king. Within reason/balance range, the further back towards the rear wheel your hands (and c of G) are the easier to pop the front wheel up. If you get that via more sweep it’ll help, or a shorter stem can do it.

    Most of the info I seem to find on big back-sweep bars is about comfort, not handling

    Fair to say I prefer more sweep on a rigid bike, same bars on a susser feel weird. Some swept bars might compromise handling simply due to being narrower overall but for a given grip width, my hands being at 10 degrees angle (riser) or 90 degrees (H-bar) or somewhere in between isn’t so vital. Pros n cons.

    Salsa 11 degree sweep flat bars felt really good to me on a rigid Bplus-100-120mm 29er.

    nedrapier
    Full Member

    Try a set of on-one OG’s – cheap way in. I think you’ll find they’ll help with manuals, as your hands will be a little further back.

    They take a bit of getting used to and you might find they’re not for you. I like them, and I’ve got a few pair on different bikes. I’m not racing, but I don’t find they hold me back on tech stuff.

    Nestled atop 685mm flat bars:

    ampthill
    Full Member

    From memory on various Mary Bars threads they were thought to be worse for handling and getting the front up

    I have them on both my mountain bikes. They are fine but I wouldn’t see them as a handling up grade

    K
    Full Member

    Sounds like you may need to look at how you are trying to unweight the front. Handlebars are not going to make you be able to manual. Maybe try putting your stem on backwards to see how that messes things up first?

    Learning and practice of the correct body movements are far more important. Get someone who knows to help you out/ use video slow-mo to analyse what shape you are making as you try to manual as apposed to what you think you are doing.

    Cheezpleez
    Full Member

    Obviously technique is critical but If a swept bar puts your hands (and thus your body weight) further back, it will tend to make it easier to lift the front. Just like reversing your stem, only probably less dramatically.

    andreasrhoen
    Free Member

    Some can do perfect bunny hops on ANY bike.

    I’am not. Strangely enough: struggle with 29 inch bikes. Smaller wheel bikes are fine for me.

    First thing where I tweak: stem length

    But – had a bike with a similar bar like:

    https://ritcheylogic.com/wcs-trail-2x-blatte-mountain-bar

    and this bar design was smart. Didn’t help with bunny hops – but was perfect to fine tune the handling of this bike.

    Based on that: small changes make a big difference…
    But 29 inch and bunny hops is something where I struggle with.

    legometeorology
    Free Member

    Thanks, really useful

    Sounds like they aren’t going to solve all my problems. Perhaps some with 15-20deg sweep that shorten the reach a little would help at least a little though.

    Techique… that’s the big question. I’ve never been particularly good at manualling, but I did used to play on the local BMX track a bit and with a little practice could always make it across the biggest doubles on a back wheel.

    At some point I ended up on a Charge Blender — a proper short chainstay play bike — and it all got much easier

    nedrapier
    Full Member

    I’d say if you want to shorten the reach, get a shorter stem. If you want to try swept back bars for comfort or whatever, try swept back bars.

    If you’ve already got a 30mm reach stem, and you still want less reach, maybe you should be looking at a new frame anyway!

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

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