Hint of chain suck on last ride. Chain is at the end of its life, what about these 2? Thanks

[/url]DSC_0965 by aus23, on Flickr[/img]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/qxdTMA]DSC_0965[/url] by aus23, on Flickr

Don’t they say that a cassette will last for three chains?

Meant to be cassette and chainring!

[url=https://flic.kr/p/qPM9L8]DSC_0968[/url] by aus23, on Flickr

“Don’t they say that a cassette will last for three chains?”

dont know who they are – but its certainly not true in any shape on an MTB – maybe on a road bike.

the 5th and 6th sprokets(i think they are) look a bit ropey to me.

but ive never known a cassette cause chainsuck-normally chain slip. – those middleburn rings ive seen chainsuck from new though/

The cassette looks blitzed and the middle urn ring looks like it’s on its last legs too if your unsure try a new chain you’ll soon know if it’s slipping lol

And I though my draivetrain was manky…is that chip oil?

trail_rat – Member

“Don’t they say that a cassette will last for three chains?”

dont know who they are – but its certainly not true in any shape on an MTB – maybe on a road bike.

I’ve always been told that, with the proviso that you don’t allow your chain to ware past a certain point – it’s certainly proved true the last few years.

So you could argue you’re changing chains more often so obviously a cassette will out last 3 of them if you change them every month.

Personally when I start getting suck (which I hate intensely) unless it’s a case where it’s been so shitty out the chain is now lubed only by mud I been the lot. I really hate it.

I hope you never see mine. It’s a bicycle, not a museum exhibit.

All that cack on your drivetrain will accelerate the wear.

Dunno about the cassette but the ring looks pretty worn to me.
I think the >1 chain to a cassette only works if you’re not running them into the ground- you need to swap the chain well before it starts to slip.

And I though my draivetrain was manky…is that chip oil?

Couldn’t have put it better myself. What a horror show.
I change my chains at .5 and expect to get two or three to a cassette, and I’m pretty frequent at cleaning them.

:0 you’re kidding right?

That’s cleaner than my drivechain ever is.

Is that a crack in your chainstay in your last pic?
Chainring looks ****.

That rest cassettes fine, bed a new chain into it once you swapped that front ring cause that’s knackered as well as missing the odd half tooth!
For what it’s worth I thought I was starting to have chain suck issues on my 1×9 at the rear end, turns out it was a gummed up freehub…..so fetch your freehub off give the pawls and springs a clean little bit of light greasing or heavy oil and in conjunction with my suggestions above you may find your issue is solved.

Oh yeah and clean and check the state of your jockey wheels, looking at the rest I bet they’re tired too!

If you’ve worn the chain to the end of it’s life I suspect the whole lot is at the end of it’s life.

I’d call that time to replace the lot and start a fresh.

You CAN get three chains out of it, but not on an MTB, most folk do this…
chain 1 till worn
chain 2 might work, probably not
chain 3 won’t even go on it

So….
For MTB I run three chains, change them over about every 6-8 rides so they are all wearing at sort of the same rate. Works for me, when they all start hitting the wear limit i just ride em till they bust, then replace everything.

thanks all … pics taken after a v muddy ride and had just quickly hosed the bike down – the bike does get ridden regardless of weather 🙂 No cack in chain stay. But will replace chain and chainring and hunt out a better nick cassette!

trail_rat – Member
dont know who they are – but its certainly not true in any shape on an MTB – maybe on a road bike.

“They” are Park Tools, who make a lot of money out of it by selling chain checkers that tell you to chuck perfectly good chains. About third new chain in it will skip on the partly worn cassette so you bin a perfectly good cassette also.

The principle is to keep chain and cassette meshing together, and if they are the same level of wear they’ll go on for ages. If you stick a new chain on then you risk it skipping. Hence the “advice”. Simply don’t put a new chain on until the whole lot is shot, which is way longer in my experience (having been experimenting with this) than chucking three chains and a partly worn cassette.

There’s the risk that the chain snaps, but modern MTB chains are tough, especially KMC chains, and with power/missing links they are easily fixed and will run on and on. So the need to replace with a new chain early is rare.

Though then you might wear down the chainring, but they are longer lasting and if you replace it, a NW ring is unlikely to have issues skipping with an old chain. Can be more of a problem with a double/triple set though.