I have recently upgraded to ultegra di2. Now I thought this was going to be a setup and leave kinda thing but I find myself having to adjust it more than mechanical. Took it out for a very quick spin today to find a ‘springy’ noise when I put the power down. It can almost be likened to a bike that isn’t looked after when the drivetrain is all rusted and shot but mine isn’t has anyone got any advice or tips? Cheers ash

Yep, mine did that. I found that it was worse in some gears than others and only when I stood up and put some effort in.

It’s not the di2 it’s the very small tolerances on 11 speed combined with a non straight mech hanger. You need to get it straightened in a shop and then do the set up again.

Bugger and darnation that’s like the third mech hanger I’ve had to buy! But I don’t know why I’m bending them

mine does it in only one gear on the big ring – i ignore it now 😉

Just because it’s a new hanger doesn’t mean it’s straight. My bike did it from new, local shop straightened it and asks fine. When I bent the hanger and got a new one they had to do it again.

Anyone else any Thoughts?

some bicycle brand mech hangers are too flexy for the force that the servo in the mech uses and the gears go out quite often. cannondale ones are terrible and do it all the time.

Interesting that. I had to replace the hanger on my TCR. Didn’t know how it had gotten bent but that would explain it. I guess they need to be fairly flexy so that they bend before the frame does.

I heard di2 puts a bit more stress on the rear hanger. Get a wheels manufacturing replacement hanger.

That’s extremely interesting. I knew I hadn’t whacked mine and am super careful when transporting it! Gonna get the t checked tomorrow see if it’s ok and get someone to have a look at it!

Get a wheels manufacturing hanger for your frame.

These are CNC machined and dead straight, the oe hangers for pretty much all brands are cast and often twisted even when new.

The wheels hanger is much stiffer but will still snap when needed. To give you an idea of the torque di2 can generate, shimano developed the ‘ hollowform’ chainring used on ultegra and dura ace specifically to provide a more solid upshift for the di2 front mech.

Then reset the rear mech using the adjustment function, you’ve got 16 micro steps each way for fine tuning.

So I’ve tried a few things, adjusted the b screw, had it in the stand I now know 100,,% that the chain is not running the front mech. I also know that it sounds fine in the stand but on the road under load it sounds like a bag of spanners and it’s really bugging me. And ruining my ride. All I want is my bike to ride silently but it sounds terrible.