I’ve had a set for 4 years and they’re really pissing me off.

The font is weak, like, I can barely endo with a 200mm rotor.

I have changed the pads, I have changed the rotor.

I’ve even bled it.

It still sucks, and the lever is a little closer to the bars than the rear, especially when squeezed.

Also, the free stroke is huge, on both to be honest, the levers sit waaay out, at the limit of where I can reach, and yet they only hit the rotor at parallel to the bars, and then compress in from there 🙁 [yes I have adjusted the adjustments as far as possible to counteract it, but if I bring the set-point in the levers will hit the bars!]

Is this normal or should I just admit defeat and take it to a shop to get it bled be a better bleeder than me?

The front rotor I have fitted is an Avid, and I think it’s a slightly slimmer braking surface than the original, which probably doesn’t help.

Anyone fancy selling me a genuine 200mm Magura Rotor cheap?

I don’t know about you, but dodgy brakes are a real killjoy, you don’t feel like you can rely on them, and I often overshoot somewhat because of the inconsistency.

I’m just a bit fed up really, and I don’t fancy sending more money after the bad investment thus far [brakes, bleed kit, pads, rotor]….unless there’s real consensus that there’s just something wrong with the front one. I find it hard to compare the front to the rear as the suspension and weight distribution differences mean the rear might be no more powerful, just doesn’t get the same loads. I can lock the rear wheel easily.

According to the old Bikeradar test of this model it should be one of the more powerful brakes, not far behind Saint, yet my friends Saint Mk1’s have always felt like night and day, solid lever feel, utterly progressive and consistent, three times the power.

Help!

Oh – I’m not very well off, I know I can buy a set of Shimano for about 80, but that would be a waste if they’re not a significant improvement….which kinda makes me look at Saint or Guide or something, which are big bucks 🙁 🙁

My HS33’s were epic – WTAF Magura!

I’ve got 4 sets of Louise BAT’s (2 currently in use).

You have to get the bleeding right but the lever’s solid when it’s done correctly.

I use the 180mm Venti Rotor things on some bikes and they seem to help on long downhills but not really any different just mucking about in the woods.

If you can’t lock the wheel with the lever ‘firm’ and pulled all the way in then I’d assume pad or rotor contamination.

So would I.

Except I’ve changed them both 🙁 [swapped pads from front to rear too, so that’s 3 sets of pads]. Dammit.

You feel the 180 would chuck you over the bars if you wanted? With one finger?

have you checked that both pistons are moving freely? Also trying leaving overnight with rubber bands holding the brake levers in, occasionally tapping and flicking the hose and brake to send any air bubbles up towards the reservoir, then check if the fluid needs topping up.

I run a couple of pairs inc a carbon version.

They have been generally* fault free. I run 160/160 rotors and there is enough stopping power for me and I’m 90kgish.

* I did have an issue with a slightly weepy bleed bolt on a rear which overtime mean some fluid escaped and contaminated the pads. After I realized this was fixed with a little PTFE tape. They are still going strong now.

Hmmmm….Interesting stuff.

I’ll stick a band around the brake and commence flicking the bean hose.

You feel the 180 would chuck you over the bars if you wanted? With one finger?

I only do one finger braking and I always run out of tyre traction before I run out of brake stopping power.

OK – so the assumption is that there’s something wrong with the setup. I’ll try again to fix :/

Thanks.

There’s how to vids on youtube.
You are using the correct fluid? Magura Blood or Citroen LHM?

That’s a good pint ^^^

Magura Blood does/can degrade over time. May be worth flushing through and starting with new fluid

I’ve just bought one of Epics’s bleed kits for some Shimano brakes and the quality of the kit is much better than my Magura branded kit.

For £15 it may be worth a go.

I found with a set of Avid brakes that if the reach adjust is not put back to the lever almost at full extension from the bars prior to bleeding it can mess up the bleed of the brake.

I have/had 3 sets.

No problems with power, only that the BAT feature is pointless and restricts how close you can set your levers to the bars. They have been always too far away for me.

Non BAT levers can be set closer.

I experimented with different length adjuster bolts (discussion on here somewhere) but the limiting factor is the slot in the plastic lever body, not bolt length.

I’ve had two sets of these on two bikes both were weak on the front, no matter how many bleeds they got still spongy, went to slx, what a revelation, they are like night and day, just buy shimano!

hmmmmmmmmmmm

this clears it up :/

Yep, used Royal Blood. It’s been in there two years, but they were shit after the bleed and they’re shit now, LOL.

Success! Superstar Organic pads! Huge improvement!

I’ve yet to find a better brake than my Louise Carbons. I dread to think what I’d do if they went pop. I can’t fault them.