My bog standard Shimano ones have the profile of casino chips, so they need replacing. I have no problem with the Shimano ones, but for the same price I can get some aluminium ones that are

a) brightly coloured

and

b) 2g lighter (per wheel)

Will I die?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Truvelo-Jockey-Wheels-Rear-Derailleur-Pulley-For-SHIMANO-9-10-Speed-SRAM-11T-/201153927129?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item2ed5b557d9

I used a set on an X9 mech after refusing to spend the required amount on some geniune ones.

Worked fine, would buy again.

Bit noisey until the edges worn off, but still going strong. No brainer IMO

Hmm, I have used them (X0 mech) and while they worked fine initially a few issues came to light down the road. On the one hand I don’t think they were quite wide enough and a few times the chain hopped off and got jammed between the gear and the cage. Then after not a lot of use the beaqrings in one of them seized and when I went to remove the alloy inserts that fit either side of the bearing they aere such a tight fit it was impossible to get them out without destroying them. The KCNC ones I have are fine in both these respects and have been OK, even if I have had to replace the bearing in them already.

Noisy and bearings in the ones I bought seized solid after a week. I wouldn’t buy again.

Save your money – the small holes on the edge of the wheel clog up with dirt and attract more dirt. Bearings are very cheap – mine lasted 3 months.

Thanks, I’ll buy the bog standard Shimano ones. I may paint them red though 😉

The alloy ones that I tried (ebay cheapos) were fine right up until the point they failed.
Because they aren’t solid discs, they wore to a point where when one eventually failed, it failed totally.
Rather than skipping or no longer shifting crisply, one just colapsed without warning into a mangled spikey lump of alloy. I’d have been stranded in the mountains if I hadn’t had a spare in my pack.
I’ve only used either BBB ones or Shimano since.

It’s interesting that shifting used to be dependent on a floating top jockey wheel. It’s the main reason accessory jockey wheels down catch on first time around. Oddly, doesn’t seem to be an issue these days.

The huge drill outs are bound to hold dirt, which is bad.

If you can find some without that, and are happy to pre grease the bearings, go for it.

I had some KCNC aluminium ones. They lasted three years but went from being fine and dandy with little apparent wear to totally destroyed in one ride.

No worse or better than nylon ones IME.

Mt Zoom ones are good, and the ultralight ones lasted impressively.

I’ve been using KCNC ones for years and really rate them.

Not had one catastrophically fail, the worst I’ve had is a seized bearing.

The ride where they died turned into a slog through wet sand and mud of epic proportions (65 miles). My mate was having transmission problems on his single speed Krampus so the fact there was anything at all left at the end was a bit of a result I think! The bearings were fine….the teeth had disappeared!

used the hope ones and they are nice but were noisy compared to the shimano ones. the bearings also had float in them for the top one. im assured that this was normal but it meant that you could never get exact chainline when changing both up and down the cassette. back to the shimano ones solved the issue.

Shimano top jockeys NEED float in them to work properly.

Bearing are totally shight in them Chinese things , BBB’s all the way !

thats that i initially thought but the replacement XT ones (while having a little bit of float) dont flop about like the hope ones did. Maybe the hopes were knackered? Shifting is a lot better with less play

You can’t beat Tacx replacement jockey wheels in my experience.

BBB with ceramic bearings were the best replacements I have ever used, much better than the originals.

BBBs ordered.

I’ve always used Tacx with good results

Had a set of the bearings die on me after about 5 rides, never again