Looks like an easy job, but can anyone tell me (or suggest where I can find out):

Do I have to get the wiring done by a spark?
Can I route the extracted air via another vent used by another bathroom (to avoid expense of cutting a new hole in my stone wall – would need one way valves obvs)?

A) yes you should. I did mine last month though.
B) yes you can, the one way valves can be crap though so I would also rely on a good Y shape connection, not a T connector ( if that makes sense).

Also make sure you get the right fan, if it’s a big distance you’ll need a centrifugal jobbie.

Any work in a bathroom is notifiable but your sparky should sort that.

Thanks

A) yes you should. I did mine last month though.

So is it a legal requirement…but you didn’t bother?

So is it a legal requirement…but you didn’t bother?

I didn’t either. They were *ahem* done before I moved in.

1 – Can I route the extracted air via another vent used by another bathroom (to avoid expense of cutting a new hole in my stone wall – would need one way valves obvs)?

2 – yes you can, the one way valves can be crap though so I would also rely on a good Y shape connection, not a T connector ( if that makes sense).

For the same reasons as 1, I did 2. After a few months I realised that the extraction was a bit rubbish and the solution was a compromise so I created a new opening and a separate (much shorter) hose.

And you need to get one of these…

Don’t get the updated one though – apparently they are not as powerful or reliable.

Any work in a bathroom is notifiable but your sparky should sort that

To whom?

My tip: Don’t buy the bits you need off ebay.

also: rules for notification may differ in Scotland.

If you are just simply replacing one wall fan for another, both timer fans (just one that works rather than a the cheap pile of poo the guy before us installed) I’m assuming you are fine to do this yourself?

Looking at swapping a cheap Silvavent for a Silent Tornado.

+1 on one of the bug old Manrose beasties. Ours really does suck it well, and makes almost zero noise. The intake vent wind sound is the noisiest bit…

Yes it is notifiable – mine clearly was fitted last month before I moved in.

Seeing as my attic last month had this for the lights wiring when I started and now has two junction boxes screwed to roof support, labelled, with isolation switch next to it also labelled, and fan mounted alongside, I think it is an improvement.

If you are just simply replacing one wall fan for another, both timer fans (just one that works rather than a the cheap pile of poo the guy before us installed) I’m assuming you are fine to do this yourself?

That is my understanding.

work in the bathroom is notifiable, but what about in the attic above? 😉

Matt have you got an inline fitted into a normal wall or out of the ceiling?

We can only put them in the wall, ideally in the existing hole, as neither bathroom has roof space above.

Matt have you got an inline fitted into a normal wall or out of the ceiling?

Attic mounted, vent in ceiling then out through new vent in eaves.

Thanks. Thats what I thought. From my reading think we have to go old school style.

How do you know which is the older model for the Manrose ones?

Also if you buy one with a timer, can you disable it?

Any fan at all. Though I prefer in line ones myself. Flexible or 4″ ducting into a y fitting of your existing. Can’t disable a timer. Only put it to its lowest.

3core + earth from your light rose or switch. Not to hard a job , just depends on your joists and how the existing wiring is. Your adding 4 more cores. The rose could get a bit packed.

work in the bathroom is notifiable, but what about in the attic above?

The (England and Wales) Building Regs refer to “within a room containing a bath or shower, the space surrounding a bath tap or shower head” and give dimensions for that space. So not everywhere in a bathroom is necessarily notifiable, and if not within the room it’s not.

How do you know which is the older model for the Manrose ones?

Also if you buy one with a timer, can you disable it?
See my above picture – that’s the old style (I have two of them). I *THINK* the timer can be switched off completely. I *KNOW* you can alter the run-on so at the very least you could set the run-on to a minimum time.

I have the manrose – it’s awesome, completely sorted out the mould problem in my bathroom. Don’t buy it from screwfix – that version (there are several) doesn’t have the run on, which is what you want. I got mine from amazon, delivered next day with prime.

Only notifiable if you’re in the bathroom, the attic above isn’t in the bathroom.

https://www.niceic.com/Niceic.com/media/Schemes/NICEIC-Part-P-Updated-Factsheet.pdf

I had a bathroom fan replaced but got a spark to do it, a screwfix one seems ok. Its got an isolation switch outside bathroom so assume thats the regs. Run on time is about 10 mins and works fine.

Thanks all. I understand it has to comply with regs also.

I’ve been here 10 years so “fitted when I moved in” may not work…

Can’t disable a timer. Only put it to its lowest.

You can disable it by wiring it slightly differently so it doesn’t have access to the always live supply, just the switched live. Our bathroom fan was wired up this way for a while, worked fine. Not advisable unless you’re very certain of what you’re doing, though.

(Oh, and that definitely wouldn’t meet regs).

Think I may have a bash at fitting one of these this weekend. Is the newer model in Screwfix that bad? I don’t want the timer function, as the bathroom is only small and next to a bedroom so don’t want it running in the night when someone nips to the toilet.

If you don’t want the run on then the screwfix manrose will be fine. I had great customer service from manrose last year – shoved my finger in the fan and broke a blade (yes i’m an idiot) – contacted manrose and they sent me a new blade unit for free that turned up the next day.

Run on or not, it needs an isolation switch so wired correctly you could switch off the isolation switch on a night.

Interesting, my current extractor just runs when the lights are on, no isolation switch. I was hoping to just swap the old one out and use the existing wiring.

I’d heard if you were replacing something you didn’t need to rewire it up to current standards?

Also isn’t some.of this down to local building standards which vary?

Oh seriously now. Are people ringing up building control to replace a fan? I put my fan switch next to the light switch as our bedroom is next to the bathroom and I’d be really annoyed if it overran for 10 mins after someone nipped for a wee in the night.

Question for those on here who see, to know about these things. How do you check if a sparky has done the ‘notifying’ required?

I’ve just been burned by finding out the boiler flue is the incorrect manufacturer and was fitted incorrectly amd never registered properly (under previous owner apparently it would never have passed a gas safe survey)…just had the consumer unit replaced and would like to check it is following the right procedures

And second question, do you need a special core bit to cut through tiles to fit an inline fan? I have a fully tiled bathroom, and would like to not have to retile just to fit an extractor

How do you check if a sparky has done the ‘notifying’ required?

Depends what body they’re signed up to. For example, this is NICEIC – should be on their paperwork.

http://www.checkmynotification.com/

I’d be really annoyed if it overran for 10 mins after someone nipped for a wee in the night.

Meh it’s not that bad. Can’t hear it from any of my bedrooms 🙂

Beats having to turn it off manually 10 minutes after a shower….or worse still having a mouldy bathroom

And second question, do you need a special core bit to cut through tiles to fit an inline fan? I have a fully tiled bathroom, and would like to not have to retile just to fit an extractor

Depends what they’re made of, and how prone to cracking they are. It is possible, although time-consuming, to drill a series of holes with a standard tile bit around a drawn circle. Most vents have an inch or so overlap so you won’t see it.

Thanks, he is napit so will google for the site to check, unlikely to be there if I haven’t got the paperwork through yet. I might have made a mistake by already transferring the money over for the job. I hope not.

I’ll have you know my bathroom is entirely mould free 😆
Took a bit of regementing with the kids to make sure they used it. Each to their own and works really well for us now.

Fwiw I has a full rewire this time last year during the “pro renovations” and didn’t inform anyone. I also had entirely new Windows and doors and the same applied there. I did have the new boiler fully registered though and fitted by an approved contractor as I needed to to get the 7 year warranty.
I appreciate people on here are perhaps a little wary of doing stuff to their houses but if it’s done properly then it matters not whether it’s notifiable or not in my eyes.
Obviously that opinion doesn’t count for everything such as structural calcs or foundations or fire risks etc but a lot of these threads end up with the advice of ring building control immediately.

I might have made a mistake by already transferring the money over for the job. I hope not.

He should do it within 30 days. I’d be following up after 2 weeks to remind him. You can’t really withhold payment pending that.

If he doesn’t bother to certify the work you can chase it up with NAPIT as well.

Thanks for the advice martinhutch.

And I kind of agree wrightson, I provided labour for the sparky to save money, and am perfectly capable of wiring circuits up and stuff, but my concerns are around home insurance and when we look to sell on. No matter how good a job I do I’m not classified as a competent person.

there getting it done by a competent person and getting it done by a competent person on the cheap. if they give you a price and say its too much, expect the lower offer to execute it correctly but maybe not as neat and tidy.

Sorry for bumping an old thread.

What’s the maximum run I can have from the fan to the bathroom? I need about 2-3 metres. Would that be ok? It would be a lot shorter from the fan to the outside wall to vent (0.5 metres)