Our current electric oven needs replacing and dates from 2007, manual long lost.

It says on the unit 230v 50hz 2560w. If I find a oven with the same figures will it be fine just to swap over?

Current one I’m looking at says total load rating of 1.9kw. Presume this will be okay as less that the 2560w?

Suppliers offer fitting but won’t change any of the electrics and recommend getting another electrician in to advise (well if I did this I may as well get them to fit it…)

If the electrics need changing is this something that can be done easily? It’s a built in unit wired into the wall under the hob.

They are pretty simple to swap over. Worst case scenario is buying some flex to wire from the switch to the oven if the one you have now is fitted and the one that arrives doesn’t have any. Obviously make sure you isolate all electrics before touching any of it and test it before touching it.

I’m happy to pay for the installation, I just don’t know if I’m buying an oven with the right ‘ampage’ if that is the right term?

Managed to find the manual on line and it said the old oven needed to have a 13amp plug if that helps…is it just the case of changing the fuse if the ampage is different? Or is it proper rewiring / expensive?

so does the old oven plug into a socket on the ring main? in which case you need a new one that is also doing that and obviolsy 13amp is your max

Otherwise the oven may be on its own circuit from your consumer unit, find the circuit and check the rating of the breaker. If its like that then its probably on a 32Amp breaker and you can fit a much bigger appliance, that will be wired in, not just plugged in.

Anything under 3kW should be fine. If it comes fitted with a plug then it will be under that and will be fine. It’ll just wire or plug into the same circuit with no modifications. Very simple.

It’s wired in under the hob so no plug, with a isolater switch if that is the right term (red on off thing with light) to the side. It was fitted in 2007 so electrics shouldn’t be too old.

How would I check the rating if a breaker?

Installation is only £85 but they said they would only do it if the electrics were correct, otherwise they just leave me with the uninstalled oven, and presumably don’t refund either.

Separate cooker circuits can be 30A or more but if your new cooker comes fitted with a plug then as above it simply needs plugging in to a socket. Failing this cut the plug off and wire in to your existing isolater the same as your old cooker

An electric heater or even a kettle is 3kW so no concerns in terms of loading

It should be just as simple as disconnecting the old one and connecting the new one. If its not a plug in type then it’ll be three screws and a cable clamp. I’d certainly do it myself rather than pay £85.

As everyone says, srndard size ovens are under 3Kw and fine plugging in, or wiring in, to the ring main. Your existing one is wired in to a switch, does that switch have a little slot or drawer type thing for a fuse, in which case its a simple fused spur, or is it a specific cooker one which probably says ‘cooker’ on it and is rated higher?

Do you know where your consumer unit/fuse box for the house is? are the fuses labelled? if not, do you know which fuse it lights, ring main etc? if not then work it out by removing a fuse at a time and seeing what no longer works around the house. Its common practice to split the sockets in a house in to 2 or even 3 (kitchen, upstairs, downstairs, or kitchen, front half, back half), lights are one or better 2 (up and down stairs), oven on its own circuit is good but not essential for 3kw and under ovens, HW immersion heater will be on its own circuit, and then outbuildings should be on there own circuit.

its sounds to me that your not have an issue with the wiring, but you do need to work out which circuit to isolate before removing the old oven and installing the new….or you may find your hair stands on end and starts smoking

I’d be double safe and pull the main switch. But still check before you touch anything.

If you are going to fit a cooker yourself using hard wiring, please do not automatically presume that the isolator switch kills electricity to the terminals behind the face plate, use a “magic screwdriver” (that you 100% know works) to ensure the terminals are safe to touch.

I saw some shocking (ba dum tish!) wiring where isolators did nothing, during the few years I connected re-cycled electric cookers/ovens. Without the screwdriver warning me and turning off the whole fuse board, I would not be around today.

It has a special switch with ‘cooker’ on it, so sounds like a separate circuit but I’d turn off on the main fuse box anyway to be sure.

It appears that fitting is literally 6 screws and 3 wires. Starting to wonder about saving myself the £85 fitting costs….