I accidentally on purpose bought some DI2 today, eBay used but very cheap. It’s Dura Ace 10sp and I’ve got front and rear mechs, battery, charger, shifters, climbing shifter, a new cassette and a wiring loom, junctions boxes and the wire insertion tool.

It’s to go on a 2011 Trek Madone 5.5, which has a battery mount point under the BB and internally routing for the wires. Currently running SRAM Force and would prefer to keep the brake calipers and cranks (compact).

I want to make sure I can take my bike to bits and put it back together without any ‘oh balls’ moments that’ll leave me without a bike to ride while I order x, y and z.

I know I need new front chain rings, a new chain and bar tape, but is there anything else I need to think about?

I’m not sure whether the wiring loom is internal or external, so I might need to replace that, does anyone know how likely it is that I can fit an external loom into my frame? Can external be converted to internal by removing shrinkwrap at all?

Any compatibility issues with my brakes or the compact cranks? Leverage ratios etc for the brakes?

Not fiddled with DI2 before, so not sure what I need to be aware of, so any hints and tips gratefully received!

Thanks!

Its very simple to set up, just plug and play to be honest. If I can do it, anyone can. Make sure you use the connector spanner to disconnect with wires, if you need to.
Just wait for the non di2 users to come here and shout about battery charging and going flat on a ride soon 🙄

How much did it cost you? I have no advice to give but after looking after a bike with di2 for a couple of weeks I’m di2 curious.

It’s frustrating – all my cycling prejudices are being challenged – di2 and fatbikes don’t seem as stupid as they used to!

Why new front rings ?
Just go for it , what can go wrong ?
Surely you have a spare bike for those oh dear this is not working moments ..

Battery mount and little bits like that is what usually gets forgotten

New front rings because I’ve changed nothing on the bike since I got it and they are worn, cassette and chain is the same. They shift OK as a set, a few more miles in them, but changing the cassette means new chain, means new rings. Not linked to the DI2 as such though. I suppose I could leave the new cassette off to begin with and properly wear out the stuff I have. Would be interesting to see if the DI2 improves the shifting of the worn kit.

It was £375, but may work out a bit more as the chap has had issues with the rear mech freezing occasionally, so that may need replacing. I’m hoping I get away with that, but we’ll see.

I’ve just been out to look at the bike, rear tyre is flat and yesterday’s ride has got the rear tyre down to the canvas. Literally haven’t changed a single thing on it since I got it early 2012, must have about 5000 miles on everything now. I actually have replacement gear cables to fit that were sent a few weeks after I got it because the factory didn’t leave a long enough rear mech loop for the SRAM mech. Looks like it’ll never get fitted now!

Anyway, all of the internal cable entrances and exits are large, with rigid gromits, so should be pretty easy to get everything inside. The battery mount was included and the frame is designed for it to hang off the underside of the bottom bracket, so I’m sorted for battery mounting. There’s actually a large bit of plastic that is the cable guide for the current gear setup, one bolt and that whole thing drops out to give good access to everything, so it all looks very simple!

And yes, I have a few spare bikes, I’ve just been enjoying riding the hills out the back door recently though. Mountain bikes means driving and the cyclocross bike means railway lines, which are fairly flat. Want to avoid losing the bike if I can, but can cope if I miss something.

I’ve just fitted Dura-Ace Di2 to my wifes 2012 Trek Madone 6.7 SSL.

The frame conversion kit was £23 from JE James & came with all the gromits for blanking off & converting the frame as well as the battery mount.

The internal loom is covered in cable ties to make sure the cables don’t rattle in the frame.

Installation is very simple & I used a combination of the Trek conversion guide & the Park Tool guide – both easy to follow but some good tips so would defo use.

If you drop me an email I’ll attach them to the return or just do some googling.

That’s really useful, I didn’t realise I needed a kit to fit the battery! £10 on JE James, just ordered.

I ordered both the £10 & £23 kit but didn’t use the £10 kit, all the bits needed were in the £23 kit. The £10 didn’t appear compatable.

Just ordered the £23 kit. Dammit!

As a word of warning, 10 speed Dura Ace used a different wiring system to all other Di2 groups and the new stuff isn’t backwards compatible.

as above, Dura ace 7970 is non etube.

Also the 7970 Di2 derailleurs and shifters are no longer being manufactured and are getting harder or next to impossble to source. Unless you buy used.

As above, No spare rear mechs available